Damn air suspension ! - Page 10 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#91 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 04:39 PM
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Dear Friends,

First of all, sorry for my english, I am a spanish V280 owner with ENR suspension troubles. Last weeks I had problems with my suspension. I parked my V 3 hours and when I came back, It was on the floor. I bought the MB O rings set and I put them in all the valves. I solved the air leaks and all was great til I decide to check the suspension sensor in the triangles. I got out the righr sensor, checked for rust and seeilg that it was ok I reinstalled it. I dont understand what happened but after that my V looked like a "A team van" (with the back 10 cm higher!!)

At that time I decided to lift the V with hidraulic jackscrews and check all again.

I checked the compressor, I dismounted it completely and it was ok (like new)
I checked right and left hand valves with a 12V input and they works well (they release air, so works)
I checked the drain valve and it work well too.


I checked the suspension sensor. With they dismounted I pull right sensor lever and it openned one or other valve (depending of the possition). I didn´t get to know how the left sensor works because I think it didn´t open any valve (pilot in my european V, copilot in your english V)

I disconnected the ENR ECU and the dash error didn´t dissapear.

So, My problem now are:

If I wait until the compressor turns itself off, all sides are very high (like the Ateam van)
The left side lifts up earlier than righ side, so if I stop the compressor to avoid being a A TEAM VAN my V goes inclined (higher in left than right.)


I dont understand what happens. It worked relatively well until I touched the right level sensor but I think that dismount and mount it again shouldn´t cause problems.


Could someone to make two pictures of how the level sensors are mounted in the van. I mounted them in the only two possible ways and the result was the same, but i think that the problem is there.


Thank you for reading my troubles and I will try to help you if I find a the solution.

PD: Sorry for my english, if something isn´t comprehensible say me and I will try to explain it again)

I will put soon several mods I have made to my V in case of help for someone (second bat, leds dome lights, footwell lights...)
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#92 (permalink) Old 03-03-2009, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenedge View Post
OK guys,
impedence (is this the same as resistance???)
Given the language barrier and that we are talking of a D.C,,. (Direct rather than alternating current circuit) yes it is.

Quote:
he says it should be 26 ohms, i had a reading of 56 ohms. but Ralf at V-Klasse reckons "this is bad".
But the drain valve is clicking, coils usually either go short circuit (no resistance) or open circuit (very high resistance). What does you meter read with the two probes connected together? Some meters usually analogue have to be zeroed for an accrurate reading.

I would not necessarily assume that because there is 12v on the D.V. socket that it is the drain valve that is faulty. You could have 12v there and it drop to useless as soon as the D.V. is connected. It may be indicatiive of a dodgy connection further back the line whereby with no load there is volts but as soon as the load is connected it drops away.

Disconnect drain valve air pipe from solenoids, apply 12v to drain valve and compressor lightly cover the pipe you removed and see whether air comes out of drain valve. If it does drain valve is working.

Have you tried plugging it all back in turning on ignition and going through the sequence to get the suspension out of manual overide which it may be in?

You are having had a lot of problems and are probably getting very very frustrated

Last edited by DavidUK1; 03-03-2009 at 02:35 AM.
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#93 (permalink) Old 03-03-2009, 01:15 PM
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Gordon
56Ohms is high, and about 26 is what I had on mine. Quite why it would be that high I don't know I can only think that it must be poorly manufactured. Anyway when your new one arrives check it with your meter before installing. Hope that that once fitted it's the end to your suspension dilemma.
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#94 (permalink) Old 03-09-2009, 09:33 AM
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Hi All,

Seems the solenoid for the drain valve was at fault, i received the new one and got the multimeter out, 26 Ohms. I had a horrible thought that when i checked the old one it was hard wired (plugs removed) and there may have been 12v going through it and therefore giving a false reading, checked for voltage and sure enough there was 12v, so i snipped the wires, removed the solenoid and checked, fortunately i still had the same 56 Ohm reading.

Fitted the new solenoid and hey presto... all working.

It does make you wonder though, i mean i spent around £500 on compressor and solenoid valves and it fails after around 2 months.

Cheers All,

Gordon.
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#95 (permalink) Old 03-09-2009, 09:45 AM
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Good, I am glad you resolved the issue without too much extra expense other than a lot of stress and time.
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#96 (permalink) Old 03-10-2009, 03:36 PM
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Oh well, no such luck.

Air sus warning light came on 4 times on the way home tonight.

Wits end, dunno what else to do.

I think it may be time to sell up and move on
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#97 (permalink) Old 03-11-2009, 03:01 AM
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Why THE F#%^ did they make such a mess out of this guys. I still don't understand.
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#98 (permalink) Old 03-11-2009, 10:00 AM
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Hi Zenedge
I feel for you after all that effort; you seem to be back at the beginning.
I am even more certain if/when I get air suspension probs I will convert to coils. It doesn't seem to be too expensive or too difficult.
G
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#99 (permalink) Old 03-12-2009, 01:05 PM
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Hi Gordon

After all that you have renewed I'd be tempted to continuity test and insulation test the cables from the control unit to the compressor unit. If that checks out ok then look at the control unit itself.
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#100 (permalink) Old 03-12-2009, 03:38 PM
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Hi Zenedge

I have all the same problems I first had a seised pump and I freed it off
I now cant get it to lower and all my connectors under the van are tip top so I am looking to the control unit
or a relay what relay it is i dont know any wireing diagrams would help

just added


I have just done a ohms test on the dump valve an it shows u/s
I could do with a old pump as I dont think you can get this part seperat

Last edited by paul-essex; 03-12-2009 at 04:12 PM.
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