Up for sale is my 1987 190e 2.3-16 with 136k. $10,500 obo. Life priorities have shifted and so time for a new lucky owner! I’ve had a 16v in my life since 1997 so I know a bit about these cars. Hundreds of hours spent on this car!
I bought this car in 2005 in Alabama from the second owner, and the original owner was in the Atlanta area. I had it in the Baltimore and southern PA area. It’s never seen salt or snow, and has been mostly garaged during my ownership. No rust on this car except a bit of surface rust under the battery tray and a few small rock chips. The body is super straight, never been in an accident as far as I can tell.
The title is clear. The car has been repainted once before I bought it and it looks nice minus the hood, roof, and the top of the left front fender, which are sun damaged in a few spots. The body kit is complete down to the tow hook cover and it’s the original finish. The rear of the right rocker molding has a small crack next to the jack cover. The front windshield is surface scratched in a few spots, no cracks, see pics. The spoiler has the typical bubbling near the ends but isn’t very noticeable. It has Hella euro lights with the euro dark amber turn signals. The left headlight had a small bullseye rock chip that was repaired with epoxy.
It is not your average 16v, having undergone quite a bit of restoration and upgrading outlined below. I’m a former MB dealer tech, and did most of the work myself.
It received a complete motor rebuild about 2k miles ago. All machine work, piston/rod/crank fitting and assembly, and performance head job were done by VAC Motorsports in Philadelphia (VAC Motorsport
). Over $5,000 spent just there! They are a mainly BMW performance shop that does a lot of E30 M3 race motors among others, so they really know their stuff! The block machine work was carried out with a torque plate. Totally bone dry post assembly, no leaks. Specs below:
- CP 11:1 pistons
- Carillo rods with upgraded bolts
- VAC E30 M3 dual valve springs
- Mild porting
- 2.5-16 cams out of low km motor from Germany
- ARP head studs
- OEM head gasket and all new gaskets and seals
- All new guides, timing chain, idler and crank gears
- New oil pump
- New tensioner
- PS pump rebuilt
- New Nissens radiator, new water pump, new hoses, new Behr heater core, new coolant reservoir, MB coolant
- Oil cooler lines replaced with new custom made lines
- Valve cover powder coated
- Various new small parts I'm forgetting
Converted to EFI using VEMS. VEMS has a built-in wide-band O2, works great. The tune is fairly good now, but could use some more tuning and dyno time would benefit it of course. VEMS has a great interface and a good, friendly and helpful community, a great EFI system to have. Cold start isn’t fully sorted so you have to keep you foot on the gas for the first 10-15 seconds if it’s cooler out, after that it idles fine.
- New matched Bosch 380cc injectors
- Silvercosworth injector adaptors
- Modified Saab fuel rail
- Custom wiring harness using labeled, multicolor TXL high temp OEM grade wiring, heat shrink etc. (wiring diagram included). It looks OEM and utilizes the MB cloth tape.
- New coolant and air temp sensors
- E36 throttle body
- Custom shortened intake manifold
- Custom intake
The interior is in good condition overall. It has 1993 sportline seats in good condition (with rear headrests) and a swapped euro center console. No cracks, holes, or excessive wear. The heater core is new. The A/C could be made to work, all there, but not charged at the moment. The rear seats are in great shape, no typical seam separation. There is a split seam in the passenger seat bottom, the thread snapped, it’s an easy fix. The door panels are all in good shape, with some very slight edge lifting in a few spots. It currently has a dark brown crack-free dash. Not noticeable unless you really look. Very hard to tell them apart unless they are side by side and cleaned up. Swapping out a dash is a two hour job so not a big deal if it bothers you and you find a nice black dash. It has a euro gauge pod, no lap timer. The voltage and oil temp gauges work well. No radio currently, just listen to the motor!
The wheels are CLK lightweight takeoffs, 2k miles on them, with 205/50/16 Toyo Proxes tires which are about two years old and also have the same mileage. The car has the SLS deleted and has Bilstien sports all around with 16v Eibach springs in the front and cut SL500 springs in the back. The ride is firm but comfortable and controlled. The front sway bar is off a 500E. The front suspension was redone 15k ago with new ball joints, tie rods, drag link, idler bushing, and wheel bearings. The suspension overall feels quite good.
The front brakes were updated to E420 four-piston brakes, the rear brakes are stock. The brake lines are braided Earl’s lines. ATE super blue used. A new stock clutch kit was installed 15k ago. I replaced the clutch slave cylinder, master cylinder, master cylinder feeder hose, and transmission flexible hose as well as the flex discs when I had the engine out for the engine rebuild.
The transmission was resealed, it shifts great, no issues at all. The shifter is rebuilt with brass shifter bushings and the shifter forks were lengthened by an inch, so it has a shorter throw than stock. Feels great, the way MB should have made it! The shift rod bushings were also replaced.
The differential is the stock 3.27 LSD, slight whine noticeable at highway speeds, been that way since I bought the car. I’ve always used Redline in the transmission and differential. The exhaust is custom, no cat, two resonators and a muffler. Free flowing but not obnoxious, fairly quiet unless you're on the throttle hard. It doesn't bother me on the highway.
Mechanically the only thing the car could use would be new front pads and rotors, as the current ones are slightly warped and there is a bit of a steering wheel vibration when braking hard at 65 mph+. It’s totally safe to drive as is, and I would have no reservations about driving it anywhere.
For tuning the car I was using a windows based netbook, works great. Any windows based laptop with USB should work fine. All you would need to do is download the driver for the USB to serial adaptor that is included with the car and download VEMStune, the tuning software interface, both free downloads. After that you’re able to change whatever variables you want, from what temp the engine fan comes on to redline fuel cut and of course fuel and ignition values. It’s pretty great to have full control over the motor! The VEMS unit has tons of features I didn’t use, and could easily support a turbo or whatever else you wanted to do with the car. The build is well documented so you won't have any trouble with replacement parts for the parts used or figuring out the wiring.
I moved out to Iowa last summer and the car has been in a garage ever since making the trip out here (no snow or salt, I have a DD for that). If the 16v is not sold by mid-June, I will drive it down to my parents place in FL and that’s where it will stay garaged until sold. Actually, mid-June I would be able to deliver the vehicle basically anywhere in the US if that helps someone. This is a great highway car, and I got 31mpg on my trip out here cruising 75mph! Mpg will go up a bit with some miles on the engine, and the tune can be tweaked some more too, may be able to get 35mpg highway?! No issues driving it anywhere.
Lots of pics! Most were taken yesterday, some last November. What you see is what you get!
16v Slideshow | Photobucket
16v Slideshow 2 | Photobucket