Hey guys, first post here, just wanted to share some pics from an ABC valve block that I resealed recently
The same valve blocks can be found in CL500 CL55 CL600 CL65 S500 S55 S65 Sl65 SL600 SL500 with ABC suspension
So I helped a friend of mine with a 2004 SL55 reseal one of his ABC valve blocks. His car would lower the front end after sitting for a few hours. He had tried getting the fluid flushed and new filter but it didn't help. He asked me to take pictures along the way so I thought I would share.
First step was to remove the valve block from the vehicle. I didn't take any pictures along the way but these are the tools I used minus a 17mm and breaker bar to remove the LF wheel
Be sure to clean the surrounding area really well before removal to avoid getting any dirt into the lines
Here is the valve block out of the car, excuse the paint markings in the wrong spot as I quickly put the valves back in for a picture but put in opposite spots lol
First step is to remove the plastic clips that hold the valves together. How I usually do this is to release one tab on one valve and turn it out of position so I don't have to fiddle with two sides at once, the turned side will be off of the lock tab that holds the clip in place. Here is an overhead view, notice it is only slightly turned. If you turn it too much it will be difficult to remove the clip.
Once it is slightly turned I use a small screwdriver to push the clip out of the way and place another small screwdriver under the base of the clip to put a little pressure upwards
From there I leave one screwdriver underneath the clip and then loosen the clip on the other side of where that screwdriver is. once you push the clip off the lock it tends to move up and then I put the little screwdriver underneath and work it up from side to side
Do the same for the other pair of valves. For the locking valves I use my hand for the upward pressure as the clip is in the middle of the valves. From here you can rotate the valves 90 degrees on the control valves and about 45 degrees on the locking valves and then they can be pulled out of the valve block.
The big O-rings at the base of valves just seal outside moisture and such from getting in, They are not under hydraulic pressure so if they look a little dry it's OK. I have seen the tall ones replaced by using two O-rings, or using one O-ring and a small bead of silicone around the outside. Either way works.
I have never replaced or seen replaced the fat greenish blue O-ring on the shaft of the locking valve, I usually give everything a good cleaning and put the plungers back in with some new hydraulic fluid as lubricant. The springs on the plungers can be removed, I squeeze them to get a feel of strength, never had to replace them, I usually give them a little stretch to make just a hair longer incase they have become compressed over time.
Inspect the white teflon spacers for any kind of damage, these rings don't offer any sealing, they mainly offer support to the sealing O-ring to help keep it in place. If they are damaged they can be replaced with rubber o-ring. The rings on these valves were in good shape so They just got a good cleaning with a tooth brush and a little solvent.
Here is a few pictures of the valves with their respective seals that will be getting installed after the valves receive a thorough cleaning. I didn't take pictures but I always like to apply power to the control valves in both directions and run solvent both ways through the passages just incase some gunk is caught up inside the valve. Also be sure and thoroughly clean the aluminum housing to get all old fluid and debris out of it.
The O-ring kit was purchased by a user on Ebay, you can search ABC valve block seal kit, they have them with and without the square spacer o-rings.
After it is all cleaned up and new O-rings installed it's time to put the valves back in. I use plenty of new hydraulic oil to lubricate the valve with o-rings as well as the valve block itself. I always try and turn the valves in clockwise, sometimes the valve comes loose from housing turning the opposite way. Take your time putting them in to ensure you don't pinch an o-ring.
Once all valves are in place it's time to put the clips back on. Simply push the clips in between the valves and down into position.
Double check you have 14 old o-rings and no new o-rings on your workbench. After that put the valve block back in the car.