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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-28-2006, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: May 2006
Vehicle: 1964 190D
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new user - W115 diesel questions

Hi all! I'm planning on buying my second Benz ever, a 1976 300D (automatic) next week for $400 and later running it on veggie oil. On the test drive I noticed a few things that concerned me. The turn signal lever needs to be held while signaling and it clicks really really fast. The 1970 280SE I used to have did something similar. Is this a common problem and is it hard to fix? Also, the entire time I drove, except in neutral, the oil pressure gauge maxed out at 45psi. Is that bad? Don't know if this is the right forum but I read that the 78-83 diesels are best for vegoil conversions, with their indirect injection and stuff. Is the engine used in 76 any different? There's a couple more things wrong with it but for the price I don't mind so much. Hopefully I will be able to drive this car for several years without it breaking like 5 out of the 8 cars I've owned!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-28-2006, 12:16 PM
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Date registered: Oct 2005
Vehicle: '77 6.9, 74 240D, 96 Ram 5.9L Cummins, 02 Civic EX, 10 Mazda 5 Sport
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The fast clicking is due to a burnt bulb. You'll have to find he burnt bulb and replace it. The oil pressure should be at 45psi if you don't have good oil pressure your engine will grenade by eating rings and damaging valves and so forth. All MB engines up to the new CDI engines are all indirect injection motors. THe 76 was the first of the OM617 motors producing a whopping 80hp when new.

How did you break 5 cars!?

Check the car for rust! lift the front and rear floor mats and check for rust. The floorpanels accumulate water and the drains are often plugged. Also check to see if the frame or jack points are rusted out since that is a structural issue which will make the car unsafe to drive. Being in oregon the rain may acclerate the rusting.

1977 - W116 - 6.9
1974 - W115 - 240D /8 - 4(M) OM617.910 + Turbo + 300D FW - Completed 7/8/10
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-29-2006, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Hehe, the floors are definately wet, there's a leak somewhere and it's been in wet Lebanon for at least 9 years, but as long as it runs well and stays in 1 piece I'm happy. I will definately check for major rust though, thanks.

1979 Camaro - bad ignition switch - didn't want to dump money into the heap
1972 BMW 2002 - blown up differential - my fault
1974 BMW 2002 - broken transmission output shaft - idiot who "fixed" it's fault
1992 Subaru Loyale - broken timing belt, stripped cam pulley - couldn't afford to fix
1983 Subaru GL - ?? fuel? - sold it to one of the P.O.s who converted to propane
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 09:06 PM
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Date registered: May 2006
Vehicle: 76' 300D
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Cool P'3

I also have a 76" 300D and find that to engage the turn signal so that it "holds," I have to hold it in the switched (L or R) position for 2-3 seconds and then it will stay switched until I complete the turn. Couldn't begin to tell you why, but it works.
Just like the other fellow told you, oil pressure pegging at 45 is good news - be glad... My 76' had 72K on it when I bought it a couple months ago. I already took it on a road trip from Houston TX to Grand Rapids MI. Ran great all the way, but my air conditioner blower motor decided to burn up its bearings. Not looking forward to replacing that!
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-04-2006, 10:41 AM
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Vehicle: 2002 SLK 230, 1986 190E 2.3-16, 1978 450SLC, 1971 220D
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The turn signal stalk can be fixed easily with a small file. Remove the rubber cover at the base of the stalk and remove the retaining screws. Once they are out, gently pull the assembly out of the steering column. You will see a metal plate with two grooves and "catch"points. These points need to be enlarged so take the file and lengthen the area. Be careful not to go too far as the self cancelling will not work. Hope this helps.
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