Here is what I have. Also here is a an UGLY not to scale adaption of one of Michael Chev..'s drawings of a 404 expedion vehicle. I added the changes to the end of the radio box.
Now that ugly adaption on the end of the radio box is supose to protrude only about the width of a single bed (30ish inches). Under neath the bed is where a small bike (trials bike, Rokon, ATV??) is stored.
How well is a Radioboxed Mog balanced? Another words when designing my expedition camper how balanced is it all ready?
. Is it nose or tail heavy?
. If the balance of weight is not 50/50 is this designed this way to be an advantage? (I have a hard cab)
This information will help me to decide where to put water tanks, Generator, *spare tire etc. when it comes to weight distrabution.
. How much do u think the upper 3 foot tail and below storage of an ATV weigh? (steel frame, Aluminum? skin.) Shown in the pics above.
I to hope to help reduce weight of the whole thing by reskinning the whole radio box with a lighter material that can take tree limb abuse etc., but is affordable Suggestions? Aluminum?
Side note. For the spare tire one thought is build a ROP rack above the top of my cab. Mount the spare tire atop this over the drivers head. Over the passenger's head is a Hatch (I have a hard cab) that will be left usable. I have a Flatbed also so having the tire on the cab means when I switch off the camper/radiobox for the flatbed the spare stays on the Mog.
Does anyone know of products that could lesson the amount of water one would need to carry? For example is their a product out there usable for bathing that takes little to no water. Like say a super duper babywhipe. I already am planning a no water use toilet.
Thanx in advance.
UPDATE. I am also looking into injecting gray water into the exhaust after the turbo to burn it off.
So far I have all the underside (out side of frame rails) filled with fuel tanks. These will be needed IMHO. (presently about 80 gal) No room for spare in stock location.
no water toilet; = .h.t in a ditch.[;)] we have never carried water on holidays. only some for drinking and cooking. when we needed a bath we get in glaciercold blue water, roll over in the snow or just waited to return home.[xx(] after some weeks not washed you have not any trouble with musquitos or other bugs. not even bordered by people in crowdy malls.[^] when its -20 below celcius you can use all the grease you can garther for isulation and warmth.
o yeah, a link to a homemade shelter from plywood and glasfiber/epoxy. it should be half the weight of a original steel shelter
no water toilet; = .h.t in a ditch.[;)] we have never carried water on holidays. ...
Thanks for the info. Im trying to design this for travel thru long trips (Months)in the hard to find back country of the US and some into Mexico and Canada too so I need to carry a good water suply. Besides that I hope to vist along the way with 4wd clubs and publish articles about the venture. Don't want to turn off [xx(]new friends rather they are up or down wind of me [8D]
Also the no water toilet will use a special powdered product that I sale that breaks human waste down very effeciently and renders it non toxic. You can throw the material away a trash can legally.
Sounds like you're trying to reinvent the washcloth?
If a spongebath uses too much water I think the French
use perfume. :-)
-Dave
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Try dehydrated water. Just add water and you're good to go. John.
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Coach,
The only products that come to mind are:
1) waterless alcohol-based hand cleaners used in the health care field
2) waterless hand cleaners avalable from automotive stores
3) the baby wipe routine
4) any of the high quality water filtration/purification systems used by backpakers. Obviously, you must have some source for water even if you are not carrying it.
We did a test a couple of years ago using a one gallon fine mist garden sprayer. You can take a brief but refreshing full body shower with less
than one gallon of water. How much potable water you carry all depends on what you have planned for each excursion. Hope this helps. Take care.
Jim Molloy
Waldersee Farm
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A rag, a bar of soap, and a jug of water can do wonders...
Really, how far out in the boonies do you plan on going? We do weeklong trips to the Nevada desert almost every summer and I have never run dry
on water for cooking or bathing... Rule of thumb is a gallon per person per day, a few jerry-cans cans on the roof will take care of that pretty
easily. Realistically its pretty hard these days to go anywhere in North America and not come across a place with water unless you are sitting on your ass on a dry lake bed...
Those pre-packaged baby wipes in a plastic tub are pretty handy too, but then you have the trash problem. Hokan introduced me to the industrial
strength version that will clean even the greasiest mechanics hands..
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Zach-->...Those pre-packaged baby wipes in a plastic tub are pretty handy too, but then you have the trash problem..... Coach---> Fire starter, burn the rest. Dont see a toxin issue burning these
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Coach:
Well, I'm sure this is just as obvious as it comes, but I'd suggest your expedition camper have separate potable and non-potable water supplies.
The use of a water purifier--Seagull perhaps makes the best units but even a Pur unit from Costco will do--means that you won't *have* to fill your tank with potable water. A carefully chosen purifier lets you make good use of water you can't drink, even if it came from a lake or stream. Use the purified water just for drinking and rinsing dishes and the amount of good water you need is very small. (And if you just drink beer and use paper plates, you've eliminated the problem entirely. Keep your mouth closed in the shower, though. :D
As I say, that was pretty obvious, but one thing some might not realize is that water stored in a tank can get pretty nasty unless you devote substantial time to filling, draining and treating what you're carrying. Also not obvious is that the spouts on the small RV faucets won't mate to the threads on common faucet-mounted purifier units. You could plumb in a canister purifier, of course, at the cost of some time. (Though once the camper's built, it may be flat-out impossible for normal-sized hands to get to the fittings; ask me how I know this. <g>)
But if you're willing to periodically dump a gallon or so of your big tank's water into a two-compartment purifier (where the nasty water goes on top and filters down to a lower compartment with a spigot), the water comes out tasty and safe and you can worry about tank maintenance just once a year or
so.
Mike Hiscox
'77/'95 416 DoKa Expedition Camper
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I had not considered the Pur filters as a camping device, we have one in the house but I never bothered to look and see how fine of a filter they use. We use it mainly to get the grit out of the well water.
Check out some of the backpacker sites for reviews on portable water purifiers, if you are planning on going to the Central American boondocks and wont have access to bottled water you need to get one of these. Trust me on that, I grew up down there and I know from experience what giardia can do to your gastrointestinal tract! The backpacker quality ones will filter out water-borne nasties, they have replaceable elements and some can be reverse-flushed if they get clogged.
Also, strictly speaking "gray water" is the stuff that comes out of the sink, I suppose a good filter could remove the soap scum and toothepaste froth, but even then would you really want to drink it? ;)
-Zach
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I am using a 40 gallon water tank in my radio box camper. This is more than enough for 14 days plus with 2 people plus a dog. Much more than 14 days in most environments "unsupported" (no resupply) is going to get challenging in every environment. And I'm not speaking strictly of water...diet starts to get bland, etc, etc.
Even better, a 40 gallon tanks dimensions (roughly 48" long") are perfect for a bench which would turn into a bed. My water tank lives under one of the benches. One on either side of the camper with a table that drops into the "gap" between makes for a roughly double size bed.
My 1300L's handling does not differ in the slightest with empty, full or half-full water tank. a 404? No idea.
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Zach-->strictly speaking "gray water" is the stuff that comes out of the sink, I suppose a good filter could remove the soap scum and toothepaste froth, but even then would you really want to drink it? ;)
Kimball--->Yes that is gray water, and no you wouldn't want to drink it without going thru a sanitization process. Re-use of gray water is typically limited to watering you grass and flushing toilets. I'd look else where for water sources or savings.
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Go to your nearest hunting or camping supply, military surplus. The Army has used these things for years, and a lot of guys at my hunting also have versions of larger "wipes" for those waterless days....
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The baby wipes, available at Wal-Mart etc. are ok. I hunted for 13 days last year without bathing, using only wipes. You wouldn't have known it. Used less then 20 gallons of water total, and could have cut that down if I hadn't needed to do dishes disposable stuff). I was concerned with bears so wanted to lower my trash amount.
Clark in Oceanside
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I use water purifiers a lot on extended back pack trips. They work well but are intended to fill a couple water bottles at a time, not a holding tank. One of the best suppliers is Katadyn(Germany with lots of NA stores stocking them). The size that would be suitable for a camper can be viewed at:
The site has very good info on filtering/purifying etc. They are expensive, but if you can't carry enough water and the local brew is a health concern they are probable the best choice.
Diesel Dave
...This information will help me to decide where to put water tanks, Generator, *spare tire etc. when it comes to weight distrabution.
. How much do u think the upper 3 foot tail and below storage of an ATV weigh? (steel frame, Aluminum? skin.) Shown in the pics above.
I to hope to help reduce weight of the whole thing by reskinning the whole radio box with a lighter material that can take tree limb abuse etc., but is affordable Suggestions? Aluminum?
Side note. For the spare tire one thought is build a ROP rack above the top of my cab. Mount the spare tire atop this over the drivers head. Over the passenger's head is a Hatch (I have a hard cab) that will be left usable. I have a Flatbed also so having the tire on the cab means when I switch off the camper/radiobox for the flatbed the spare stays on the Mog.
Some MogMail responces.
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Coach--->HÃ¥kan was it you that said the total weight of the steel sheets is around 350lb? What would the aluminum weigh I wonder?
HÃ¥kan----> Off hand, I dont know the weight of steel
The stuff I used is .03" prepainted sheet aluminum, Manufactured for semi-trailers and truck bodies. Discounting the paint coating, From there you can figure out the weight. I did not reskin the roof or doors,
It's available in 54"x unlimited lengths(at least whatever the coil length is,,) It can make for seamless sheets on the radio-box walls. I think there is available wider material intended for Semi-trailer roofs too. I did not bother to find out as I was not re-roofing.
HÃ¥kan
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Hi guys-
Many of the semi trailers are put together with a double-sided tape! This tape is so strong (at least in the samples I played with) that you would damage the material to get them apart. This does solve the dissimilar metal problem. On Land Rovers (all Al skin), everything is painted or uses plastic (nylon?) washers to keep things apart.
When I had a radio box, I think I calculated a 300 - 500 lb weight savings in going to Al. All this would depend on the thickness of the Al skin (remember, it's not as strong) and how much steel sub-frame is there. I guess one could also use Al square tubing... ($$$)
Steel has a density ~7.8 grams/cc or .283 lbs/in3... Aluminum is about .1pounds/in3 (2.7 g/cc)
...Better yet -
http://www.apo.nmsu.edu/Telescopes/SDSS/eng.papers/19950926_ConversionFactors/19950926_MProperties.html
Kelly Minnick
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Jack Russle --->The fire fighting packages we used on Unimogs that were built here in the states by Beck Fire and Boise Mobile Equipment, used a double pan compartment door, with steel outer skin and aluminum inner pan. These were all done using double sided tape. The system results in an amazingly strong bond, even in accident damage the bond never fails.
Great stuff. In this case it allowed the builders to reduce weight by switching from a steel skin on steel pan welded system to a steel skin on aluminum pan. Comparable, or greater strength, reduced weight and a lot less labor to build and individual door.
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Coach--->I have heard of glues like this but not the tape. Anyone ever seen a source for tape like this?
Jack Russle----> Not retail, but any large industrial adhesives and fastening house will have a variety. 3M describes a number of theirs on their web site.