W110 Heckflosse Project (1966 200) - Page 9 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #81 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Jun 2010
Vehicle: 1966 MB 200; Porsche 914 (6); Porsche 914 (Chev 350); 36 ford
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
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Status update.

Found the problem. One of the injector drives was dead. Car ran, but poorly. One output drove cylinders 1 & 3, and the other was the second output. I rewired it to run from the one output and it's running much better and the wb o2 reads in the correct range now.

Now, I can work on getting it tuned. Should make much better progress now. I drove it quite a bit and its very fun now.

-- brett
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post #82 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 05:53 PM
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Hi, Just picked up on this. I applaud the use of the later engine!. I was thinking of sticking one in a 190SL (W121) but the price of those has gone insane . Did you get your wheels sorted?
The correct offset is ET23 on all of the W110 through to 109 Chassis cars ,such as yours. Those wheels you were trying to fit looked like ET 11 which would never work.
How are your brakes?
When ever I do a V8 conversion I insist the owner fits a later W108 diff (preferably a 3.5 V8 type) and the larger discs from a 3.5. This gives great braking, after all you can make a Benz go faster but just try stopping one with Drum rears and little discs up front.
In todays traffic most modern cars have brilliant brakes and if some clown jambs on the anchors in front of you,you need to be able to pull up easily.
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post #83 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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MercMad6.3,

Thanks for kind comments.

Maybe you can offer some advice.. I always get confused with offset...

I found wheels from ET37 to ET41. One is from the CLK320 (1999) and the other from a E320. These are better as they are 16x7 and 15x6 which I think would have a better change of fitting.

And I agree about the brakes. I could not find enough information about updating the brakes, so, I went with EBC green pads for the stock front brakes.

By the way, I am getting about 160 hp from the C230 engine, and it's lighter than the original 4. I am guessing 0-60 in about 8.5 seconds or so. I need to get this on a dyno after I get some more tuning done.

I will have to look at the W108 brakes if I can find and check fitment.

thanks for the input!

-- brett

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post #84 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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More EFI details

So, I found the bad output from the ECU. So, I decided to create a new harness for the EFI with the ability to easily go back to 2 outputs and for now it's wired to one output.

So, I used new EV-1 connectors from DIYAUTOTUNE.com, and their labeled wires. (I like using color coded wires and these have printed labels on the wires. One is INJ-1 and other is INJ-2.) If someone else has to debug, this will make it easier to understand. (When I do wiring, I create strong mechanical connection first, usually by crimping, then I solder the joint to insure a good electrical connection. Call me anal. )

So, here's the schematic, and it's quite simple. Just wanted complete documentation, as this is one of many pages of the schematics needed to get the C230 motor to work. And finally a picture of the harness as it is today. I need to do some work on it by adding a sheath, but this photo you can see the wiring easily.

I spent quite a bit of time today getting the idle smooth, and the off idle settings correct. It idles very nice right now, and I still need to drive it around and work on those settings. Yesterday, I used the autotune feature of tunerstudio, and was not happy with the results.

Good news, I can drive it now, if I want to. I need to work on the suspension to drive it a lot, as the shocks are all shot. I was thinking of going with aftermarket coil-overs, but I really want to drive it now, so, stock replacement shocks for now.

Anyone know of upgraded springs that will fit? I want to lower the car about 1 to 2 inches in front and back and a little (and I mean a little) bit stiffer spring rate. If I can't find anything, I will take the springs out and measure them and call eibach to see if they have something that will fit.

-- brett
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post #85 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-19-2014, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Replaced the shocks so I could drive the car and get the tuning done. About 1 hours work to replace the front shocks. A lot of time was spent cleaning the area as it was a mess. One of the shocks had horrible movement, sticking and inconsistent dampening. And one of the mounting studs was broken even before i put a wrench on it! And the shocks look ancient.. See picture. Should handle and ride better now. Still need to do the rear shocks, but that will be a snap. (Famous last words???)
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post #86 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-19-2014, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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After getting the shocks in, I spent some time getting the tune working. Have a lot of areas still running too lean. Here's a log of where I am at now. I would drive, and find areas where there was bucking or obvious lean conditions. I would pull over and adjust the bins. Back on the road and do it again. Very time consuming. I need to get a buddy to ride with me and adjust as I change conditions. After that, I will eventually have some time done on the dyno, as the timing tables need to be adjusted.

I have done this before, but I find I still have a lot to learn about tuning. My other MS project was just fuel and was a little more straight forward.

But, the car drives great! Decent power even without it being tuned well yet. I was real careful and kept the load and RPM down.

Fun, fun, fun!

-- brett
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post #87 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 03:00 AM
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Thumbs up Heckflosse Project

I'm enjoying reading your work here.....
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-Nate
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post #88 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the support guys! When I get it a little closer, it will be video time.
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post #89 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 10:59 PM
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Thumbs up 'Photos & Videos

You needn't wait until it's finished , true enthusiasts will love it as it is now .

.
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post #90 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-21-2014, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Nate.

I am not sure if I will have time this weekend, but if I do, I will make a short video of a walk around, and a running/driving segment. Idle is a little high, and I believe this is the IAC that is causing it. Driveable, just a little annoying at the moment.

-- brett
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