Please help me with advice on 280se - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-11-2006, 10:31 PM
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Date registered: Dec 2003
Vehicle: 1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
Location: Near Manassas Va.
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Time for a 3rd opinion, I'm doing this on my 65 220S, same chassis.

The shop smells MONEY, so stay clear of them.

The first thing I would do is to buy a grease gun and try to grease all the front suspension grease points. If you can't get any in, take off the grease point and dig all the old grease out and try again. It helps to hold the grease gun end on the fitting and try to force it in. Any grease is better than no grease.

The most important fittings are the kingpin fittings in the center, and the top camber adjuster. You may need new rubber seals in which case the dealer can get them.

When you have the wheel off, look at the top outside bolt holding the upper control arm to the kingpin. Loosen the small locking bolt and try to turn the larger camber adjusting bolt. If you can turn it, it's fine, if you can't it's frozen and needs to be replaced. The bolt will have to be cut off with a torch. These parts are available as repair kits, both at the dealer and aftermarket.

Next, assume the subframe mounts, they attach the front suspension subframe to the chassis, are bad and need to be replaced. Also, assume the engine and trans mounts are bad and need to be repalced as well as the flex disc(s).

Also, there are several grease fittings on the drive shaft and two on the swing axle pivot.

I bought a large grease gun and also a flexible hose for it and Mobil 1 synthetic grease. It's a reddish pink so it's easier to see.

Make sure the brakes are in good condition. Assume you need new fluid and hoses. Check the pads front and rear.

That's it for now. Please take some pics and report back.

These are fine cars especially when they are rust free.

BTW, the doors may also need greasing. Buy pointer grease fitting for your grease gun. More on this later.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2006, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Where the top of the shock on the right side should have been connected to car, it wasn't... it was rattling around broken and the car was just bouncing on the spring. I just got the car back today ( I was away in Tuscon for a bit). She runs great with the tuneup, and the new shocks helps a bunch too. I'm feeling more and more confident that I didn't make a grand mistake. Manny said the engine and tranny were indeed strong and the main problem was that it was just sitting for a while and needed to be driven.... so I'm driving it.

On a different note, does anyone know if these cars come with speakers in the front door panels or has someone rigged it up that way in my car?
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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006, 09:18 AM
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Date registered: Jan 2003
Vehicle: 1990 560SEC Euro
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Hello again, Boris---------

Glad to hear all is well with your car! It sounds nicer and nicer.

I've never seen speakers in the door panels before on that model. My recollection is the 1970-1972 cars (maybe also earlier models) had one speaker in the driver's side foot well, at the floor, just in front of the door opening, AND a speaker in the passenger's side foot well, at about the same location except facing more rearward, being fitted in the box which encloses the AC blower. The locations are asymmetrical, and far too low in the cabin for optimal sound. I've seen several cars with speakers fitted in the doors, for sound quality considerations.

My thoughts: For all those except collectible/show cars, why not enjoy improved sound quality? So long as the grills are not garish and unfit for the vintage look (and especially since the previous owner made the decision for you), the door speakers represent an improvement.

WBAIN gave some great pointers on chassis lubrication. If you do that every 1 to 3 months, you'll likely avoid front end repairs, maybe for years. Those kingpins, bushings, motor mounts, etc. are quite expensive to go through. It's worth doing the PM (preventive maintenance).

Thanks for checking in!

Jim Rothrock
Windermere, Florida
1970 300 SEL 6.3
1979 450 SLC 5.0
1990 560SEC Euro Conversion
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006, 07:39 PM
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Vehicle: European 1974 350SLC ,'78 300CD& '80 300CD sold , '81 240D SWMBO's Car '84 300CD & Euro
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Thumbs up It's BACK !

See ? I tolja Manny was a good guy , he's one of those rare ones : an honest mechanic who gives a crap about older cars...

Now go drive the sumagun and don't forget to HOT change the oil a few times in the next 2,000 miles , change the oil filter each time too .

If you stand behind the car when it's idling and the exhaust smells like stale gas , it is so drive it to near empty and then fill it with high test (I'm fond of Chevron's Supreme with Techron) and that'll dissolve all the old deposits and flush them out , be prepared to replace the fuel filter in less than one year .

-Nate
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-23-2006, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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Hey, you know what? ... Manny lost my hubcap : ( I just realized it was missing. It was one of the 2 piece deals too. The inner part is gone.
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-23-2006, 06:18 AM
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Hubby Gone Missing

Not to be a wise a$$ but ;

Since you've had the car back a few days , how do you know it dissapeared in Manny's care ? . the Vespa scooter kids steal the inners for thier scooters.......

If you're 100 % sure it left @ Manny's place , go ask him , maybe he's got a used one or what not...

-Nate
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-25-2006, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I don't really know, so I'm not going to pursue it. A hubcap is the least of my worries right now anyway. I've got a short somewhere that keeps blowing my interior light/window/turn signal fuse. And the horn stopped working too, even though it's on a different circuit. Hrmm.

Speaking of 'least of my worries', I just redid the door seal fabric, since it was rotting away. 20 bucks at Lincoln Fabric. Wish I had a camera to take pictures; it looks sharp.
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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-27-2006, 07:48 PM
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Well ; the horns are usually extremely simple to fix , they're hot on one side and when you press the horn button , that grounds the other (brown) lean , making it toot ~ .

So , if one horn connection has power and the other doesn;t , remove it and take it apart , dress the points inside it with an oil stone or burnishing file then re-assemble and adjusat the screw to where it just barely lights your trst light , re-install and have happy tooting . I';ve fixed hundreds of these old horns as they sound great , I use them on all my various old cars , trucks & motos .

Look to see if the interior light isn;t wires in reverse , it's hot ont he plain side and the switch controls the ground path , one contact for door switches , the other for on all the time...

They're often wires revers by non German mechanics .

-Nate
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 01:27 AM
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Thanks for the info, Nate. I fixed the light fuse problem. I'll attack the horn situation tomorrow morning (don't want to wake the nieghbors ) The other fuse (fuse 5, I believe) is still giving me problems; it blows only when i put on the right turn signal, so I'm going to pull the unit tomorrow and see if there are wires touching somewhere. After all this is over, the car should be electrically sound.

Thanks for everyone's help and encouragement! I'm starting to fall for this old girl.
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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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That's me up there, accidentally used my friends name with his computer. Hmm, does anyone know the ampere chart for the fuse box? The little card doesn't say, and it still blew a fuse when I put in a different turn signal unit. I was using a white, 8amp fuse for the curcuit.
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