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post #71 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-07-2010, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Vehicle: 1956 Buick Century Coupe, 1937 Pontiac Business Coupe
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Originally Posted by thebenzbar View Post
The seats look good! I'm curious, did the upholsterer use horse hair? And where did he source his vinyl (is it mb-tex type)? Thanks.
The original horse hair was in good condition, so were the springs. Judging from the condition of the floor there was no rust or heavy water damage other than the spot in the pictures. Plus there is a factory plastic plate that protects the bottom of the seat. What he did was to overlay a layer of foam over the horse hair and they cover the whole thing. As far as the vinyl goes it is importerd from Germany it is not OEM MB, honestly all I saw was the print in German and the little flag. But it streches good, is soft, it is identical to the old MB-Tex that he removed and it even matches the door panels, which they cleaned up really nice and did not need replacement. I can't even tell them apart.
A word of caution: The reclining bracket is held in place by 3 screws per side. These are "blind" screws, meaning they bolt onto something else... the 6 inch long tab that goes inside the double-wall frame... It is not single... it is double so you do not have access from the seat back. Once you undo the bolts the bracket will slide down and there are 3 paper type spacers per side. The way to save the day is to weld a rod at the bottom of the tab so you can move it up or down to get the screws in. The tab is directional, not L or R but UP or DOWN... look at the distance of the nut from side to side. Tell the guy to leave a 2 inch access port at the bottom so you can drive the tab up. Mark the correct holes as there are total of 6 from the factory before you start punching them. Drive the center screw in, pull it towards you, then drive the top one with the bracket attached, then remove the middle one, pivot the bracket up, drive the second one and last the third one. Do not forget the 5 or so feet connecting rod... I took the seats apart to save him time. He had left the access hole at the bottom not knowing why it was there... I had to go home, get the brackets and had him help me install them. I don't know how many cars are out there with the bench option hope this will help someone someday.
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post #72 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Heater assembly is out. Lines were cut and capped from the engine firewall. Took everything apart, left side core was leaking air when I did the "blow test" with the valve closed. Right side was good. Cleaned up some more, got the seals over the weekend, I will try tomorrow take the windshield and read window out, then drive it to him install the headliner. Emailed Vintage Air and waiting to hear from a sales rep local to me. So far there hasn't been any rust inside the car! The only rust is in the trunk. Found the drain hoses right below the trunk hinges, right side was leaking, left side was good, tomorrow will mach the diameter and install new ones, this time longer (old ones were about 5 inches long)
I do not have Zenith's carbs... I have Solex's... Found out this afternoon as I was looking at the heater connections. Do not know why, but that's what it is.

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post #73 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-12-2010, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Sales rep from Vintage Air emailed me, told me they didn't have a kit for the Mercedes... I already knew that. I gave him dimensions and asked him if he had something that would fit the space... got the idea he didn't really want to help since it wasn't domestic, which is fine with me. It would have been nice but I am not going out of my way to beg. Will get a new heater core and will hook up the stock system.
It was raining today, did some interior work, tomorrow will finish it off.

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post #74 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Two things: First, the windshield is out and second it PISSES ME OFF when "professionals" send me the wrong parts... FCPGroton send me two seals, one for the front windshield and one for the rear. This is what their ad said:
Mercedes Front Windhield Seal W110 (63-68)

Mercedes Front Windhield Seal, 190C/190DC/200/200D/220B
Brand New!

Guaranteed OEM Quality and Fit - 1 Year Warranty
OEM# 1106700639

Fits Following Models:

1963-1965: 190C W110
1963-1965: 190DC W110
1966-1967: 200 W110
1966-1968: 200D W110
1960-1965: 220 W111
1960-1965: 220S W111
1960-1966: 220SE W111
1966-1969: 230 W114
1966-1967: 230S W108
1966-1967: 250S W108
1966-1967: 250SE W108

SEAL THE DEAL!!!!
BUY NOW!!!!

I opened the front one and tried to install it on the glass. It is 5 inches longer from corner to corner plus it only has two "corners", my old one had 4. Then I overlay the rubber onto the car and it is still too long... Does anyone have the right part number for my car? Part number was 1106700639. Bought them from Ebay, what the heck am I supposed to do with them? Will send them back to him first thing tomorrow morning. Will try the Classic Center unless someone has a better idea. Tomorrow is my last day off, I was planning on taking the car down to the have the headliner installed while I was at work. Now this...
On a different note, the glue the factory used to glue the glass was almost like bondo... I guess it is the hardening type but boy that stuff was hard to remove! I used a heat gun and a flat screw driver to remove all of it, but it took me the whole afternoon... Anyone has a better idea on how to remove that stuff? What type of glue is recommended for replacement?

Last edited by CRJ9Driver; 01-13-2010 at 08:33 PM.
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post #75 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by CRJ9Driver View Post
Two things: First, the windshield is out and second it PISSES ME OFF when "professionals" send me the wrong parts... FCPGroton send me two seals, one for the front windshield and one for the rear. This is what their ad said:
Mercedes Front Windhield Seal W110 (63-68)

Mercedes Front Windhield Seal, 190C/190DC/200/200D/220B
Brand New!

Guaranteed OEM Quality and Fit - 1 Year Warranty
OEM# 1106700639

Fits Following Models:

1963-1965: 190C W110
1963-1965: 190DC W110
1966-1967: 200 W110
1966-1968: 200D W110
1960-1965: 220 W111
1960-1965: 220S W111
1960-1966: 220SE W111
1966-1969: 230 W114
1966-1967: 230S W108
1966-1967: 250S W108
1966-1967: 250SE W108

SEAL THE DEAL!!!!
BUY NOW!!!!
I subscribed to your thread from the beginning. I really love watching these old cars get fixed up even though I can't really do it myself at this point in my life. I don't have much to offer except that from experience, even with the newer w123 and w203 models that I own and enjoy, only OEM, Dealer, classic center stuff seems to work...Been burned many times buying cheaper stuff (not that much cheaper btw) and being disappointed and ended up spending more $$$. I share your frustration.

2005 230 K, 26k-77k (sold)
1982 300 TD, 167k-226k
1982 240 D, 308k-327k (sold)
1998 E 320, 120K-141K
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post #76 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you... Lesson learned. Will call the Classic Center tomorrow and order the right parts. Not too often I find myself for whatever reason, (this time it was cost) unwilling to pay the price. It always, always costs me more money in the long run... This time was no different. One would assume I would have learned my lesson after all these years...
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post #77 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 07:33 AM
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110 670 06 39 is the correct part number i bought uro seals for 40$ each and they fit tight and perfect (Although in the past ive had a bad time with them seal was to long on the w115 and chrome would not fit, actually had to cut open part of the seal where factory should have for the chrome) but decided to try it rather than the $100 ea seal from the dealer, and no complaints on them they fit in beautifully

111 1962 220s (200d engine)
1995 S350
1983 300TD
1970 Cadillac Fleetwood 75
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post #78 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Did you get the fuel gauge you were looking for? Got a PM will forward it to you. It didn't work for me, now they say it was my fault my car is an Sb and Sb is not on the list.., (this after my initial quote with VIN number attached, year model and picture). All I know is that the seals alone will cost me close to $800 but I know they will fit and won't spend another afternoon cussing at them. Besides when I did the 911 I used OEM seals and never had a problem with them.
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post #79 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 10:11 AM
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Did you get the fuel gauge you were looking for? Got a PM will forward it to you. It didn't work for me, now they say it was my fault my car is an Sb and Sb is not on the list.., (this after my initial quote with VIN number attached, year model and picture). All I know is that the seals alone will cost me close to $800 but I know they will fit and won't spend another afternoon cussing at them. Besides when I did the 911 I used OEM seals and never had a problem with them.

800 for front and rear?! or for all doors too?...damn just checked my price for the oem fron seal 187$!! damn im glad the 30$ uro seal fit...unfortunatly im not a pilot...but has always been a dream of mine .....and no never got fuel guage and now speedo gave out---odometer still works...so i dont know how far ill make it...or how fast ill get there so thank you very much for the info

111 1962 220s (200d engine)
1995 S350
1983 300TD
1970 Cadillac Fleetwood 75

Last edited by Necrosavant; 01-14-2010 at 10:15 AM.
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post #80 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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$800 for doors, front windshield, rear window and trunk... and as far as being a pilot we won't go there... right flyboyike? Tell them...
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