More Adjusting Solex & Timing. - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-24-2005, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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More Adjusting Solex & Timing.

Hi again. I'm still adjusting the duel solex in my '63 220b. All I've read suggest initial setting to screw mixture adjusting screw all the way in and back out 1 1/2 turns. so Ive been fooling around in small increments around that range and running a little rough and not having much power. then I read that with about 600 to 800 rpm idle to turn the mixture screw in 1/2 turn at a time till the engine started to get rough and back out a hair at a time till it got smooth and go beyond till it got rough then back a hair at a time till smooth and find the correct range. ANYWAY to make a long story longer, I screwed it all the way in (a little at a time on both carbs) and they never got rough . with them screwed all the way in the engine ran better. I conclude there must be something wrong with both mixture screws. I used a balance tool from JC Whitney adjusted the screws out about 1/4 turn it was running smooth,adjusted the idle. the timing was where it should be. It really ran smooth sitting there in the driveway at idle so I took it on the road and when I gave it gas it coughed and puked and had no power up hill. I got out and advanced the timing about 10 deg and it ran much better. Had power on hills and still idled ok at stop lights. I'm not sure how the timing is affecting it why it likes to be advanced I almost think I could advance it more but don't know why I should have to. I don't have chain streach. I just reset the valve clearance again and checked all the plugs for spark every thing looks good. I have a crane ignition and my plug gap is about .030 maybe that needs to be different i don't know. I think I have more of a timing issue than a carb issue But if anybody has the answer I would really appreciate hering it. Thanks PAT>

Pat Mc.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-25-2005, 07:31 AM
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RE: More Adjusting Solex & Timing.

Hey Pat,

the 1 1/2 turns are an initial setting. Then you need to dial them in.

There are many ways of doing that. the traditional half way between the 2 rough ends.

Using a color-tune to look at the color of the cylinder.

And my favorite of using a vacuum gauge. Adjust the screw until it reads the highest vacuum.

Sounds like you need new adjustment screws. My understanding is they erode over time.

You don't mention what you initialy set the timing at and how (rpm, vacuum...)

Also the timing chain sometimes slips. have you verified all the timing marks?
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-25-2005, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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RE: More Adjusting Solex & Timing.

with the valve cover off I verrified the marks on the cam spacer,the crank shaft damper(balencer) and the distributor. Then started it and used a inductive timing light on # 1 wire and the marks on crank damper. at 700 rpm I turned the distributor to approx 4 deg btdc. I never have cranked up the rpm and rechecked it at high rpm since i'm not sure where it should be then. I think the screws are bad but its odd that they are both bad. Somebody said vaccuum leak but I dont find one. It still seams to be running rich. I advanced the dist. about 10 deg and it ran better. I'm going to advance it a little more and see what happens. It has a crane ignition that seemes to be set properly. The carbs have new gaskets and diaphrams and needle valves and the float levels are good.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-26-2005, 08:00 AM
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RE: More Adjusting Solex & Timing.

I had a vacuum leak after I power washed the engine.

It would hop up & down by about 100 RPM's. When I looked closely on the intake manifold next to the carburator closest to the passenger there was a little tube sticking out. Plugged it back in and the engine speed stopped hunting.

Don't forget that too much advance can cause detonation. Drive your car slowly, radio off and listen for any pinging. IF it does ping back off the advance.

Good luck
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-26-2005, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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RE: More Adjusting Solex & Timing.

thanks, I did that today and did have nsome ping and backed off the advance a little but didnt go back out to see how it is. If im correct you have a '72 250. mine is a '63 but the engins look the same excetp the 250 has a lot more stuff in the engine compartment. Mine looks empty compared to that so im not sure whats on your manifold but the only union I see on back my manifole is where the tube goes to the transmission. I have an automatic and have very little knowledge of how it works but that tube connection is tight. It is possible my carbs aren't tight enough or the spacers under them could be a little un flat. I migh re mount them again for the eighth time. I have a remote power brake booster that mounts near the radiator and I have it bypassed and removed from the car for rebuild and the big vaccuum hose for that is plugged. maybe not plugged good enough. If i dont get it running perfect by next year i'm going to take it to a pro but I don't know anybody around here that that I trust and I dont want to pay somebody to fool around and figure it out because thats what I'm doing. I still think my mixture screws are bad. I'm going to look for new ones. When I rebuilt the carbs I had a kit that had gaskets and diaphrams and needle valves but no screws.If you think of anything else please let me know. Thanks Pat.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-26-2005, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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RE: More Adjusting Solex & Timing.

MAN I WISH I COULD EDIT THE SPELLING.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-31-2005, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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On The Right Track

I let the engine idle a while then quickley took the tops off carbs and checked the float level. I thought it was a little high so bent the arms up a little and closed it back up then I noticed that my Idle Jets were loose, screwed out about a turn. I tightened them in and now the idle mixture screw does work and does affect the running as opposed to only running with it screwed all the way in . Now with a little playing around I hope I can get it adjusted better.

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