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Old 07-06-2008, 05:00 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2008
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I'm going to use Flashing Tape in place of Dynamat. I've bought it to line the roof and side panels in the back. Do you think I'll need some closed cell foam or matting on top of that as well?
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Old 07-07-2008, 01:19 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed-O View Post
I'm going to use Flashing Tape in place of Dynamat. I've bought it to line the roof and side panels in the back. Do you think I'll need some closed cell foam or matting on top of that as well?
hey ed o, thats the stuff I used as I reckon it is as good as dyna mat and a darn sight cheaper! I would try the mat first then see what you think, I done the mat and carpet in my previous van and it worked well. I was warned not to use foam as it holds moisture and causes rust.
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Old 07-07-2008, 10:43 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Done the back of the van with Flashing and filled the voids with cavity wall insulation in the side doors, tailgate and behind panels above wheel arches. Haven't driven yet but sounds less boomy on the panels when tapped and doors sound more solid when I shut them. One problem though is that the tailgate drops part of the way down when I open it up now, due to the extra weight, so the insulation might have to come out of there.

6x9's should arrive tommorrow and I'll get going with the front doors. I'm not going to put insulation in the doors as I don't want to get water held in there, as apparently it can
come into the door from the window. Just flashing as you say Bazza, maybe if it needs it some acoustic damping material.
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Old 07-08-2008, 09:21 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Vehicle: '99 110CDI
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I will look into the flashing as well. Thinking about 5.25" instead of 6x9's. Would there be much difference in sound between the two?
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Old 07-08-2008, 03:03 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2006
Vehicle: Vito 110 CDi
Location: Sheffield, UK
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I'd recommend 6.5" components - drivers in the door, crossovers up under the dash and tweeters in the stock speaker locations. This will lift the treble out of the footwells and help project a better soundstage with clearer high end.

The doors allow you to cut holes and get about a 60mm mounting depth without hitting the window (when wound down).

I'd also recommend making some MDF rings to screw the speakers into. This limits deformation of the door card and will help reduce unwanted vibration and flex.

Anything bigger than stock is a worthwhile upgrade!
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Old 07-11-2008, 08:51 AM   #16 (permalink)
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New head unit and 6x9's in. It sounds awesome. The weight of the flashing and insulation in the tailgate makes it sag down from it's height when open so the insulation will be coming out. With the 6x9's I can't wind the front windows down all the way because the glass hits the speakers. I've got some stickers on the windows to remind me when to stop winding! Only about 2" of glass shows at full wind down and for the quality of sound I can live with it.
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Old 07-11-2008, 09:23 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I have fitted some FLI 4" speakers at the front and that has improved slightly. May go for slightly smaller speakers in the door though. Maybe 6.5" and the flashing tape.
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:45 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I changed my system immediately. the mercedes dash speakers were replaced with 4" mids, ball tweeters were installed on the A pillar at ear height, a pair of 6" fulls into the doors and a pair of Martin Audio W0.5 full range studio speakers went into the back top corners. Alpine Head Unit, 5 Stacker and Sony XPLOD 500watt amp

I had the interior fully lined as well.

It's always in the "ear of the beholder" - and you don't need to always spend big bucks, but dicing the factory speakers is worth doing ASAP.
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