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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008, 01:19 AM
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Before checking too far,if it's getting water into the combustion chamber,you will combustion gasses into the water...and bubbles in the radiator.
Got bubbles comming up?
No?
Then check the brake fluid level because white indicates burning brake fluid being sucked into the engine via the booster , through the rear of a a leaking master cylinder. I have seen boosters Full of brake fluid plenty of times so it's not unusual,what would be unusual for me is to have coolant Smoking,steam is more like you would expect. :-)
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008, 07:54 AM
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Interesting thought...

I forgot about that one. Also, one can often detect the presence of coolant or ATF in the exhaust using a "sniffing device," an educated human nose. I did not offer this advice originally because I knew it would engender the question: "What does it smell like" and describing a smell over the inter-net is something like pushing a rope up a hill... very difficult.

The OP can take his car to a shop equipped with the "sniffing device," if the "smoke" continues after he tries the other possible solutions mentioned above in this thread.

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Originally Posted by mercmad6.3 View Post
Before checking too far, if it's getting water into the combustion chamber, you will combustion gasses into the water...and bubbles in the radiator.
Got bubbles coming up?
No?
Then check the brake fluid level because white indicates burning brake fluid being sucked into the engine via the booster , through the rear of a a leaking master cylinder. I have seen boosters Full of brake fluid plenty of times so it's not unusual,what would be unusual for me is to have coolant Smoking,steam is more like you would expect. :-)
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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actually it is steam because i put water and not coolant. didnt want to spend 10 bucks if i wasnt sure if i had something wrong
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-20-2008, 09:16 AM
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I have 71 220/8 which had a corroded cylinder head. Coolant was getting into the oil. The car was in Greece all its life under the car of my father. The habit back then in the seventies was to use water rather than antifreeze as coolant. The head of course corroded as a result. The hole was patched but I don't believe welded. The leak recurred years later, necessitating replacement of the head with a used one. It was quite a site. Profuse amount of steam from the taipipe which would not go away and stumbling engine. I checked the oil which was a frothy cafe au lait color. That gave me my answer. Stupidly, I drove the car in that condition 25 minutes to a mechanic! Thankfully, no more damage was done.
Dimitri
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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katalava. hopefully its not that big a problem
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 02:18 AM
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it will be if it's leaking that badly. JB weld will repair most smaller corrosion .Finding good heads in getting very hard now.
The main probelm always seems to the steam vents in the head which direct water from the block. They are steel and react with the alloy head material and the copper head gasket. After time the corrosion reaches into the edge of the combustion chambers.
Then you get leaks.It's not a big problem and it took 40 years to happen ,but it's annoying.
I helped someone out recently who had a 220 S which had a 250 head on it...it dont work,the valves whack the pistons,not enough to break them or seize the engine but enough to cause a real racket when running ..so be careful.
Removing and replacing the head is quite simple with no major issues regarding timing or alignment to watch out for.
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 11:08 AM
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Cylinder head leaks...

have been an issue for a very long time, especially on the late M130 engines, where the top of the block was slotted in between the coolant feed holes between the cylinders. There was precious little material for contact with the head gasket when new...

It seems that with the astronomical cost of new cylinder heads, used heads that "back in the day" would have been scrapped, are being utilized, sometimes with unfortunate results.

Good luck with your situation,

JR
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-28-2008, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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i was just wondering. after installing the head and letting her run for about 10 mins i took the head off to do some adjustments, then put it back on. used the same gasket (which was new) could this be the problem, putting on a new gasket, taking it off, then putting it back on
thank you
jimmy
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-30-2008, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmanmerc View Post
i was just wondering. after installing the head and letting her run for about 10 mins i took the head off to do some adjustments, then put it back on. used the same gasket (which was new) could this be the problem, putting on a new gasket, taking it off, then putting it back on
thank you
jimmy
you took the head off..while it was warm and put it back with a used head gasket?


Wrong.

time for a new gasket and check the head surface to make sure it isn't warped. If it is the cam will be wobbling in it's bearings and will wear them out shortly.
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-30-2008, 08:44 AM
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+1...

What he said...

JR
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