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post #171 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Vehicle: 1956 Buick Century Coupe, 1937 Pontiac Business Coupe
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Thanks!

Now if anyone knows how to remove the front part of the disc, the part where the studs are pressed in, PLEASE let me know... I spent all day, PB blaster, soaked them, used an impact driver, nothing... 6 10 mm allen bolts from the back side of the disc, I gave up with the impact driver. May be someone has a better idea how to remove them. I want to get new rotors.


Last edited by CRJ9Driver; 01-28-2011 at 10:55 PM.
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post #172 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 12:55 PM
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Thanks!

Now if anyone knows how to remove the front part of the disc, the part where the studs are pressed in, PLEASE let me know... I spent all day, PB blaster, soaked them, used an impact driver, nothing... 6 10 mm allen bolts from the back side of the disc, I gave up with the impact driver. May be someone has a better idea how to remove them. I want to get new rotors.
remove the whole disc assembly then a couple of shots of penetrating oil on these areas circled in the pic then leave it for a day then gentle taps on the allen bolt heads to loosened up the rust on the threads
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post #173 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 01:53 PM
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Vehicle: 1965 220SE sedan (finnie) with 450SE conversion, 1964 220SE coupe project, 1966 300SE coupe
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I know what you are going through as I had the same problem a few months ago. I had to put the old rotors in a big vice, then used a breaker bar with a 2' long steel bar over that, with me standing on the end of it.
Also, with the big allen key socket and extension in the bolt, give it a good smack with a hammer (be careful with steel hammers though in case steel splinters fly off).
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post #174 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Drew. A 2 ft beaker bar with a 2 ft long steel bar with my 200 lbs should give us close to 800 ft/lbs torque... Un-believable. Will try, got nothing to lose. Did you re-used you old races or did you get new ones? Where from? I can find rotors, bearings, seals but not races. My calipers were not leaking. Should I split them and rebuild them or I am asking for trouble? Ordered new hoses too. Date on the old ones was 02/81.

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post #175 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 04:27 PM
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Vehicle: 1981 300TD 310k--1966 230 165k--1970 280se 172k
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Just my advice on your calipers. If the dust boots and heat shields are good and there are no leaks, I'd probably not go ahead with a rebuild. Keep the brake fluid fresh and you shouldn't have any problems.

Based on my observation of your admirable attention to detail and completeness, however, I'd bet you are going to rebuild them. If you have the time and the inclination to to do it, it is not recommended to split the caliper. It makes the rebuild a little harder, but there is a special O ring that seals the halves and it is not readily available. You can push the pistons out some by pressing on the brakes with the shoes removed. Then you can use compressed air and/or channelocks to finish removing them. The heat shields need to be pressed onto the piston with a slight recess (I think 1 mm) to the face of the piston. Mercedes makes a special tool for this but it is possible to use a piece of PVC pipe or similar to press it on.

One option on removing the hub from the rotor is to take the whole assembly off the spindle and put it back on the wheel with the lug bolts tightened. Then you have the whole wheel and tire to give you some resistance and holding power to loosen the bolts.

1981 300TD--310k miles
1970 280sel--172k miles
1966 230--162k miles

Last edited by carpenterman; 01-29-2011 at 04:30 PM.
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post #176 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you... I did what you told me. Then I put an old rag over the spindle and mounted the wheel "inside out" and lowered the jack until there was enough weight on the wheel. Then with the breaker bar and 100 of my 200 lbs they all came off. Thanks again! I ordered new rotors, pads, SKF bearings, hoses and ATE blue brake fluid. .


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post #177 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-31-2011, 01:21 AM
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Finished the dash and the front door trim today. Rear doors are next. Will take better pictures during day light. Going back to work early tomorrow morning. Got the carpet sample in the mail and will go with velour type. Lip stick red. $11.00/yard

Where do you get the carpet? Thanks in advance for sharing.
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post #178 of 218 (permalink) Old 01-31-2011, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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This is where I got it. Good service, good people. Be advised though, I ordered 4 yards and the box it came in was close to 7 ft tall. The UPS shipping will be more than the $44 the carpet will cost you, a lot more. Too bad no one had it in town, it would have been a lot cheaper, even with their mark up.

Automotive Interiors - interior kits, carpet kits, seat covers

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post #179 of 218 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Found a cool guy and with his help I was able to purchase two struts, 20 lbs each 17" long extended with top and bottom brackets. total with shipping was $44. One did it, but I installed both of them to match. Ever since I did the plywood panels, the trunk springs could not support the extra weight, I measured and it was 6.5 lbs and the ends of the trunk (broom stick and scale). Now once I push the trunk button, it opens up by itself! Pretty happy with the way it came out. Bottom brackets were spot welded, top screwed in. Here is his number just in case anyone is interested: Mike 509-961-5273

Cleaned up the inside of the fender wells, the top of the headlight bucket was full of mud. Other than that, it all cleaned up nice, no rust found just like the rest of the car. I will POR15 everything, at least that is the plan, just don't know when... Got the new rotors, Zimmermann, got them from Pelican Parts, $45 each, new hoses, kept the old bearings, they were SKF and other than a good cleaning, they needed nothing else. Re-packed the hubs and just waiting for the brake pads to arrive. Lots of cleaning, old grease and mud during the past 49 years had made everything feel solid like concrete...
Backing plates were removed, I will wire clean them and POR15'em before I install them.




Look at the old rotors... Compare them to the new ones: 8.5 mm thick. Minimum was stamped at 10 mm.








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post #180 of 218 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011, 04:38 PM
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This one is just like my 1962 sedan. My first Mercedes-Benz in 1972. It was black with red MB-tex and original BECKER AM/FM/SW radio with a "Wunderbar." No air. I drove it 80 miles a day, 5 days per week up until 1983. Mileage was somewhere in the 200,000's. I remember it got 12 city and 14-15 highway. Gas was 55 cents per gallon and then jumped to 78 cents. WOW! I cut back my driving. We also had a 1964 220SEb with an automatic. It got even worse mileage but it had an automatic and air. Good luck with this beauty!
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