spring compresor tool--can someone confirm please - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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spring compresor tool--can someone confirm please

i'm looking to do some front end and rear suspesnion work. one of the items i want to do is replace the springs to give the car a little lower stance. My springs in the car are ok--and that rules torching/cutting them out of the question. I wont torch them because if my lowering springs suck, then i want to be able to revert back to stock.

Since i wil be doing this at work, i have a rack to work off of. This lends well to the inside compressor. yet i need something i can trust. i see this style spring compressor all over e-bay--

yet can anyone confirm this will work on a w108 and how is the product made? All the e-bay adds i read claim it fits a bunch of models from the 107 up to newer. no mention of a 108 and honestly i dont know mercedes parts interchange enough to know if it fits this chassis, then it will fit this one too.

No one in the garage i work at now has an internal style compressor- not even the actual shop equipment. Everyone does the floor jack method. im not a fan of the jack under the control arm. When i first started out working as a tech around 10 yrs ago , i saw 1st hand what happens when a spring lets loose from a jag xjs. It didnt kill anyone, but it put a hell of a dent in a snap-on roll cab. Even though i have replaced similar style coil springs w/ the jack method since that happened, i rather have the proper tool. besides, i have a feeling i will be doing a lot of trial and error with springs to get the desired stance/performance i want. i have 40 more years until i can retire, i will get my moneys worth from it.



Last edited by mtkst19; 08-13-2010 at 01:43 AM.
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010, 02:30 AM
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That generic KLAN style spring compressor works for W116, W124 and W126 chassis's only.

It will not work on a W108, W109, W11, W111, W112 or W113. The factory method is to use long bolts and while supporting the inside lower A arm joint with a floor jack, replace one by one the regular bolts with the longer ones and then unload the lower A-Arm with the jack. The spring will decompress and than the long bolts are removed and the spring removed.

You can also support the outer end of the lower control arm, remove the hub and caliper from the kingpin , remove the upper outer bolt, and unload the jack. You can then carefully let the spring extend and let it drop out. Be careful, spring under compression store a lot of energy and can fly out and kill you.

If you do use an alignment rack, you can use the moveable supports and support the LCA on the inside. (whatever they are called)

You may find that you need the upper outer alignment bolt kit because it's welded together. The band style seals may also need to be replaced. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease with a hand operated gun with a long flexible hose.

Please check the Pagoda W112 group for more advice. Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes

I don't have my long bolts, they are in use by my friend GGR/Gael.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010, 07:27 AM
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interested to see your progress and pics of the new stance. pls keep us posted
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