w108 power window wiring? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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w108 power window wiring?

I am trying to install a new driver's door power window regulator in my 1967 250s. The regulator that was removed from car had a motor with 3 wires. The new regulator has a motor with only 2 wires. Does anyone know how I can wire this to work in my car?
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 08:14 PM
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Welcome to BenzWorld! I haven't run across this one in a while, but hazily recall that the solution is very complex (I could be mistaken). I believe you actually need to add a relay among other things...

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mclaypool
I am trying to install a new driver's door power window regulator in my 1967 250s. The regulator that was removed from car had a motor with 3 wires. The new regulator has a motor with only 2 wires. Does anyone know how I can wire this to work in my car?
Here's the likeliest situation: Power window motors will accept 12v+ signals from the relays GermanStar is referring to, up in the fuse box. This input is based on your finger's input at the window switch. Depending which way you want the window to move, one of those wires will be the up 12v+ wire and one will be the down. When there is a third wire, it'll be a 12v- ground wire. These motors are fairly unique in that they can reverse directions.

My suggestion is to verify my comments on your car by testing:

1. Open up the passenger door and test with a multimeter which wire color is up, down and ground. Ground will typically be brown.
2. Compare your results with the wire colors on the driver's moyor/regulator you are removing...often an up wire will be blue and the other will be blue with a stripe. Or green and green with a stripe. You should be able to figure it out that way.
3. As for installing the two-wire motor...this is the likely situation: The ground wire has been eliminated because it is likely the motor/regulator will end up bolted to the door which is connected to the frame which is grounded. I'd suggest you take the ground wire of the three wires already in the door and put a ring connector on its end and connect it under one of the bolts holding the regulator in place.
3a. Now all you have to do is to figure out which of the two new wires is up and which is down. It doesn't matter. Hook them up and try it. If the window goes up when you exoected it to go down, merely reverse them..You're done.

Dave
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-28-2006, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Ron, you were correct. I got my hands on a technical bulletin from MB that describes how to build a work-around using relays. I've ordered the parts and hope to get this done on Saturday. Thanks again for the help.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-28-2006, 07:01 PM
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Good luck -- let us know how it turns out.

"If spending money you don't have is the height of stupidity, borrowing money to give it away is the height of insanity." -- anon
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2006, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Power window wiring

Well it isn't working out so well yet. I got it wired up per the instructions from MB. I can hear the new relays clicking which tells me that power is getting to them from the original wiring harness but the new window motor is not offering to move. I guess I'm going to have to go through each connection and try to change them one at a time to see if I can make it work. Hopefully I won't accidently fry the relays in the process.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2006, 08:24 AM
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Do the instructions mention using a different window switch? I'm wondering if part of this conversion involves abandoning the door-mounted window switch in favor of using the later version console-mounted switch.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2006, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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No, the instructions don't mention changing the switch. Since the new relay/harness that it instructs you to make is intended to bridge the 3-wire harness to the 2-wire motor I assume that the old switch should work. Maybe I'm wrong about that.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2006, 01:02 PM
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Well, if there is no mention of a switch in the service bulletin, I suppose you should be OK.

"If spending money you don't have is the height of stupidity, borrowing money to give it away is the height of insanity." -- anon
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-07-2006, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Well I finally got it working! The diagram from MB was incorrect. After I moved a few of the connections to one of the relays It worked fine. Now the electrics work but the window "stutters" all the way up. I've tried adjusting the channel but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
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