Starter engine removal on 280SE 4.5 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2007, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Starter engine removal on 280SE 4.5


New on this forum, but glad I found it. I have a 1972 280SE 4.5 (USA edition) and haven driven it with much pleasure for four years straight on a daily basis. Now however the time has come for a much needed overhaul so I bought another car. The next day my benz decided it wouldn't start anymore. Figures. The starter engine has power just doesn't crank over. I guess I have to remove it. But that seems a tough job. I removed the right front wheel but still find it hard to get access to the bolts that hold it to the clutch housing. Has anyone tackled this job before and is able to give me some pointers? It would be much appreciated.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2007, 01:01 PM
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It's a tough job. I ended up removing the drag link and tie rod to get it out and it was still difficult.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2007, 10:09 PM
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Pull back the passenger side mat and there should be a small plate. Remove the screws and the bolt will be exposed.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-04-2007, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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Hmm. That sounded like a great suggestion, but I can't seem to find it. Are we talking about a W108?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-04-2007, 06:57 AM
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Yes, The cover is at about the two o'clock position on the trans. tunnel.....
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 10:08 AM
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nahh, it's simple. Get under the car near where the drive shaft connects to the transmission. From that position, you can see the top bolt. It needs a 10mm allen key. Now, get a long enough extension rod and a universal joint to account for the angle and you'll have it out in a jiffy.

I am presuming you already disconnected the battery from the cables, right?
Since you're working with some very large, hot wires that are not fused.

No need to take any of the suspension components out. Just turn the wheel to one side and the starter w/o cables attached on its end will slip out. I find it marginally easier to remove the heavy battery wire from the starter when it's bolted into the car since I can get more leverage out of a 13mm socket plus extension, but that's just me.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-20-2007, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I did i. It turned out cth's method was the one that worked. Thanks, mate. Oh, and for those that come after me; there is no hole in the trans-tunnel, so you can save ruining your upholstery looking for one.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-24-2007, 07:52 PM
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im a little late on this one. did you find out if it was the starter? i have a 1974 280se and mine wouldnt start for a while and it was driving me mad. i found out that thedistributor has points that need to be adjusted and below that there is a set of contact point for the fuel pump. after i replaced both sets of points and the spark plugs cap rotor the car started like nothing was ever wrong.
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