Pumping while getting someone else to crank the engine helps a little. I killed 3 batteries to get the engine primed once. I don't know what it is about that specific 300D motor.
The valve adjustment will help but if it ran before it will run now.
Not necessarilly. Tight valves may be the key to his problem. The weather has just turned cold, and the lower the temp, the tighter the valves get. It can lead to lowered compression, and you need compression to make a compression ignition engine to fire. Those air molecules need to be compressed into a tight space to raise combustion temp to about 900 degrees F.
The engine is not likely going to drop compression that much in 2 days and it was clear that the engine was running fine before he changed the fuel lines. There's likely air in the lines and it is just a pain to get it reprimed. I highly doubt the valves will become so tight that it will not fire unless the GP's aren't working, the fuel isn't gelled up and or the air is unusually cold.
Sako, are you getting some partial firing when it cranks or nothing at all? What's the air temp where you are?
The engine is not likely going to drop compression that much in 2 days and it was clear that the engine was running fine before he changed the fuel lines. There's likely air in the lines and it is just a pain to get it reprimed. I highly doubt the valves will become so tight that it will not fire unless the GP's aren't working, the fuel isn't gelled up and or the air is unusually cold.
Sako, are you getting some partial firing when it cranks or nothing at all? What's the air temp where you are?
Either way get the valves adjusted when you can.
Question? When does a light bulb burn out? It worked yesterday. When does a diesel engine reach the point when it doesn't start because of low compression? True story: A guy drives his SL to the grocery store, gets out of the car, goes into the store. He gets back in his car, starts it, puts it in drive and nothing happens. His transmission just quit worling just like the light bulb. I'm just saying we need to look at all the possibilities.
It still runs, it is clear to me that it is a fuel starvation issue. When it's being cranked while I am pumping the purge valve as fast as I can I can hear it firing but doesn't stay that way. 2 days ago I did get it to run for a minute. I'm going to warm up in here for a minute then go back outside to tinker more. And also I am now using ULSD since the bio was solidifying in the 35 degrees were having.
I just got back inside. I manually filled all the lines with an ear dropper w/diesel, some of them stayed full and others I could see the fuel flow away, back to the tank I presume. I replaced and filled the canister filter too. Finially got it to run and it idled but sounded like it was missing every couple of seconds. While it was idling I went to the back and poured 5 gallons of diesel in, when I took off the cap I heard air rush out so the tank was pressurized. Idled for about 7 minutes until what was in the canister filter ran out, then it got rough and died. I cannot get fuel to go to the clear fuel filter by pumping the purge valve. I see it come up from the tank but stop just short. Shouldn't the pump force fuel to go through the whole system?
I'm really confused here. Bio diesel shouldn't gel up any more than diesel and especially at 35 degrees unless you mean -35 degrees., and what is ULSD? The reason you can run biodiesel without altering the vehicle is because it is vegetable that has been chemically altered to retain the consistancy of diesel. If you want to use WVO or SVO, you need to install a single tank system or a dual tank system to heat the oil. You can also do a blend of 85% veg oil to 15% unleaded regular. This blend dowsn't require heating. You mentioned all the lines being clear. You should have only two or three clear lines. The rest should be steel. To bleed these systems all you need to do is pump the primer pump until you hear a squeaking sound. It is primed. If the engine doesn't start right away you will need to prime again. It is possible that the valves in your transfer pump are sticking which might be causing part of your problem. Transfer pumps seldom fail, but occasionally they do. Also I still think a valve adjust would help considerably. You know in the factory diagnostic manuals MB lists the order to check things for a particular complaint. There is a manual for gas and one for diesel. I'm home now and don't have my manuals handy, but Im telling you that check valve adjustment is one of the items on the list.
Bio diesel shouldn't gel up any more than diesel and especially at 35 degrees unless you mean -35 degrees., and what is ULSD? The reason you can run biodiesel without altering the vehicle is because it is vegetable that has been chemically altered to retain the consistancy of diesel. If you want to use WVO or SVO, you need to install a single tank system or a dual tank system to heat the oil. You can also do a blend of 85% veg oil to 15% unleaded regular. This blend dowsn't require heating. You mentioned all the lines being clear. You should have only two or three clear lines. The rest should be steel. To bleed these systems all you need to do is pump the primer pump until you hear a squeaking sound. It is primed. If the engine doesn't start right away you will need to prime again. It is possible that the valves in your transfer pump are sticking which might be causing part of your problem. Transfer pumps seldom fail, but occasionally they do. Also I still think a valve adjust would help considerably. You know in the factory diagnostic manuals MB lists the order to check things for a particular complaint. There is a manual for gas and one for diesel. I'm home now and don't have my manuals handy, but Im telling you that check valve adjustment is one of the items on the list.
Linear Mode
