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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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W108 question

I've been looking everywhere for this answer. Is the W108 unibody or frame on? Please someone help me. Thanks!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 09:13 PM
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No chassis under there... MB left them behind years before...
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-2007, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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Its unibody? So I can't swap a ford 8.4 rear end on it for the 454?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-2007, 04:38 AM
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you can use the stock rear end with your 454 .It has disc brakes ,the ratio may be a bit low (4-1) so look for a 3.5 or 4.5 diff .
The only weak point is the right side constant velocity joint. 6.3 's use the same diff and they have miles more torque than any limp wristed chev...

Fitting a Ford diff has been done plenty of times before,just weld brakets to the housing which connect to the two torque arms. Fit a triangular link to the top of the diff to locate the whole assembly .Once you done this you will have lost most of the mercedes built in superior handling and ended up with a car which drives like a ...ford.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-2007, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info! So I don't have to put a ford rear end in I can just weld in the diff so I can keep the disk breaks and all that good stuff? This motor makes 400 tq so I want to make sure it can handle it.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-2007, 05:12 PM
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The only time you don't want to do a Burn out is in Reverse,because the torque is multiplied by the reverse gear and turning a left hand turn which always stresses the CV joint.but otherwise you are safe to thrash!.
A friend of mine put his 6.3 on a Dyno and in third ( top gear means excessive wheel spin...) it develops 900nm of torque.Not bad for a 35 year old engine.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-2007, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Well shit i'll just do a 6.3 then. What will one of those run me? I looked for them online (the M100 motor right?) and couldn't find them. Can you give me any pointers?
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-2007, 07:40 PM
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They're always listed on Ebay in the USA. a dog can be as little as $2000 right up to one that was sold week to a buyer in Germany for ......$140,000.
" How fast you want to go depends on how much you want to spend.
Ed Winfeild..1928..."

The International M-100 Group
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 09:17 AM
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Chevy Engine into W108

Hello Sherlock;

Its a fun project. I am currently doing a swap on my 250SE. The new engine is a 1990 Corvette TPI attached to a GM 700R4 transmission.
Here are some of the issues I have encountered:

1. Engine crossmember and Chevy oilpan using same space.
Resolution - either relocate oil pickup to front of engine, dry sump engine or modify crossmember to make room for modified Chevy oil pan (I chose the later one).
2. Stock steering box and #7 sparkplug and exhaust port using same space.
Resolution - remove stock steering and replace it with a Chevy Malibu (98-03) rack and pinion unit. This does require the fabrication of mounts and modified tie rod ends to work
3. The transmission tunnel needs to be opend up in various places to make room for the GM 700R4 transmission. The driveshaft also has to be shortend or you have to have a custom one built.
4. If your W108 is a column shifted automatic, don't anticipate to reuse the stock shifter mechanism - the geometry will not work and the linkage hits the left cylinderhead.
Resolution - floor mounted shifter with cable linkage
5. Exhaust system - headers are a real issue because of space - The best fit I have been able to find are made by Sanderson Headers ($250). They make a high quality product but their customer service is poor and their turnaround time is very slow.
Of course is budget is not object, you can always have a custom set of headers made (about $800-2000).

PM me your email address and I'll send you some pictures of my project.

Chris
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 03:24 PM
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Hey Gustav,

Your project sounds pretty impressive. I am sticking a V8 into my 1965 220SE finny, which uses the same front crossmember and steering, and I had the same problems.
I am curious about the steering. Did you get the geometry to work so that there will be no bump steer? When you say 'modify' the tie rods ends, do you have to weld or heat them, or do you just use different versions? I seem to recall that in Australia you aren't allowed to heat suspension or steering components??
If it all works, and if I were Sherlock, I reckon it would be great if you could make some sort of cardboard or plywood template up to locate the rack in the right place so that the geometry is correct. To me, that is the scary part - doing all that work just to find you get bump steer would be a real bummer.
Good luck guys,
Drew in Oz
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