65 220 S Stalls at low idle - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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65 220 S Stalls at low idle

Morning - My 65 220s is stalling at low idle. If I give it gas it's OK - as soon as I release to idle it putters and stalls after a few seconds. Carbs we're recently rebuilt, they open fine. Air filters not the problem, pulled it out and it's still stalling.

I'm wondering if it's a fuel line issue? Possibly the filter?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 08:15 AM
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Probably the carbs need to be syncronized and/or the mixture adjusted. Rebuilt doesnt mean calibrated, lol.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. Had the carbs synch'd about a year and a half ago, could be the problem.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-20-2009, 09:12 AM
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My '64 tends to suffer a similar problem if I dont use the car for a couple of months. Tweak the carbs ad she's fine. Best solution as always is to use the car as much as possible.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-20-2009, 08:02 PM
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I responded to your other post regarding re-synching. Now I see why you want to do it. Has this problem existed since the carb. rebuild, or is it something more recent? Do you have a way to check idle RPM? It could very likely be as simple as an idle speed, and/or idle mixture adjustment. I wouldn't jump into re-synching until I have verified those items are set correctly, especially if everything was working properly after the rebuild. You may also want to check for vacuum leaks. Are the plugs, points/condenser, ignition wires, cap and rotor all in good order? Are the timing and dwell angle set correctly? Have any of these items been recently changed and/or adjusted? Is it hitting on all cylinders at idle? At higher RPM?

Last edited by mbbuff; 07-20-2009 at 08:07 PM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-21-2009, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback.

Taking your advice from your response on the carb synch post - I'm not going to touch them, except to adjust mixture. I had the Mechanic check compression and points, leaks, etc when I first bought the car. Sent it back with a clean bill of health. I had the carbs completely cleaned and rebuilt and synch'd a month later - they haven't been touched since.

I need to check the timing when I get the new fuel pump in.

Thanks for your suggestions. A lot to work from.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-21-2009, 07:18 AM
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One quick check is to remove the air cleaner and locate the idle air opening on the top of the carbs. It's a small hole, I think by a bump in the top cover. Hold the throttle so the engine will barely stay running, and plug the hole with your finger or a pencil eraser on each carb and see if it makes a difference. If it doesn't, then that carb's idle circuit is probably plugged.

A second check is to again hold the throttle at a point where the engine will just run, and look down the carbs. If you see gas dripping from the feed tube, then you have a vacuum leak in that carb.

Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
1998 SL500
1959 220S
1970 280SL
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-21-2009, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice. I'll try this out. Need to swap put the fuel pump first.

A friend suggested hitting the base of the carb with Carb cleaner. Tested this over the weekend and didn't notice a difference - will try your method as well. Sounds more reliable.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-21-2009, 06:54 PM
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Ctaylor738 makes a good call. If the idle air bleeds are restricted/plugged, it can cause all kinds of grief with the idle quality. If the carbs. were recently done properly this should not happen though. They are located on the carb. top on the choke side. Should look like a small brass jet. Also, what's wrong with the fuel pump?
You may want to reference this site for a little more info. on your carbs. It's not all inclusive, but may help a little.

The Zenith Carburetor: The MB Adjustment Manual

Last edited by mbbuff; 07-21-2009 at 07:02 PM.
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