eureka moment w108 window regulators - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 03:30 AM Thread Starter
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eureka moment w108 window regulators

I stumbled into something of note tonight while replacing my regulators. Im sure sometime in the 40+ yrs of this car being around someone had to have done what im about to explain. However, in case this is the first then damn. i dunno-- feel free to send me tons of money in royalty fees???

my front windows never rolled up 100% since i owned the car. it would go up about an inch from the top then die. Being that was the only problem and new or used regulators are pricey i can deal with it.

fast forward some time, and the rigors of daily use and people who cant let off the damn button when it is at the "stop" position finally killed the regulators. Only way to go up or down was to "pray" with your hands on the glass and help it. Thus my cheap ass needed to fix them. I sourced two used regulators to do the job.

When i pulled the old regulators the teeth were stripped out only 1/4 to 1/2 on the "inside" portion. the outside part of the teeth looked brand new.

this got me thinking-- why not space out the window motor gear so it makes a more even contact over a wider portion of the regulator body. say 1/2 to even full contact. so off came the electric motors on the "new" used regulators.

2 screw drivers and i was able to pry the gear off the window regulator motor. i used a washer to space out the gear on the shaft of the motor. reinstalled the press fit gear onto the motor and reassembled the regulator assembly.

with a little bit of grease, i was able to see the lash between the two teethed sections similar to doing a ring and pinion on a rear end. seems to me that i have better engagement than just tossing it in as is.

now hopefully i get another 40 yrs out of this set.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 08:20 AM
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Good on you! I was planning to replace a burnt out motor in the left rear of mine, but after pulling it apart and cleaning up gunk and rust, the motor still worked.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 09:36 AM
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mtkst19, Early of late versions?

The new systems with torque sensing stops are good, but these are first generation power windows.

I'll second the thought regarding those who think extra button time will close better, I inform everyone to not hear the motor strain. Leave a gap of a finger width. and never run it totally down I want to see the window top.

My experience is that there two types, early all steel, late diecast / steel. two motor types, wiring types.

The die cast version will bend over time and not be able to be straightened, try it and the cast structure will break, especially the tab which is on the "back "side of the structure.
The early steel types can be straightened, I've thought about welding and grinding the teeth back, but now only have the late version W108, W109 cars

Has anyone thought about reverse engineering and reproducing the die cast frame?

Keep them working

Brian O
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-23-2010, 03:44 PM
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Great idea, thanks for sharing!

I have a 280se with the two-wire window regulators, and the drivers side door has stripped gears (and is slightly bent, possibly the reason why the gears stripped). Long story short, I bought a replacement regulator but it ended up being the three-wire version.

From here there are two paths forward.

1) Rewire the three-wire regulator to fit my two-wire car
2) Take the regulators apart and fit the not-stripped out gear from the three-wire onto the two-wire regulator, then reinstall the two-wire regulator with the new gear back in the car.

What would you guys suggest? Of course option 3 is buying another 2-wire regulator and selling the three-wire one (I hear they are rare) but I would rather get this done quickly without buying more things.

Thanks for your help!
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-30-2010, 08:40 AM
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100 year motor

I had the same experience not to long ago. At first I suspected the motor but after researching the motors MB used in these cars I found out they were designed to last 100 years! The small metal gear on the end of the motor drive shaft was rounded off. I took it off and turned it around and it made fresh contact again.
Now, if the switches would have been designed the same. at $75 bucks for the front control switch that’s a pain.
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