I did do some of the prep work, I bought and installed the new fenders, I also bought new rocker panels but I will have the bodyshop do that as it requires some welding. I took all the chrome and trim off myself[:), so now she's sitting in the yard with primer fenders, no trim and not running properly kind of depressing, but then I just think of how she's going to run with the webers and a nice new paint job. Last year I painted the hood of our MGB, I took it down to bare metal and then painted it, it came out really well. It looks good for now but after the 250 gets her paint job the MGB will be next.
Another thought as to the problem of the car not running in gear could it be a plugged idle circuit, or failing idle solenoid? Just a thought, I saw somebody mention this on another forum. If so what does the idle solenoid look like?
Thanks
To test your idle cicuit, while the car is running look at the carbs. in the middle there are 2 brass towers. look from the 2 tower 1/2" twords the passenger side.
There is a little hole. That is the idle cicuit hole. Cover it with your finger or a pensil erasor. The RPM's should drop.
If they don't then there is a blockage.
Remove the fuel mixture screw. Set the key to on but don't tunk engine (this is for the shutoff solenoid. You can skip it if you're 100% sure you don't have one.)
Get some compressed air and blow it through the hole. You should see/feel air comming out of the hole you just tested. If you don't then you have a plug in the "pipes".
If you do feel air comming through, then you'll need to remove the top cover only.
Twords the passenger side of the 2 towers you will see a little brass jet.
Pull it out and clean it.
Put everything back & you now have a clean idle circuit.
I had some time this morning and I played with the idle circuits and both of them are clear and clean. Anyother thoughts? I plan on getting the vacuum guage and engine analyzer this weekend if I can get to the sears store near me, I figure I am going to need the tools to properly tune the webers.
Ok, so I started the car and she would barely even idle without me keeping my foot on the gas pedal and restarting her every few minutes until she got to about 175 degrees then she idled fine in gear,around 35 was the oil pressure and in idle she was fine, but when I first started her this morning she was backfiring like crazy through the carbs and would barely idle in park. When she was warmed up and running what seemed like good I didn't dare take her for a spin on the lawn because she would probably have backfired and I wouldn't get back up the driveway. Anymore thoughts?
So I started her up again and she idled fine but once she got above 175 degrees she started to stumble and stall again, in park the engine would idle okay but in gear she would die just like before, so it's like at different temperatures she starts doing this, and there's a middle range just below 175 degrees where she's okay.
I have 2 vacuum lines, when I took one of them off the carb I could feel a good amount of vacuum, no way to measure it but it felt like a healthy amount.
Somebody said that it could be worn or broken mechanical advance weight springs in the distributor. Does anybody have any thoughts on this because it might explain why when I advance/retard the ignition when she's first started and then again when shes warmed up she will run okay.
Thanks
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