Help please, 404 has NO power & How to adjust timing on a 404?
hey all, I probably wont be able to fit my electronic ignition before I go away this weekend, so how do I check the timing on the engine? I have tried a timing light but it doesn't work because the wires are shielded.
I think that's what is wrong with it
anyway, I have to go back to first maybe second gear for most hills, there is no power in top gear (even on the flat I can't accellerate in top gear)
I have done the petronix ignition upgrade and set the timming, removed the cold air intake plate, aired up the tires to the max pressure and added a tach to see where I am revving the engine. I still don't have the power I should.
The next step for me is setting the valve lash wich is part of the routine maintenance. I am also getting rid of the oil bath air cleaner in replace of a paper filter which should flow easier.
I know mine is burning to rich right now and needs to be adjusted for the altitude. Perhaps yours could be to lean.
On a side note my timming light is only 12v, so I have to hook it up to a separate 12v battery and then ground the batter back to the frame of the mog.
Hope this helps. I should have some progress on mine to report this week.
Is your timing light the inductive type (clamps around the wire)? Loosen the nut on the #1 hole on the dissy cap and separate the shielding just slightly. That can sometimes give enough signal through the shielding to trigger the light. Otherwise you'll need an adapter. Make one out of a short (3") piece of heavily insulated wire. I use center conductor of coaxial cable and it works great.
My preferred way to set the timing is (with points) set the gap at spec. Then do a series of test drives. Adjust the timing earlier and if performance gets better, go again. If it gets worse, retard it. All 404's don't perform best at the same timing.
My guess is the timing might be too early all ready. It can run fine but then when the mechanical advance forces the timing earlier at high rpm, the timing gets much too early and the truck loses power. As I said, it can run great but runs out of power at the top end. Retard the timing a little.
BTW, it'll probably take more adjustment than is available at the F-S adjuster (which is only a fine-tune). The next adjustment is done with the 5 (or 6?) mm hex socket clamp that's behind the dissy, best accessed through the engine cover.
Chucked a spare filter in, ran some carby cleaner through it and it seems to be ok.
Will give it a proper clean out soon.
On the upside, I do have a tray full of XM27's
crap thats not good.
well I fitted my pertronix today and there is a noticable increase in 'poke' I'm going to change all the oils tomorrow, weld the top hoop back onto the headboard and take appart/clean up the carby.
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