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post #31 of 218 (permalink) Old 12-01-2009, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Nov 2009
Vehicle: 1956 Buick Century Coupe, 1937 Pontiac Business Coupe
Location: The Woodlands, TX
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Oh it's not even close to mint... lol. She is a looker for sure... but not mint. Just found out I will need whole new trunk floor... the bright side is I will learn to weld! Will take some pictures tomorrow, I threw away the rubber liner, water sipped through the trunk seal at some point and did the damage. It looks easy to cut and replace, will probably use 20 or 22 ga steel and redo the whole trunk. Locksmith today cut me a key from code... really cool stuff. Got lazy and didn't want to remove the door handle so he did it from the trunk lock. Will open the doors up at some point just to document the inside but for now the trunk locks...
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post #32 of 218 (permalink) Old 12-02-2009, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Took the door panel off today when the new key wouldn't unlock the door from outside... It locks it fine but then again it can not turn counter-clockwise. It only turns 1/4 turn clockwise, from 6 o'clock position to 9 o'clock position and spring-loads back to 6. This is what the inside looks like. Door is very clean inside, no rust at all, seems all the rust is in the trunk.
Go to work tomorrow, will be back Sunday afternoon.

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post #33 of 218 (permalink) Old 12-07-2009, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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Got her Birth Certificate in the mail...
Schicht-Nr Production shift number 2058
Fg-Nr last 6 digits of VIN 083397
Prod-Nr Production Number (production related) 00694
Aufbau-Nr Body Number (not identical to to serial number (VIN) This number was needed in the production process to link parts together before they became a car (VIN assignment) 15372
Baumuster Model Configuration (the first 6 or 8 digits of VIN) 111012 12
Auftrags-Nr order Number 27071618 (First digit is the last digit of the year in which the order was placed to the dealer. (1962) Next three digits identify the region (707) or the country the order was placed (USA Tourist, European Delivery) Next four digits are sequential by dealer/region/country/year
Lackierung Paint Code 608 Ivory
Ausstattung Upholstery 133 4 (the first digit of the 3 digit number designates the type 0 cloth 1 MB-tex 2 Leather) light red 3001 seats, 3008 light red carpet
Fahrgestell-Nr 111012-12-083397
Getriebe Transmission 5181
Hinterachse Rear axle Number 17478
Lenkung DB Steering box Number 148651
Batterie Battery Supplier Hagen
Motor-Nr 180941-12-001269 (mine is 180947-12-007478) 250S
Vorderachse links Front axle number 23194
Raeder Rim size 5jx13
Vorderachse Left front axle 23160
It rolled of the assembly line 21 September 1963... There you have it. All numbers match except the motor. Options include 491 USA Version, 503 Left outside mirror, 525 Touch up paint.
Key codes were on the certificate, however they were blacked out. I will call tomorrow see if it's cheaper to go that route instead of going through the locksmith.
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post #34 of 218 (permalink) Old 12-07-2009, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRJ9Driver View Post
Got her Birth Certificate in the mail...
Schicht-Nr Production shift number 2058
Fg-Nr last 6 digits of VIN 083397
Prod-Nr Production Number (production related) 00694
Aufbau-Nr Body Number (not identical to to serial number (VIN) This number was needed in the production process to link parts together before they became a car (VIN assignment) 15372
Baumuster Model Configuration (the first 6 or 8 digits of VIN) 111012 12
Auftrags-Nr order Number 27071618 (First digit is the last digit of the year in which the order was placed to the dealer. (1962) Next three digits identify the region (707) or the country the order was placed (USA Tourist, European Delivery) Next four digits are sequential by dealer/region/country/year
Lackierung Paint Code 608 Ivory
Ausstattung Upholstery 133 4 (the first digit of the 3 digit number designates the type 0 cloth 1 MB-tex 2 Leather) light red 3001 seats, 3008 light red carpet
Fahrgestell-Nr 111012-12-083397
Getriebe Transmission 5181
Hinterachse Rear axle Number 17478
Lenkung DB Steering box Number 148651
Batterie Battery Supplier Hagen
Motor-Nr 180941-12-001269 (mine is 180947-12-007478) 250S
Vorderachse links Front axle number 23194
Raeder Rim size 5jx13
Vorderachse Left front axle 23160
It rolled of the assembly line 21 September 1963... There you have it. All numbers match except the motor. Options include 491 USA Version, 503 Left outside mirror, 525 Touch up paint.
Key codes were on the certificate, however they were blacked out. I will call tomorrow see if it's cheaper to go that route instead of going through the locksmith.
WOAH! how'd you get all that info?

Recovering Mercedes Owner
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post #35 of 218 (permalink) Old 12-07-2009, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Any Benz dealer can get the certificate. For the other stuff look here:
Welcome - Mercedes Benz 230SL, 250SL, 280SL Pagoda Group
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post #36 of 218 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 08:36 PM
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Date registered: Oct 2009
Vehicle: 1965 220se w111 *******1984 300sd w126 *******1991 350sd w126
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Any updates on progress. Later.

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post #37 of 218 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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The day started not so good... I got the instrument cluster and it was not what I had bid on and won... I sent it back to him and getting a refund through Paypal. My old friend, the locksmith cut me another key for the L door and I am proud to say I can lock the car now! Took the door panel out, cleaned the inner part of the door frame, greased the window regulators and covered the inner part of the door with 1/2 inch aluminum soundproofing material that I got from Lowe's ($16 for a 6x15 roll). Cleaned up the door panel, used everything I could get my hands on but still can not clean up a few grease stains, I might have to talk to an upholstery guy to see what they recommend for stubborn stains. The good thing is that they are not ripped, backing is good and they are presentable. I lightly sanded the window trim and need to go find some marine type stain/sealer and re do the pieces. But I was able to put everything together and lock it for the first time in God knows how long...
I will open up the R door tomorrow, I will get on ebay later on to see if I can get another cluster, I ordered a Pertronix kit, not sure about the coil, I was able to find Mercedes 243 Red carpet in bulk, I am waiting for the samples in the mail, I will use my old pieces to cut the new ones and then take them to an upholstery guy and have him do the trim around the edges. My next concern is the dash... I want to do something with it before I put the cluster in. I do not want to spend $1000 and have it restored by justdashes... I was thinking about getting some epoxy, fill the crack on the right side of the cluster and then "shave" the part on the passenger side by the vent where it has curled up then sand prime and maybe recover or paint, not sure yet but something needs to be done before the cluster gets in or the dash is going to stay the way it is for a long, long time...






Last edited by CRJ9Driver; 12-09-2009 at 10:07 PM.
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post #38 of 218 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 11:21 PM
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Vehicle: 1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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The Ponton site has good info on the early Fintails because many parts shared, such as the Solex 2 BBLcarbs. Later Fintails have Zenith carbs. The brake booster, btw you have single circuit drum brakes. The engines are very similar.

Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962) © www.mbzponton.org


There is a site called ‘The Gallery of 190SL repairs’

Gallery

That I can’t get to right now. There are many displays of similar repairs for your car.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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post #39 of 218 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Got a call from the clock guy... he can't fix it. I asked him if he could replace the thermal fuse with a diode/capacitor he didn't want to do it. Does anyone have a copy of how to replace the fuse with a diode and capacitor as described in the MB Technical Companion, to suppresses the points? R door all done, as a bonus I found the same lock code that means same key for both doors! The spring on the R lock plate that keeps the open/close handle spring-loaded flat is broken, so when I open the door from inside I have to push the handle back in, it stays 90* to the door... not a big deal but it bothers me... anyone with a parts car PM me... Last pictures shows the trunk floor. You get an idea of what I have to deal with. It looks like the upper part can be saved, it is just on the surface, but the lower part needs to be cut and replaced. Going back to work tomorrow, will post again Monday night.




Last edited by CRJ9Driver; 12-10-2009 at 10:04 PM.
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post #40 of 218 (permalink) Old 12-14-2009, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Got back around noon today... Disconnected the speedo cable from the tranny. It was cut in half inside the sleeve, that's why nothing was working. Then I made some calls and found a shop in Oxnard, CA were they do a lot of interior work on these car, dashes, panels, seats, headliners, carpet, you name it. I have seen some of their work and it is simply beautiful. So I took my dash out, and if I ship it to them they charge $300 to re-foam, straighten and recover with vinyl. I think it is a bargain. Problem is I kind of like the dash the way it looks now, with no pad... it needs work to be complete, (fill the holes, smooth it out, prime and paint) don't get me wrong, but I can picture it in my mind and there is some thinking to do. Took the wood out, all but one piece was broken, sanded everything down, glued the broken piece and will stain them later tonight. Another thought I had in regards to the dash pad, was to lay down something on the metal (foil or rice paper) use clay and form my own pad and then fiberglass (that way I have a mold) and either paint it or cover it with leather... but so far I like the idea of a bare smooth dash. Clock is dead, had another guy take a look at not much can be done, I was looking on ebay and found a deal on an Infinity oval clock. I can make it fit and I think it will look nice once done. I am deviating a little from the original plan, I do not want to insult any of the purists out there, but trust me, it will come to place. I will take the seats out tomorrow and take them to a couple of places to get estimates on recovering them. Then strip the rest of the interior, clean up the floors, lay down new insulation, I talked to Vintage Air I might be able to retro fit a Gen IV series system that has no cables to route, no vacuum requirements, or capillary tubes. All functions are controlled with just three lighted rotary switches on a panel connected by three slim wires. The system features a separate high capacity heater coil and a super efficient aluminum plate and fin cooling coil. Blend air doors allow infinite dash and floor and defrost air distribution. In full A/C mode air bypasses the heater core completely to reduce restriction and maximizes cool air delivery. Don't know how all it is going to work but I will keep you posted.










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