I really like the nappa hydraulic line for use as fuel line. Just push the line onto the barb and it is good for up to 200psi without any kind of crimp. It is very heavy but the 6an connectors make it easy to work with. When I went into nappa and asked for 6an connectors they didn't carry any. After a minute of talking with them they discovered I was talking about standard 45degree connectors or something and they have a very large selection.
You can see my grey pvc intake plenum in this picture and the white PVC holding the IAT (Intake air tempature) sensor.
At the top of the picture you can also see my IAC (idle air controll) motor in it's aluminium block. I just used a couple of 1/2" copper fittings and some hose to plumb the IAC to the idle intake ports on the intake manifold. The IAC is mounted to a piece of angled aluminium stock that is bolted to some retaining studs that previously held the CIS mechanicals. To the left of the IAC you can see a variable resistor. This is my new TPS (throttle position sensor). I plan on putting a small arm on this variable resistor and connect it to the throttle linkage. Pretty much any variable resistor will work as a tps with megasquirt and the range of movement isn't even all that important since you can set idle and WOT positions very easily in megatune.
I had to put a 3/8" NPT elbow on both ends of the driver side rail before I could put the 3/8" - 6an "T" fitting on to clear the valve covers with the fuel line. The two fuel rails are plumbed in parallel. From the stock fuel pump to a "T" fitting to each of the fuel rails. Then from each of the fuel rails through the "T" fitting shown to the Fuel pressure regulator. This is supposed to keep a constant flow of fuel over all the injectors and keep the fuel from heating up in the rails. The fuel pressure regulator is plumbed to the stock mercedes fuel return line.
I am kind of proud of my fuel rail retainers.
This is my first attempt at an aluminium fuel rail. I broke an 1/8" bit off in the rail while drilling a pilot hole. The subsequent hole was off just enough to cause vacuum leaks and fuel leaks. I also drilled the fuel injector pockets too deep on this rail. You want the top O-ring to seal against the top of the fuel injector bung hole (pocket) as well as the sides of the pocket. My injectors did seal on the top of this rail until I put the fuel injector electrical connectors on the injectors. This made the pockets just a little too deep. Keep in mind the width of the fuel rail vs. the 45degree fuel injector electrical connector with a female socket on it when deciding on the depth of the fuel injector pockets. The pockets don't need to be as deep as they seem like they should be.
I started the injector pockets with a 3/8" hole all the way through to the fuel passage. I then opened this up with a 1/2" bit about 3/8" down. I then opened this up with a .540" reamer I got off of ebay. An adjustable reamer won't work because it won't fit through the 3/8" hole. On this rail I used a countersink bit to make the entry chamfer. On my current rails I used a 1/4" round over woodworking router bit to make the entry chamfer. The router bit worked much better than the countersink and made a perfect trumpet shape. I cleaned the pockets up with a dremmel fitted with a buffing pad and some rouge polishing compound. The pockets have to be smooth or you will split an o-ring when inserting the injectors.
After messing around with some springs and such I decided simple is best. These retainers bolt onto the intake where the old fuel injector clips used too. You can actually cut the tip off of the original fuel injector retainers and use them on the electronic injectors but this doesn't do any thing to retain the fuel rail on the injectors. You can get fuel injectors with barbed fittings or screw on fittings and make your fuel rail out of fuel hose but these types of injectors are very hard to find.
Yes, if you look real close at my retainers you can see numbers and graduation lines on them. If you look even closer you can probabally see harbor freight stamped on them somewhere. At $1.49 the cheap plastic harbor freight machinests squares make perfect stock for 3 retainer clips each. I have 4 retainers for each fuel rail but as you can see in the top picture only two clips per rail works just fine and hasn't been a problem. I just need to bolt the remaining clips on.