hmm, sorry to say my cars a 1975, doesnt have a IAC valve, i dont have one setup atm, will buy one later, currently the stock system works fine with MS. The car idles at about 600 with everything drawing power and about 750 in just drive, and 850 in neutral. 1100 when first started
I created a nice adapter between the 80s Ford Crown TPS and my throttle body. I CNC'-d it from a piece of aluminum. I can post pictures and specs if someone would like to see it. I also used my CNC (although I could have used a knife) to make the edge on the Ford TPS smaller diameter. The TPS fits perfectly, the bolts are right on, and the throttle body goes back to its place without any problems. I will try to create a mold so I can cast the piece from epoxy plastic if someone would like one (it will need a two-part mold).
Also, I have my Ford injectors now (I was debating using Volvo injectors as they would fit as well). Mike mentions that the ring and spacer should be reversed for a better fit. I made a playdoh mold of the injector hole. The problem with Mike's setup on the 380SL is that you can push the ford injectors in too much and the O-ring will go beyond the narrow seal surface in the cylinder head. To fix that I took some 1/4 inch washers (with inner diameters of about 8mm and turned them down to 14.5mm. They are only 1.5mm wide so I need to use an additional small (1mm diameter) viton ring (Harbor Freight). So in my setup it is: turned washer - small viton ring - viton ring - cap. With this setup the ring sits right where it should be sitting and the injector cannot be pushed further in than it should be.
Another difference between the 450SLC and the 380SL is that the 450 had the idle air hoses going to the manifolds. In the 380, the idle air hoses are connected to the plastic injector housings. Thus if I replace the injector I will need to find another way to supply "idle air" to the engine. I will probably use the EGR hose connection on the bottom intake manifold part and reroute it to the front to supply the idle air to all cylinders. This will also enable me to relatively easily connect a nice PWM solenoid or even better a stepper.
Another question to you guys is: Where did you get your manifold vacuum for the ECU? I would think that in order to have less pressure swings, the vacuum should be pulled from the bottom manifold and not just one of the fittings of the upper manifold. Unfortunately, the only two connections to the bottom manifold are the brake booster and the EGR. I will probably end up drilling yet another connection as I do not want to use either one of those (as the accessories attached to them would probably interfere with the readings). Please let me know where you connected your MAP sensor...
I attached my Map directly to where the old ECU got its MAP from, right in the center of the engine at the back near the firewall, its fairly low down on the bottom Manifold.
That sounds like the brake booster vacuum source, right? (my car did not have a MAP source for its computer - as the only thing the computer did was to control the freq valve woth feedback from the o2 sensor).
with my car the connection i found was linked directly to my old school map sensor that was buggered on my car hence the reason for me installing MS II in the first place. Was very luck for me too cause i had only bought just enough vacuum hose to make it from where my ECU was now placed to the barb on the engine.
I started by swapping the inlet manifold for a 450 version this gave me idle control without using the plastic ports around the CIS injectors. Then I rebuilt the rest of the inlet manifold so I can use the stock air filter. Installed my modified throttle body with the ford TPS on and installed the Coolant Temperature sensor in the place of one of the thermo vacuum switches. Then I installed my fuel rails which were manufactured by my Next Door Neighbor and painted black so they blend in. After a couple of false starts I got the injection and fuel pipes correct and installed a variable fuel pressure valve. I had already installed an LC1 and WB O2 sensor as well as the relay board and Megasquirt. After installing the Intel Air Temperature Sensor in the mouth of the Original Air Filter Assembly, it was time for the first start which failed. I then set about removing the stock ignition stuff and connecting the stock VR signal for the Megasquirt, with this done and a map from another guy who has done a 420SEL conversion it started and ran.
I have been driving it for a couple of days and it needs tuning but it runs.
I've been busy the last couple of weeks with the conversion. I have pictures posted at: Index of /Megasquirt
When I am done and have time, I'll write up my experience. I still have to fasten the rails (I have the holders already - Harborfreight aluminum rulers), connect the rails with my fuel hose (summit racing - by far the most expensive components of this conversion; I could have bought all the fittings and hoses for half the price but decided that I would sleep better if I had aluminum fittings and professional fuel hoses), put in an oil separator (Ebay), replace the O2 sensor with a wide band sensor, and wire the whole thing in.
I have a picture of the Ford TPS with the machined aluminum converter piece. I decided to go away from the stock air filter as I hated the rubber bottom of the intake and that it occupied way to much space and is a terrible source for air turbulence. I found a perfect K&N filter (after weeks of emailing with their support). This will definitely be cheaper in the long run as the filter was $40 (about the price of three paper filters) and should last a lifetime). I also like the cleaner look of it. I may end up putting a hood scoop above it. I have a GM air temp sensor plugged into the bottom of the filter. I reworked the top part of the intake and plumbed the original air control valve into the inlets of cylinders 2 and 8 (I was thinking of replacing the intake with a 450 intake from my friendly junk yard but decided that I would want to have an air idle valve anyway so this seemed to be a better solution). The inlet part of the valve is going to be attached to the aluminum tube below the air filter. I plugged most of the water temperature sensor/switch holes but used one of them with an additional water temp sensor (like the one that sends the signal to the gauge). I especially love my solution (shameless self advertisement) of the fuel pressure regulator (a rail piece turned upside down and attached to the rest of the left-bank rail and a Bosch/Volvo regulator). The filter is connected to the throttle with a 3" aluminum tube (lucked out on Ebay - $20 for three long pieces) and with a Spectre (O'Reillys) no-hub connector ($6). The right bank crankcase inlet received a Spectre breather filter ($9.5), the left bank will get an oil separator ($20) and then a hose back to the intake (I am thinking about putting a computer power supply fan in there so the gases are vented instead of being recycled).
Jonathan: can you email me the map? Also, do you have pictures?
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