1964 220Sb Stalls when put in gear - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-08-2009, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Question 1964 220Sb Stalls when put in gear

About a month ago I bought a 1964 220S automatic-trans, dual zenith carbs, straight six, it leaked gas and didn't have brakes... but it ran...

So far I've seemingly gotten the master cylinder working (can't get a rebuild kit so I made my own seals) and bled the brakes, replaced a gasket in one of the carburetors so it no longer leaks gas. now it starts and stays running fine. I left it running a good 20 minutes in park without any help (revving) so it idles cold and warmed up.

The problem I'm having now is when its put in drive or reverse it jumps a little and stalls. Also, pressing the brake pedal causes the idle to drop and a hissing noise can be heard from inside the car.
I'm obviously leaning towards a vacuum leak but I don't know where to look.

Any ideas?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-09-2009, 09:33 AM
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Brake booster leaking, get a good used one

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-09-2009, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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My friend suggested a tranny or rear end problem, so when I get around to it I'll put the back wheels up on stands and try putting it in gear... see what happens... only get Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday to work on it right now...
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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The wheel spun fine after a awkward clunk so I think the tranny and rear end are fine...

I just installed a new brake booster and the brakes work good when its running (park or neutral) still stalls if I put it in reverse or drive, but I think I got it down to a carburetor problem... When it was at a low point in idling speed I put it in gear and it stayed running and moved until I took my foot off the gas... it goes high and low.. turn down the idle and it stalls so its idling too high to be put in gear... they probably need tuned like mad..

The carbs should be clean, but I don't have much faith in the guy that cleaned em 2 years ago (had to fix one of his gasket jobs already)... so I'll probably get some rebuild kits and see If I can get em cleaned and synced up...

Then all I'll have left is a power steering pump problem...

Last edited by tgikal; 07-23-2009 at 12:06 AM.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-23-2009, 04:33 AM
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There is a lot of information at the top of the forum. Look at this post and the Zenith Carb link. It shows how to adjust them.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/vint...resources.html

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-30-2009, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Found several clogged holes and broken diaphrams during the rebuild, the mixture screws were broken and dirt in a jet....

so I fixed quite a bit with the rebuild kits and a spare carb I picked up at a junk yard for $50

put the carbs back in tuned the way the service manual said to (when just about to open give the idle screw one half turn, mix screws out two turns)

The results are exactly the same... wont stay at a steady idle, except it dies when warm now...

I'm really hoping this is only a adjustment problem...
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-30-2009, 01:17 PM
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Sounds like the timing is off in the distributor. Will idle but will not drive?
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-20-2009, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Well now the car drives and it idles for the first 5-10min until it get warm then it still stalls out

plus I was wondering what to expect for the shifting
it says its a 4-speed auto, 1st is the passing gear so it starts in 2, at about 15mph shifts to 3, and about 35mph shifts to 4... then 4 all the way to 80mph? engine is pretty loud at 70 just wondering if thats normal
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-20-2009, 09:56 AM
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Loud engine noises at 70 are normal, especially at the RMP it runs. Would you say there's tapping, knocking or otherwise unusual engine sounds? If you still hear a clunk when you shift into gear, I'd suggest looking at your drive shaft flex disk or the universal joints...
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