I have gotten the car to idle really well and when I put it in gear the oil pressure drops and the generator light flickers, I have her adjusted enough so that she is somewhat okay to drive but I was wondering what I could attribute this sudden loss of oil pressure and almost stalling too? I checked out the jaimekop carb manual but couldn't really find what I wanted. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Well, when the car is in gear, the transmission drags the engine as it takes rpm to turn the tranny...If you put it back in park and the idle returns high, oil pressure goes up and the gen lite goes out it means the tranny is sucking too much pwr...
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real engines don't have spark plugs
This sounds hard to figure without more information, mechanicals just have so many moving parts it can be a trick to pin any issue down immediately.
Tell us what your idle rpm is in gear, stationary.
As mentioned the tranny soaks up some rpm so even if it sounds okay in neutral, it might be idling too low in gear to run the generator or keep oil pressure up.
You're supposed to set idle on autos in gear. No, don't put it in gear and start playing under the hood, you keep it in neutral, set the idle and then put it in gear with your foot firmly on the brakes. Check the rpm in gear is the factory setting (should be around 700-900rpm depending on the engine type, but look this up).
Too low? Put it back in neutral and up the idler on the carb. Too high, set it down. Keep adjusting until it idles properly in gear, then tell us what it's doing in neutral.
It should jump to about 1200rpm in neutral, again depending on the engine type (this information should also be in a manual for the model).
ie. if its revving its ring off when you put it back in neutral just to keep it idling when you put it in gear, you've got a problem. Which is probably just something like running waay lean and too much retard, a tiny vacuum leak or that sort of thing.
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"Last of the V8's. Blown, twin overhead cams...sucks nitro."
-Mad Max.
all mercs should have their idle set with the trans in Drive and the handbrake on hard,with a chock under the wheels[:I],using a tacho set the idle at 900 rpm.Obviously ,your dwell etc should be set to stock specs before you try to set the idle.
Is theigniton distributor vacuum advance mechanism working properly?,what about the mechanical advance /retard weights?
If you have access to a exhaust analyser,make sure it's not too rich at idle ,that will kill your idle speed very quickly.
The idle while she is in park or neutral is probably around 1300-1400 RPM's just my estimate as I don't have a tach availabe to hook up to the engine. I will try to step up the idle so that when she is in gear she will stay running. I think I did up the idle a little and it got her to run enough to drive around but when I put her back into park or neutral she would idle really really high.
LOL. I'm in the same boat. Except I'm a little worst off than you.
Putting it in gear causes my 72 250 to stall. I tried 800 RPM in idle (manual spec) 1200-1500, & 3000 RPM.
I think my issue is a vacuum leak. When I first got the car "running" I put a vacuum gauge on it and was gettign 5-7 HG in idle. I replaced the retard, and advance lines, as well as the break booster. now I'm at 15 Hg. Tonight I'm going to try to find the vacuum modulator and probably replace that hose as well.
Hopefully we'll get these old beasts up and running soon.
When I first bought the car we took it to the dealership to have the car worked on because she wasn't running right then either, they informed us that the front carb was no good so they bought a used one and put it on, turns out that the two carbs on the car now are both rear carbs, would that effect the running of the car? Also do you think by buying some new carbs-webers, that my idle problems and stalling when in gear problems would clear up. Buying the webers has been a long time coming, I think I just need to bite the bullet and buy them. Could the carbs on it just be worn out?
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