W111-109-108-113 Mods - Page 9 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #81 of 162 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 04:06 PM
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Date registered: Apr 2010
Vehicle: w109 6.3 race car,w108 3.5
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ZF gearbox to m100 6.3 race car

Hi...

Any one know of a bell housing available for the big ZF 5 speed and the M100 6.3...

can the auto box bellhousing be used and modified or is there a better bell housing to modify??

found this foto of headers being made in my foto file
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post #82 of 162 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Apr 2009
Vehicle: Mercedes 280 SE 3.5 coupe, pagoda 230 SL '64, 500 E W124, CE 220 Cabrio, E 320 T W211, w126 6.0 AMG
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Clutch

Mercedes did them for the project cars and plant racers (afterwrds used by AMG--ex-Mercedes). But I don't think you will be lucky to find them 8I think they were destroy by Matra Aircrafts FRA after the 6.8 was not longer used for the tests.
Proably the easiest way would be to use the automatic bellhousing, which fits perfect in fron, have space enough for the Alu-Flywheel and aplicate a plate at the correct distance from the end. Like the fotos I posted with the 3.5 bellhousing.
Which cluch to use and the leverage for the slave-cylinder you have to decide too. alternativly open a little window in bottom on the 6.3 bellhousing and using a idraulic bearing?

Pagodino
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post #83 of 162 (permalink) Old 11-04-2010, 01:22 PM
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Hi, can anyone give me more information about putting a W124 rear axle under a W111 coupe?

Btw, i got one manual shipfting kit for M100 cars for sale. It's a Tremec Tko600 Gearbox with all the parts needed from big-toys(Franz). Parts are located in Germany and Australia. Anyone interested, please feel free to send me a PM.
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post #84 of 162 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benni111 View Post
Hi, can anyone give me more information about putting a W124 rear axle under a W111 coupe?
I'm considering the same thing - any info out there?

Ta

Dweezil
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post #85 of 162 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Apr 2009
Vehicle: Mercedes 280 SE 3.5 coupe, pagoda 230 SL '64, 500 E W124, CE 220 Cabrio, E 320 T W211, w126 6.0 AMG
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W124 axle

First there is no real difference to chose W124-W210-W201 axle all have there own supports to fix up. For the transplant i would use (I saw something hom made before) original Mercedes sheatmetal panels. The rear crossmeber you can buy direkt from your part seller, the front supports I would get out of the donor car. The weight of the W124 and W11 are similar, so the axle came in the same position like it was in the donor car on the street. You have to meshure the center of the axle to street at the wheel and Diff so you can calculate the perfekt position of the axle in your W111. After that you have to take the axle under your car and let the rear end down. The rear and front support fixed on the axle. Now you will see where and how much you have to take away (rear) an to add (front). next you have to check correct position of the axle. Befor welding (only few spots) in completly get on a bench for mesurement.

Pagodino
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post #86 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-17-2011, 12:09 PM
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'62 Mercedes 220SE Coupe 5.0 (videos)

Hi all,

I’ve been doing some good progress on the car and though there is still some work needed it is back as my daily driver.

Yesterday a friend came and shot some videos with his I-phone. In the three first links I'm explaining what I did on the car and on the three last I'm driving it. The last one is a 0-100mph video. I did not go crazy on the clutch or in the shifts as all this is still a bit new and I don't want to grenade anything. But basically I shift in 2nd at 40mph, in third a 60mph (7s) and third is taking us up to 100mph (17s). I guess I will do better when the car is finished tuning and when I'm more confident with the transmission to shift harsher. I forgot to mention in the video that the engine has been fitted with AMG replica camshafts and solid lifters.

Here you go:

YouTube - ‪stricht8's Channel‬‏

YouTube - ‪stricht8's Channel‬‏

YouTube - ‪stricht8's Channel‬‏

YouTube - ‪stricht8's Channel‬‏

YouTube - ‪stricht8's Channel‬‏

YouTube - ‪stricht8's Channel‬‏
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post #87 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-17-2011, 05:02 PM
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nice videos!
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post #88 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-18-2011, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Vehicle: Mercedes 280 SE 3.5 coupe, pagoda 230 SL '64, 500 E W124, CE 220 Cabrio, E 320 T W211, w126 6.0 AMG
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Mods and more

I am very pleased to see your progress. I had less time than expected for working reasons so my project is not finished yet. But your success me gave power to proceed. As I had the experience with the new MSIII in the alfa 75 turbo 2.0 twin spark, this EFI i much better than the old MSII, so I decieded to use iy too. At the moment you are going sequential or semisequential. I made a double trigger (two cam triggers of an Alfa-bosch 32x2 and 1x2 for the half rotation speed) in the distributor. First I wanted to use the original cables but I think I will use a new one. If i remember you wanted to use the original one, at th end you did? You've seen any difference with the high shore center and PU supports? I hope that my set-up with the air-susp rear without centerspring but stabilizer and antidive will work as It shloud. I had to see If I had to change the origninal springs or if it is good like this. At front I had the 6.3 parts (spacer reduced to 10mm) and original 6,3 leaf-spring. All is hear but not mutch time.
Some pick, as you see DB 728, a colour wich changes on incidence of light, form under you see the rain-sunroof-drain tube in the outer-wing and the antidive and stabilizer -fixing points. In middle how it has to become (mechatronik).

Best Pagodino
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Last edited by pagodino; 06-18-2011 at 02:05 PM.
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post #89 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-18-2011, 06:33 PM
GGR
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I'm going batch injection for now (1-5-4-8 + 6-3-7-2) but I have set the wiring for fully sequential in case I want to upgrade one day.

I did re-do all the wiring because mine had become all brittle. The injector and TPS plugs were different anyway and there is no need to wire for the trigger points or the cold start valve. If I were you I would route the trigger signals in a different loom than the rest as you don't want to have noise in the signals of the other sensors. My ignition loom is completely separate and is routed separately.

I'm happy with the PU bushings. But the harder shore center mount is higher and as a result the center arm sits also higher. The consequence is more positive camber. I had to modify the right center spring mount and have it sit more to the right to correct this. You may not have that problem with the hydro compensating spring as it is adjustable.

Good luck with your project, paint looks stunning!

Last edited by GGR; 06-18-2011 at 06:44 PM.
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post #90 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-29-2011, 05:42 AM
GGR
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Hi Pagodino, I re-read your previous post. Are you planning to go without compensating spring in the center? If yes is this because you think it will interfere with the stabilizer bar? If yes, you will need to fit harder springs otherwise the car is going to sag. I'm sure you've already seen 108s with shot hydro compensators they just drag on the floor.

Also, did you relocate your parking brake cables stop brackets on your chassis? Cables are shorter on air suspension cars and they can't br switched with the stadard ones.

How far are you with your project? On my side I started a new discussion about my future Pagoda 5.6 manual trans project here: Pagoda 5.6L manual trans project Feel free to chime in!

Last edited by GGR; 10-29-2011 at 05:45 AM.
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