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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-08-2007, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Its been awhile....Im back

well its been a few turns on the clock for me posting in here....been busy.....slacking off........anyway, hope all is well with everyone......i just wanted to ask a couple of questions and continue with my postings......since my LAST post, god knows when.....i finally made some room in garage to be able to work.....i blame it on my wifes cookware(s) and crap.......and a couple of wrenches on my end.......in any case.......not much has changed on my 67 250se coupe......i want to pull out all the wood trim in the interior and reveneer everything........im also considering adding veneer touches that didnt come in the car.....or original.......so heres the first question.....does anyone know what wood was used in that year?...1967.......or did it vary? the only portion of undamaged wood trim is on the back side of the glove door.....being that it was always closed and hidden from any sun.....its a dark wood with broad black horizontal stripping.....i appologize for not post a pic.......i will when i get a chance.......im actually at work now.......but i was curious if anyone had an answer to the type of wood......and i am also curious if the rear deck on the coupe was ever a veneered wood?........my intentions for the car is the complete dash, including the leather wrapped areas on the dash.....the tops of the door and side panels above the chrome trim and the rear deck or hat rack if you prefer.......in my minds eye i can see a complete wrap around in veneer.......with the upper portion in wood and lower in leather......the choices of veneer are many and i havent decided yet.....i want a highly figured veneer......more than what was in the car originally.......a waterfall pattern.....a burl.......birdseye?.........well, enough dreaming on my part.........thanks for listen....reading as it were..........thanks in advance for any comments and info.......hope to hear what everyone has to say........thanks

grez


oh....ill post pics soon
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-08-2007, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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it seems theres still pics from before in here......heres a link to the older pics of the wood grain in the glove......i think it looks like zebrawood or zebrano, myself......but then again im not a wood expert either......can u tell????

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/vint...-box-pics.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/vint...-all-mine.html
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-05-2007, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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heres some shots of the dash........sun and water damage

grez
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-05-2007, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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passenger door shots....

grez
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-05-2007, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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wood surround........

grez
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-05-2007, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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stripping....

grez
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-05-2007, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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remains of the vent tube......nice huh?

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-10-2007, 05:59 PM
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Cool pics and a cool car. I enjoyed your post.

It looks like zebra wood to me.

Would a veneer deck act like a sound board on a gutar and amplify noises. Maybe a little sound deadening material on the back of the veneer would be useful.

My opinions:
Maple - Too light but a possibility.
Walnut - Too porus.
Oak - HaHaHa.
Mahogany - Too porus.
One of the varieties of Rosewoods - Very pretty!
Cherry with an natural oil finish - Very pretty medium golden brown wood that ages beautifully. I definitely would not use a dark cherry stain like on many pieces of furniture.
Ipe' - My favorite wood! Hardest wood I know of and very resistant to weathering and wear. I did the staircase in my house out of slate treads and risers framed in Ipe'. The Ipe' takes all the abuse and it will probabally outlast the slate. A very pretty wood. I have several very figured pieces. The problem with Ipe' is matching the wood from piece to piece.


Finish - 1/3 Spar varnish (Has UV inhibitors) - 1/3 Tung Oil - 1/3 turpentine. This makes a very tough and beautiful finish. I would not use it on a blonde wood like maple as it is too yellow but it is beautiful on cherry, walnut and Ipe'. Many, many thin coats sprayed or wiped. The turpentine thins this finish and it with the tung oil makes the finish self leveling covering up brush strokes. I usually go about a half hour to an hour between coates. Some times I do a final sanding with 300 grit and a final coat to work out all the dust particles. Rubbing this down with ground pumice or rotten stone will give you a nice flat finish instead of a glossy finish if that is your preference.

Last edited by oughtsix; 05-10-2007 at 06:07 PM.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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oughtsix - my next door neighbor is a general contractor......he did his own house with woods....he happened to stop by and check out what i was up to and mentioned the wood was rosewood.....i am not sure, but ill take his word for it.......it kinda looks like zebrawood, but the lines on the original pieces are thicker.....i went with him to a lumberyard to see some veneers they had for sale.....they did carry zebra veneer, but the lines are very thin and spaced about 3/8" apart........i like the look.....they had rosewood veneer as well, but i couldnt find a sheet with broad lines like what is on the dash pieces........i have also never seen ipe....i will look it up and see online..........for the finish i was thinking about going with a marine type finish......since it has UV protection and made to stand abuse.....and i dont have to mix diffrent parts.......just trying to stay simple......i might try a small piece of something just to see the finish u mentioned tho.......but, im not there yet.

i mention in another forum what i wanted to do with the wood in the car. i dont think i did in here, but.....to sum it all up in brief........i want to make copies of everything in fiberglass........the work that i am doing now is to prep it for mold making.......once the pieces are put back together and filled, sanded and sealed.........then comes the mold and hopfully a reproduction made in glass.......after that, i will veneer the copy and replace in the car.......again i hate to ruffle the purests out there, but the wood is really in bad shape......the best i can hope for is to salvage whats left before its really gone and copy it.

right now i have most of the pieces glued back together, filled sanded and sealed with 2 layers......less the cluster bubble and glove door........the bubble is a whole other monster.......the glove box itself needs replacement.....thats another glass job........the face panels are almost finished and i should be able to begin mold making soon......this will be my first attempt with glass, but not mold making.......i use to do small figurines and models.......but never large pieces like this.......it will be interesting.

grez
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2007, 11:07 AM
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Grez,

Sounds like a quite a project.

Yes, Very possibly rosewood. (Rosewood is a generic name that can refer to many different spieces of trees)

My understanding from your post is that you plan to reproduce the pieces in fiberglass and then veneer the fiber glass? The speedo cluster looks like it would be a dificult piece to veneer from my limited veneering experence. The other pieces look like they would be to thin and fragile to make out of solid wood and veneering would be the only way to go. Are the originals veneered fiberglass?

To me it looks like it would be a time consuming but very rewarding project to bring back the woodwork. I was looking at pictures of a Mercedes with burled maple on ebay and I must say it looked very nice. If you do go with Maple or any other light wood DO NOT go with an oil based finish as your results will be very yellow.

The finish I suggested is a marine varnish (spar varnish) base that is just thinned to make is penetrate better and easier to apply. It is really more of a technique to apply varnish than it is a magical formula for a finish. A premixed version of this finish is available in a product called WatrerLox. I prefer mixing my own and will generally add spar varnish to the mix between coats to thicken subsuquent coats and keep a relative constant amount of mixture in my application jar.

I think your project is great! The heck with the purists!
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