1975 240D - from brand new MB owner - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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1975 240D - from brand new MB owner

Alright here it goes.

I recently purchased a 1975 240D, I bought it from a guy who lived about 2 1/2 hours from my home so when my wife and I picked it up we decided to get a hotel room and leave the next day since it was late. When I picked it up from the guy it was already running and he told me that the starter had been a little touch and go recently. We stayed there that night and then next morning we went to leave but the car wouldn't start but it was a little cold 20 F. After a little nursing we did get it to start but only by having it connected to our other car with jumpers. We got home and the next day I tried to start it but it wouldn't do a single thing when I tried it. I turned the key and the battery light came on and I started the glowplugs ( which seem to work fine) but when I pulled to start it it didn't do anything.. So I guess my question is.. Is this a starter issue, a battery issue, or a temerature issue ( it was about 15-20 degrees that day). This is my first Mercedes and my first deisel so forgive me if this sounds a bit newbish.

Thanks
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 06:29 PM
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If this time jumpers don't help, I'd look at the starter relay and the starter, in that order.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 08:09 PM
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You can jump the starter by completing the circuit between the two diffferent sized bolts on the starter to see whether or not it will crank at all. At least you will know it's a starter issue and not a relay issue.

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1974 - W115 - 240D /8 - 4(M) OM617.910 + Turbo + 300D FW - Completed 7/8/10
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Great Thanks.. I will give that a try
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-22-2007, 02:33 AM
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i just had similar issues on my 76' 300D.
CHECK your grounds, don't just check them renew them. unbolt the ground from the transmission and get a cordless drill and a wire brush and clean all of the oil and sediment away. Twice. do the same for the connection which attaches to the frame member. also clean up the bolts that fasten them to their individual components.

secondly check to see that the braided copper cable is in good shape and the connections are still solidly soldered in place.

now move up to the battery. check the battery cable connection to the battery post, it must be tight, no wiggle room at all. get out your deep 10mm socket and pull the battery. now to et to the lower grounding point you must remove the battery box. there are two screws fastening the box. one at the 3/4 back and on the passengers side. and another which is accesses from right in front of the radiator.

pull the box and remove the cable. do the same with the rotary wire brush on both sides of the connection point. don't forget any other auxiliary grounds(the 300d has on auxiliary ground there for the fog lights) clean up the bolt and nut on the mating faces/ or replace it. a new cable is inexpensive 4-5 dollars and is well worth it to renew the ground connections.

reassemble. knock as much of the rust, if you have any, from the battery tray and replace it the tray. add an acid neutralizing pad, or a felt pad permeated with baking soda if you have no alternate.reinstall battery.

remember to clean the corrosion off the terminals and also inspect the + positive cable and replace the connection if necessary.

the terminal style where the wire is placed between either side of the clamps and tighten is the least efficient connector. a soldered connection replacement will last a lifetime.

this might not solve all your problems but i'm willing to bet a gallon of Bio that it is the root of many.

check the battery for charge before you reinstall it. a dead battery is really hard on an aging alternator.

try this and come back with your results.

total time one hour
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-22-2007, 05:38 PM
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just to be safe

You need to get yourself a diesel block heater. They cost about 50 bucks and you put it on the side of the oil pan. That should take care of the temp issue and keep you from blowing an engine, if ever. The thing is that you dont have a fast glow system as they do on the 123 models. this means basically that instead of cranking within 15-45 secs your engine may take 30-2mins to start when its that cold. good luck with that
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