Quote:
coachgeo - 12/1/2005 1:13 PM
it would be a 617A (A is for turbo) or a 617.95x. Mine is a 617.952 in the mog and a 617.951 in my 300SD. Same engine though.
If this swap was done via the Diseilization kit your talking about a kit that runs about 2500 dollars before install. It includes a new bellhousing that clocks the diesel engine 13 degrees to one side for better fit. It also uses stronger clutch from a G-Wagen.
Ask about the engine install. Was it a kit? Was it self made install etc.
Overall the 617 turbo installed in 404 is pretty much considered the cats meow of the readily available conversion options and its not that readily available.
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It is a kit. I saw some pics of the build and it did look quite professional.
Here are some comments written by the builder of the truck:
"In order to fulfill the reliability and drivability requirements, a freshly rebuilt 3 liter 5 cylinder turbo diesel engine was installed. It was mated to the Unimog transmission via the adaptor from "the German boys" and uses a Unimog clutch. The adapter tilts the engine 15 degrees to help clear the body and fit in the 2.2L's location."
"Keeping the body at stock height meant much work needed of the doghouse. To minimize this, I chose to replace the diesels massive oil filter to an equally massive, but remote, Amsoil duel bypass unit. Some folks have dealt with this problem by simply relocating the stock filter unit and housing using two blocks off plates with high-pressure hoses routed between them. Pros to this are simplicity, stock filtration system (which is also a duel bypass system!) and a temperature sensitive oil cooler port. Cons are finding a location suitable for the tall bulky filter housing, and retaining the stock filtration system. Amsoil does not make a kit to make this conversion. Although they will sell you the bypass filter unit, they have nothing to bolt up to the block at the stock filters location. I preferred the Amsoil unit for ease of mounting remotely, having a petcock for oil sampling, larger capacity filters with less pressure drop through them, and it looks cool. Doing this required creativity. After much thought, I came up with a design for a block-off plate which would include a port out to the oil filters, a port in from the oil cooler, and another port out to the turbo, as well as having provisions to install oil temp, oil pressure gauge and oil pressure warning lamp sending units. Oil temperature is measured as it comes in from the cooler and oil pressure is measured on its way to the turbo. A 1-inch thick aluminum plate was precision cut using a high-pressure water jet."
"For cooling, the Unimog radiator was rebuilt. Although the stock 4-row, horizontal finned unit was calculated to be adequate to cool the 3.0 liter diesel, I know of two conversion having trouble maintaining cool temperatures at highway speeds. Knowing this, and planning on having a winch and lights in front of the grill, I decided to increase the cooling capacity. The old core was replaced with a 5-row high efficiency 'Z' finned core. Additionally, an oil cooler was mounted on the radiators left side with provisions in the electrical harness to add an electric oil cooler fan if needed later. The oil cooler is an MB factory unit for the 300 TD and was plumbed after the oil filters and before the turbo."
"Additionally, I wanted to relocate the stock coolant expansion tank on the dash to give more room for accessories in the cab. So a pressure cap was installed on the radiator with an overflow line into a coolant recovery tank - which is simply a modified Unimog windshield washer tank mounted on the right side of the radiator. I was extremely lucky here. When the pressure cap was installed, I paid no attention to the clearance between radiator and hood. Turns out, I have about 3mm clearance with cap installed (whew!). An expansion tank still needs to be installed. How does it work? The engine temperature reaches no more than 210'F at all speeds and, so far, even on hot days. Oil temp however has reached 280'F on prolonged highway driving and may have kept climbing but I slowed to let it cool. Low speed trail runs on hot days have not been a problem. The local GURU on these and other German vehicles says not to worry about that temp at all and sites air-cooled VWs running oil temps in the mid to high 300's! Adding a fan to the cooler may not be a way to increase cooling since the oil gets hot when the air is flowing through it fast and is cool with little airflow. So for now I'm keeping a pretty close eye on that gauge, and I'll try changing to different oils in the future. After break-in, synthetics are going in and they have more tolerance to high temperatures anyway. Someone also mentioned to me that once the engine breaks in, there will be less resistance and therefore less heat, so it may take care of itself."
End - Again, anything in italics is from the owner.
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