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Coolant

5K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  MagMog 
#1 ·
There is a lot of talk on other maker forums about adding SCA (Supplimental Coolant Additive (Fw-16, DCA4)) to the cooling systems of diesel engines or they will die a premature death.

Then they also talk about ELCs (Extended Life Coolant (Organic Acid based) - Red and Orange coolants)) where you don't need any additives.

What about with Mercedes diesels? I've always just used the green stuff.
 
#2 ·
There is a lot written about this on the forum:
One example - http://www.benzworld.org/forums/unimog/2367793-engine-coolant.html
Do your research, keeping in mind snakeoil is the norm today.
MB recommends 1% anti-corrosive additive. That is what I would aim for. Unless you are pushing the limits of your engine design, pure water is best. Anything you add reduces the effectiveness of the cooling liquid. Also, do not change to an aluminum radiator unless you have no choice - aluminum radiators are inferior to copper/brass. The reason car manufactureres has gone to ali is purely for weight (fuel consumption) reasons.
All in all, the original MB recipe/design works best.
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
#6 · (Edited)
My advice to everyone - Please do your own research before deciding what will be best for your specific situation. Yes, the internet can indeed be your friend.
Evans is 70% Ethylene Glycol (common toxic antifreeze), 2% rust inhibitor, 0.5%water, and 26.5% Propylene Glycol (another common non-toxic antifreeze).
So, it is mostly a Glycol antifreeze.
It has about half the thermal capacity of water and half the thermal conductivity of water. So you really need to double the flow rate of your coolant system.
What it does have is improved thermal transfer from hot surfaces (above 100C) because it boils at 200C - so it may help with cooling cylinder liners at the spots where there is little/no oil cooling.
Myself, I am not pushing my engine to the point where the water is boiling, so I do not need to use it.
It may well work for some - but please make an informed and intelligent choice.

PS - good read http://www.lytron.com/Tools-and-Tec...-Best-Heat-Transfer-Fluids-for-Liquid-Cooling
 

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#7 ·
Got busy with other stuff and just getting back to this.

I am running Evans in my Supermoto KTM with a pretty hot engine, but that doesn't take very much of it. The no boil over part and supposed no corrosion claims made me try it, plus dirt bike guys who have run it report they like it. No problems so far but I haven't spent much time on the bike either. Last summer when it was really hot I did notice my temps getting high quickly when stopped at a stoplight, but they would go right back down when I started riding, so I don't think that has anything to do with the coolant. Not enough fan. They say you have to run their cleaner through first to get out the old coolant residue unless you are starting with a fresh engine. It would be pretty expensive to put in a Unimog, plus you are locked in and if you have trouble on the road servicing could be problematic.

I'll check out the info you guys offered. I'm not sure it is such a big deal but like I said they were acting like it was on other forums, particularly the Powerstroke guys.
 
#8 ·
I've heard that you do not want to run the new coolants designed for aluminum radiators if you have a brass/copper radiator and I believe vise versa.

I've tried the extended life coolant in old Dodges and I'm not sure if it really is that great considering what it looked like after a few years. The old green stuff seems to work pretty well in everything unless it is very new vehicle.
 
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