Date registered: Apr 2008
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
If they are the Zenith progressive 2 bbl. carbs. the floats are the same as an early (60's)VW bug single throat carb. Years ago I got two used ones for my 250S for $5 vs. $45 for one at the dealer. Here's how to do it as best as I remember. This info. is from an earlier post I did for someone with a carb. problem. You'll need to note the float setting before you remove the old one, and unless you have the actual proper float level setting dimensions, adjust the new one the same way. First, be sure that the old one is indeed bad, because you may just have a needle and seat problem. As I recall the floats were brass, and if bad you'll notice there will be fuel inside when the float is shaken. Also when I had mine apart I replaced the accelerator pumps. If yours are leather they are probably the originals, as the new ones are rubber. Hope this helps. Let us know.
From my earlier post:
"The carbs. on your vehicle should be Zenith progressive 2 bbl. with vacuum controlled secondaries. First, remove the fuel line before you start removing the top screws. It's been at least 10 years since I've worked on one of these, but as I recall there are about 8-10 slot head screws around the perimeter of the top. There are also air bleed metering screws (brass with small holes in the slots), and maybe one or two others, which you don't want to mess with, at least not at this time. These are all located toward the center of the carbs. You'll also have to remove the center stud, if installed, that secures the air cleaner. I think those had long screws though that screwed into the top center of the carb. The top should be loose now. Note: You may have to lightly pry up on the top, as it may be stuck. Use caution not to pry too hard and distort the top, and do not pry on a gasket surface. It should pop loose fairly easily. If it doesn't come loose by now, there were some carbs. that had one more screw down inside one of the venturis. There is also the choke linkage that must be disconnected. If there is linkage to the accelerator pump (I think it was just a cam type arrangement) you'll have to unfasten it too. Remember how everything is hooked up, paying attention to screw lengths (I think they're all the same though), linkage retainers, etc. It may help to lay everything out on a paper towel (in clock fashion) arranged the way you took it apart. That way you can put it back together in exact reverse order."