1965 220 coupe - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-26-2010, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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1965 220 coupe

this my 1965 220 coupe.
Lately after i start it and let it warm up a bit, it runs good but after 3 or 4 miles when I stop in astop sign or light signal, the car stalls, I put it in park and start it again it will start but soons i put it in gear, it will die. any suggestion.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-27-2010, 06:35 AM
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i would check the fuel filter first...
how old is the gas???
is the fuel pump "singing" nicely??? or is it under duress like the fuel filter MIGHT be plugged or restricted with particulates / watery sludgey gunky old petrol???
where did you buy your last tank of gas??? was it "discount" gas???
some discount gas has water in it, is old and is NOT good for your car...
also, a rare and unusual mention: make certain no one has added an accessory "load" to the positive side of your ignition coil by installing a radio / alarm / tv / dvd, etc unit... SOME installers "hard" wire to the positive side of the coil and this will cause a "discharge" of the positive field (SPARK) to your distributor... i doubt this is the case with your car, as it starts again straight away = IF the coil is "over-loaded with an accessory, when the positive field "charge" is depleted, it usually takes 20 - 45 minutes for the car to be able to start and run again...

ps: stinkin' beauty of a car ya got there mate!!!
how long have you had it???
i'd be a buyer for one like that...

peace
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-27-2010, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks

Thanks, is not discount gas, but I put 89 octane in it, I thought will be better for the car, it was doing it before with the 91 but not that fast, i used to travel maybe 20 or 25 miles before start stalling, that the reason went to 89.
I will check the pump and coil, there is a extra connection to the radio to hookup an ipod.
i had the car for about 9 month< i take it out maybe once a month. but spring is coming and i want to drive it more in the weekends.
thanks
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-28-2010, 09:44 PM
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Nice looking coupe. It sounds fuel related to me also, check filter and pump as said above. Later.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 07:51 AM
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i would drain the gas tank completely...
then fill FULL with premium petrol & 1 bottle of LUCAS fuel injector cleaner (WONDERFUL STUFF!!! - Autozone has it) and 1 bottle of HEET which will evaporate any water build up in the tank which occurs if you store the car with NOT FULL tanks of gas often --- condensation (water droplets - sometimes LOTS of them) collects inside the tank naturally from heating and cooling and storage alone...
and i would definitely change out the fuel filter when i drain the tank...
best wishes,
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 07:14 PM
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What you describe is a typical MFI problem.
but First. USE as High an octane fuel as you can find. Why? because the injection runs at 200PSI at the injectors and modern fuel ,especially lower octane fuel is too volatile and you get vapor lock and low performance.

Always use ATF in the fuel tank and NOTHING else!. Auto trans fluid added to the tank at a level of 1 liter per 100 liters of fuel will clean the system and lubricate the pump . It will help slow the combustion so the engine can run on our crappy fuel we are forced to buy these days.

Now to the problem at hand.

The engine speed when in gear is regulated by a solenoid on the accelerator linkage.
Have someone sit in the drivers seat and with the engine running,the hand brake on ,and their foot on the brake,Put it in gear.
When they do this,watch the accelerator linkage. it should move approximately 10 mm.
Next, get your assistant to touch the accelerator pedal.
Note; Just TOUCH it with their foot. The Solenoid on the linkage should move back again. releasing the pedal should once again make the solenoid move.
Now... if the solenoid is not moving, check all your fuses,Number 6 is the fuse you need to make sure has a good connection as the solenoid is connected through this.

The next step involves making sure the kick down solenoid on top of the trans is working.
With the engine OFF and the ignition ON, touch the accelerator slightly,you should hear a definite click from under the car,that is the two solenoid telling the trans that car is in gear and about to move,releasing the accelerator should make it click again as the solenoid moves to the central position.
Now push the accelerator to the kick down position,it should click as the solenoid moves in the opposite direction,opening the kick down valve in the trans modulator.
if it is not doing any of these things,you have (i) a blown fuse,
(ii) a stuck solenoid or (iii) the switch on the throttle body is faulty or not adjusted correctly. (iv) there is also a switch on the rear of the accelerator pedals on earlier models ,these cars do not have the switch on the intake.

It is vitally important that all of the linkages are in 1st class condition with zero slop anywhere. Before you even think of touching the Fuel injection you make 100% sure the ignition is perfect . Then replace all the worn linkage parts.
Only then should think about the injection,it's a good system and one used by porsche right into the 1980's on their racing cars but most faults i find are caused by those playing with them .
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I will try the suggestions and I will keep you informed. succeful or not, really thanx guys.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-29-2013, 01:08 PM
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update ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by imed View Post
Thanks guys, I will try the suggestions and I will keep you informed. succeful or not, really thanx guys.
We're still waiting for the update.
I would think you've done anything in 3 years ?
Also, where are you ?
Fill in details, please, so we know more about you.
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