V8 swap into I6 280SE W108 - Page 6 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #51 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 04:31 PM
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Concerning the value of a car after the engine is changed; as I recall the Kelly Blue Book, at one time, added value to the Toyota Landcruiser and the CJ 5 Jeep if a Chevrolet engine was installed. At that time, before smog issues, I installed quite a few Chev engines in those 4x4's. However, I must admit that I did devalue an Austin Healy 100-4 when I installed a Nail Head Buick 401 engine. Not the wisest move I admit but the Buick engine weighed less and had more power than the original tractor engine. The car was a POS anyway so we decided to have some fun. In another case I butchered in a Ford 289 into a ragidy '62 Jag XKE. The local Jag club banished me for life. I suspect they were jealous.


Perhaps there are some folks who are just jealous of your talents.

If it's not broke it dosen't have enough features.
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post #52 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 04:39 PM
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To me this seems to be a thread celebrating nice & cool engine swaps and mods alike... instead of ranting why not share with us your accomplishment. It does sound appealing after all, everyone has their own subjective opinion anyway. Show pics of your project, I'm impressed too!
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post #53 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 04:57 PM
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Yes Cadurning I hear what you are saying with the value of cars dropping after swapping. Intersesting about the Landcruiser. Here in Oz its a commonm conversion putting the V8 chev diesel into them. If I had the cash I would have just restored my Merc but Im always up for a challenge and given the availability and price of chev and jag parts I used them inm my build. Maybe there are some people on here that are jealous......
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post #54 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 05:02 PM
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You can see heaps of pics and lots of writeups on my build and the journey at




You can also subscribe to updates so that you get an email whenever I update the site. There's around 200 pics on there.

Im doing a twin turbo 350 chevy into my 108
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post #55 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by gwunta View Post
Im just sick of people telling me that things cant be done when they clearly havent put in the necessary research before pushing their so called "wisdom" onto everyone else. I researched my project for 6 months before I even started removing a single bolt from my car. Its just really frustrating that people can tear up someone else's project when they have no idea themselves.

No, Im not psychotic, no Im not trying to advertise my own business, I dont own one or run one, Im just trying to point out that people should be careful of what they write/publish/talk about without knowing the full story. It actually didnt come out of right field, if you readt the first few posts of this thread you will understand.
I don't believe anyone here told you anything to provoke a disrespectful tone. This is a friendly little forum, which discourages belligerence. Please try to keep it friendly.

"If spending money you don't have is the height of stupidity, borrowing money to give it away is the height of insanity." -- anon
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post #56 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 07:00 PM
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Hi Gwunta, good to see you are still doing stuff after disappearing from Ozbenz. I presume you are referring to my comment about your comment. I don't really care about sending links to various comments on other forums, what I am interested in is how you did the rack and pinion and made it work.
The pics on your website don't reveal much at all, so how about you teach us about how/why/what you did to make this work. What rack was used, what arms, how did you mount it, in front or behind the cross member, what bump steer readings did you get, how much extra room has it created, could it be mirrored to work for left hand drive?

As for the lexus motor, does it have the standard sump, what headers/ exhaust, did it need R&P or did it work with the standard steering box, any other issues that UCF should be aware of?

Cheers, Drew in Oz
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post #57 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 08:02 PM
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I just havent posted on Ozbenz because of the negativity surrounding what I am doing. I think there are too many Mercedes purists on there that dont want to see their beloved marque chopped up to suit a builder's specific purpose.

With regard to my R&P, I used a VP commodore rack (also used in VR) which I then stripped. Another set of arms were then machined up and the rack body was shortened slighty to correct the bump steer. The new arms are longer and the steering idler arm connected to each hub were drilled to accept the holden tie rod ends (the Mercedes ones are narrower). The steering arms were drilled upside down to allow for proper fitment of the tie rod ends. If they are drilled the other way then the tie rod ends sit at about an 8 degree upward angle and will have wear and reliability issues. Backets were then fabricated to mount the R&P body using the bolts that the lower control arms mount to the front crossmember with. The advantage of the R&P conversion is a lot more room in the engine bay, as the Mercedes steering box and hydraulics can be deleted and the original Mercedes steering rods and tie rod ends can be deleted. You will need to keep the worm gear from the Mercedes steering box and have it machined down to a short rod which allows you to interface the mercedes steering column with the holden R&P. I simply connected the machine worm gear to the clamp arrangement on the holden rack and done. Travel on the wheels is slightly less than that of the Merc one, making for a slightly larger turning circle. The holden rack sits just behind and low of the front crossmember. If you are using a GM engine then a custom sump will need to be fabricated to allow clearance for the crossmember and the new R&P.

Im about half way through my own sump fabrication at the moment using a chev 307 sump as a rough guide. Im undecided as to whether it will be a double hump type design or just modify the rear pan shape. Problably the latter to allwo for easy removal of the sump if I need to.

Now to the Lexus. I didnt have a really good look at it but I did notice that both the Merc and holden steering systems had be grafted together. He also needed to delete the Merc steering box but kept the Merc steering/idler arms. He basically used the holden R&P body to actuate the Merc steering/idler arms. As for the sump, I didnt have a good look and I dont know the Lexus engines well so I couldnt tell you. If it is a rear sump configured engine then yes, a custom one would need to be fabricated.

Not sure about mirroring the system to work with Left Hand Drive. The rack body wouldnt allow for it. A rack from an American GM car such as a Camaro would probably be up to the task. Either way it would need to be mofidied in a similar fashion to either mine or the lexus bloke's version.
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post #58 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 11:05 PM
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You've read the Delco side, they have problems with the automatic tranny up to now. The same problem that have a guy with a 722.6-5 speed (eletronic automatic) on a M104 with external ECU-support. If you are able to manage this, I will feel incouraged to make my 500 E with a eletronic 5-speed too. Here is the thing to finde a R129 donor with 5-speed and ME-injection, change wheel-hubs and other minor things to make it work. If there is a alternative with a second ECU to drive the tranny it will be even more easy to made this job.

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post #59 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-07-2010, 02:57 AM Thread Starter
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cool info

So the reduction of steering radius is something that I personally don't approve of with a rack conversion, and that happens oftentimes due to the steering arm length on the spindles. More often than not, a box setup will have more travel than a rack, so you end up with this problem. To fix it, you need a shorter arm, and then you fall right back into dealing with bump steer issues. If you are lucky, you can find a rack with the proper travel that is also the right width. There are also ways to modify spindles, but each thing you do opens a new can of worms

And technically speaking, "no bump steer" doesn't mean that it simply doesn't toe out during travel, but is actually minimized as close to zero change as possible at all possible points of travel. This is where the difference comes from taking the time to work everything out or not. Sometimes it's not possible, but you would have to do so much jigging, rejigging and plotting and charting in real time to find this out.

I'll have to look at the your pictures tomorrow maybe, this week is pretty hectic, but as far as the wheelchair joke, you have to admit it was funny, and had no ill intentions

Again I agree that you should think twice if a car has a certain value or collectibility to it, before doing extreme things to them, but at the same time, if you own it, it's your own choice to do what you want. And I honestly feel that what I'm doing is for the better, given the resources and circumstances at hand. I'm sure anyone here would love 300hp, 25mpg and zero maintenance in a 108
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post #60 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-08-2010, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by UCF21 View Post
And I honestly feel that what I'm doing is for the better, given the resources and circumstances at hand. I'm sure anyone here would love 300hp, 25mpg and zero maintenance in a 108

I second that motion!! I'd love to see 25MPG in my 108!
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