power window relay - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-10-2007, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Mar 2007
Vehicle: 1973 mercedes benz 280 se 4.5
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power window relay

I have a 73 280 se and the windows have never worked right. The only window that always works is the driver side front. Yesterday the passenger front and the driver side rear stopped cold. The passenger rear will go down but won't even try to move at all when i want it to go up. I believe it is the relay because at one point or another all of the windows worked fine than just stopped. If anyone has a suggestion or could tell me the location of the window relays, it would be a big help. it looks like it might rain and i have a window stuck down. Thanks, Nate
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-11-2007, 03:04 PM
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On my 450slc the front driver / rear passenger are on the same fuse and the front passenger / read driver are on the same fuse. When I bought my 450 the front drive / rear passenger windows stopped working a day after I purchased the car. I had the dealer I bought it from "REPAIR" the problem. They replaced the burnt red fuse with a white fuse because the red fuses were so washed out. It worked for about a week when I figured out I had to replace the white fuse with a red. My windows have worked well since.

Start by shecking the fuse.

I don't believe there are relays for the windows. I believe they are wired directly to the switches.


A good test is to remove the door panel and put 12v from the battery or a charger directly across two of the window motor terminals. I believe the window motors actually have 6 inch wires coming out of the motor and are wired to a terminal strip. If you can operate the window you have a wiring problem. If the window doesn't move you have a motor problem.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-11-2007, 03:11 PM
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Passenger side front and driver rear is almost certainly a fuse. Replace the fuse regardless of how it looks or tests with a copper element type fuse. In fact all fuses idealy should be copper elements, less chance of corrosion. The other issue on the other rear glass is probably the regulator inside the door or a very dirty switch. Sometimes spraying TV tuner cleaner from Radio Shack can clean a switch. You can swap switches to confirm a faulty switch.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-11-2007, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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the fuses must be in an auxillary fuse box because the main panel under the steering wheel dosn't list a fuse for power windows at all and neither does the manual, and so far i haven't been able to locate the fuses. the problem with the passenger rear window was the switch. thanks for the help!
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-12-2007, 10:26 AM
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My 450slc has two fuses in the main panel for the windows. I have no idea how they are labeled but I do seem to recall that it was not something straight forwards like "WINDOWS". The fuses were labeled something much more cryptic than that.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-12-2007, 12:33 PM
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does it say "lifters?" on the fuse box cover.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-12-2007, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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no it dosn't say lifters, but i took each fuse out till i found the one that operated the windows. it is number "5" 8 amps . it lists- turn signal indicator, back up lights, fuel gage, speed increasing solenoid, stop light, warning light for handbrake, valve unit and compressed air. not even a loose translation of window. this morning i took off the two door panels of the windows that don't work and tested the windows with a battary and they worked fine. it could very well be the console switches, but i am still stumped.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-12-2007, 04:35 PM
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The windows are on two seperate fuses. Left front and right rear on one fuse right front left rear on the other. I don't think you have ruled out a fuse yet. The second fuse should also be 8 amps (red????) and it seems like it is close to the first window fuse you found in the fuse box.

Well the good news is that the window motors are a royal pain in the rear to change and get lined back up properly as well as expensive. At least you don't have to worry about those.

After you have identified and replaced the second window fuse start working backwards from the window motor. Put the battery across two of the terminals on the back of the window switch and see if the window moves? If it does move are you getting 12v to the switch? If you have 12v cooming into the switch but no voltage going out when the switch is pushed in one direction or the other the switch is bad.

Last edited by oughtsix; 07-12-2007 at 04:40 PM.
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