I need help my 280. Please see the attached pics. 8 & 9. I noticed the sealing is sort of opening up and rain water gets in . Can this be fixed by just getting the sealing changed? (I am not planing to do myself).
Pic 10, what are these 3 hoses for I beleive Heat & AC since these cables go into the control for Heat & cold. But the cable on the right side (one towards the break booster) does not move when I move the controls. Can someone please give me more details.
Pic 11, Head of the department, yes that is what I call it. I would like to clean it but looking at all these fuses in there I cannot think of anything that will work without causing a short circuit. Is there anything available that I can spray onto the engine and clean it, with out causing a fire or a short circuit or even blowing upo the thing.
Pic 12, This a 34 year old car, in its original shape, no dents or any such things. Minor rust has started showing up at some places under that paint. Paint also is original, it is chalked, but still not that bad. I was going to buff the paint myself so I bouth a 7" orbital buffer & some Turtle wax buffing compound, But that didn't make any difference to this paint. After spending about an hours on one spot I finally gave up, I even tried the rubbing compound but even that didn't make any difference in the look of paint, It didn't even smooth out. Is there anything else available that I can use to get this dull paint shine again.
Or should I just get the whole car re-painted. I know that is going to cost me a lot but is it a good idea to strip the original paint & repaint it.
Sealing: My rear window on my 280c was leaking bad into the rear speaker deck and trunk area. A quick fix was to get some clear silicone from any auto store, cut just a small part of the tip off the tube and put some around the joint between the chrome and the body. I had to do two applications, very little at a time. If you are looking for it you can find the sealant but it doesnt stick out as being ugle from a short distance. Cost <$5
#10, this is for your heater left and right (not AC). On one of my cars, it is a bit tight, and on the other it moves very freely. You may want to disconnect the cables at the spot in the picture and then move the levers in the car. If the levers move freely then the cables are fine, and the valve is what is stuck. If the valve is stuck, I think you can take it apart by removing the nuts on each end (havent done this yet its on my list for my car). If not, find a used valve somewhere, or dont use the heat.
#11 I have used a pressure washer on hundreds of engines. Everyone will have their own opinion and many will suggest you not do it. I prefer to do it when the engine is slightly warm, take off the air filter and put a plastic bag on the carb and dont spray the electronics or any hot parts alot. I also prefer to start the car immediately afterwards. Others may have other opinions but this has worked for me.
Your paint should change its appearance a bit after all the work you are doing. How are you using your buffer? I havent had problem getting very old paint to shine again.
Thank you.
I ordered the sealing already and will be delivered in a couple of days along with shock absorbers. I guess the previous owner had siliconed the sealing but now even that is wethering and even the aluminum part has started to stick out.
I did spray some WD-40 on the nut and moved it with pliers since the cable is disconnected from inside. In this position (as shown in the picture) the Heat is on, which is good for canadian winters but I want to switch it off during summer. So I guess I will change the position of the lever manually and see what happens.
I do not have a pressure washer yet. I was thinking of bying some sort of engine spray or something similar which will loosen all the gunk. What do you recommend?
I rubbed some buffing compount on the trunk lid and then tried my buffer on it but nothing happens.
The separate left and right hand hot water heat control valves are easy to repair.
Drain the coolant low enough so you can remove all hoses going to the control valve without dumping coolant.
Remove the hose clamps and hoses - be carefull not to damage the hose unless you plan to replace them.
Remove the heat control valve itself. Detach the cables from the ends of the valves - as I remember they just fit over a pin on the valve.
CAREFULLY remove the screws on the ends of the valves. Use penetrating oil for steel and something like hard water scale remover for brass corrosion. The hot water control valve itself is a simple quarter turn plug valve with rubber o-ring seals.
Clean all the corrosion, replace the o-rings with the same size (try a plumbing supply house) and apply a little vaseline for lubricant to the seals during assembly.
Reinstall the valve and adjust the cables for proper movement of the dash controls. Refill coolant.
Enjoy smooth heater controls.
__________________ benzfleet
1973 280 W114 (Driver - 140,000 miles)
1974 280C W114 (Now running - driven off and on this summer)
1968 200D (Engine rebuild planned??)
1964 200 (gasser parts car) & 1966 200D (complete car - Got it to run. Now to see if clutch can be repaired to try to drive it.)
1980 300D W123 (Parts car - engine runs, but trashed inside and out )
1981 240D W123 4 speed ( In sad shape when bought - many parts from '80 300D has it back on the road. Still needs much work, but shows promise.)
Nice car, I have a 73 as well but I opted for the less practical 450sl. My heater controls need a bit of help too but are not as simple of a fix, someone has fooled with the vacuum system or my car:>(
I have a suggestion for your paint depending on how bold you are and if your willing to take a risk. Looking at the pictures it seems like only the top layer of your paint is damaged. Have you thought about wet sanding it a bit then buffing it out? If you’ve never wet sanded you’ll need to pick up some wet / dry sand paper at your auto parts store.. like 3000 or 3500 grit really really fine stuff. Then you wet it and BY HAND lightly. Sand the paint only until it fills smooth to the touch and the color is consistent then buff it out with the orbital buffer you mentioned buying. You can spark life into old paint but you can go too far too. In my opinion its worth trying to save the original paint even if you have it touched up smoothed out and sprayed with a clear coat.
Once again there is the risk of going all the way through the paint, and from the pics you car looks nice as it is … just something to think about
Thanks for the suggestion Myke. I think I might go that route and do the wet sanding.
But I may have to wait for that as my engine has developed a problem. Well I am not sure what it is at this time. I have asked for help in a different post, I have smoke coming out of exhaust.
Kardar
all the time or just in warm up? My car smokes during warm up if I let it sit too long.. I guess a ring sticks then works free only smokes when the temp gage reads 150-165. weird
Myke
My problem is weird too. My car doesn't smoke at startup. Ok here is the sequence, I start the car, let it run for a few minutes to warm up (just about 100) and then drive. No smoke yet. But after driving say about 5-10 minutes if I stop at a traffic light or slow down on a highway traffic jam the car starts to smoke like hell. Then the smoke will go away and when I slow down smoke again.
This is strange, I have noticed that it only smoke when the Oil pressure falls to about 30 if it is at 45 then there is no smoke.
Kardar
My problem is weird too. My car doesn't smoke at startup. Ok here is the sequence, I start the car, let it run for a few minutes to warm up (just about 100) and then drive. No smoke yet. But after driving say about 5-10 minutes if I stop at a traffic light or slow down on a highway traffic jam the car starts to smoke like hell. Then the smoke will go away and when I slow down smoke again.
This is strange, I have noticed that it only smoke when the Oil pressure falls to about 30 if it is at 45 then there is no smoke.
Kardar
It sounds like if it could be the valve seals. I think it's an easy fix and not very expensive!
. Can this be fixed by just getting the sealing changed? (I am not planing to do myself). 
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