BenzWorld Senior Member
Date registered: May 2007
Vehicle: 64' 220SEc, 72' 300SEL 6.3, lots of parts
Location: San Diego/Spring Valley
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There are electrical and mechanical tests.
If you know an ohmmeter, do this...... aaaaa
Nah,,, just do the physical first, and remember ALL electrical has a mechanical component for circuit flow.
And it doesn't hurt to check the parts (since they are so expensive) and built so good and have not been looked at or lubed for 38 years. (Think of that, compared to today's cars)
If you just want to stay mechanical,
remove trigger assembly, Two flat head screws, removed best after you remove distributor from motor, check for wear, dry cam, corrosion, rubbing blocks dust, oil in chamber and on points, 600grit wetordrypaper the points, clean with carb spray, re-lube cam, etc. by now you are seriously into the distributor, which by the way IS an analog mechanical computer .
Then do the electrical check.
The points are just on-off binary switches with a specific angular timing on-off corresponding to angle of rotation of the "Mechanical Components"
Blah, blah blah.........
Geeze, I hate doing lectures, do you guys already know this stuff?
Been doin this too long.
Pop that rebuilt distributor in and go.
I just did this to my bud's 73 450SLC along and with a new water pump.
Rebuilt it or pay me to, I'll show you if you bring beer.