All, I'm trying to figure out where to lift my 05 SL55. It has jack pads in the rear but not in the front. I don't know if they are missing or just not there.
When I try to lift the car from the front, the rocker panel cover collapses.
I'm hoping that someone can help with the following:
1) Location where to place two post lift arms
2) Part # for Jack pads
I've looked and looked and looked with no luck on the part #
Mercedes W124 R129 W208 W210 W215 W220 Jack Pad Set 4
(Check these out on Ebay, our R230 use these too)
You should have 4 of these cone shaped jack points, behind the front wheels, and forward of the rear wheels. And then I use jack pads from reverselogic.us/ that fits over the "cones". Without the reverselogic pads, the factory cones can get beat up, or missing.
A little OCD here, but I use the reverselogic "cup" pads on the car, and a hockey puck on the jack cradle . I like to have the cup pads available for tire shops, other garages to use as needed.
Front, look for center rectangular jack point, use a hockey puck on your floor jack cradle/saddle. Be sure to chock the rear wheels. I use jack stands with a flat cradle and jack pads on the rubber/plastic jack points. Rear, go with the differential, spread the load with a piece of 2x4, chock the front wheels. I prefer not to lift all 4 points on jack stands at the same time, and I keep the floor jack or a bottle jack engaged as backup when working under the car.
Thank you, only option at my local wholesaler is URO so I will hold off until I order from the one in Cali which has Febi pads. In the meanwhile, I'll use the factory jack and raise at the jack point.
jack stands can go under the control arms in the front after you've used the jack on the pads. I'm yet to jack up the back so I haven't looked at that.
Ha! I needed to get all four wheels off the ground to do the famous Park locking fix.
I measured the dia. of the jacking point tubes and found 3/4" to be the largest bars I could fit. I lifted the car via the four jacking points and fitted four solid steel bars about 10" long fully into each jack point and a jack stand as close to the body as I could.
After doing the job upon lowering the car I found all four of the solid 3/4" steel bars bent about 1"
This car is heavy 4500 lbs. "Super Car" faster than a speeding bullet strong enough to bend solid steel bars…
DON'T use steel bars!!!! I use 3/4"-10x9" (total length is 9 1/2") grade 8 bolts. They cost only $6.46 each plus $5.00 shipping from Zoro Tools online. Free shipping with $50.00 minimum purchase.
Thank You, Thank You Cyglee! Hockey Pucks! I have been afraid to use the front center lift point but the Hockey Puck works great. Now I can safely put my car on jack stands without damage.
For those of us without a hydraulic lift, once you learn to use the center jack points and support the corners with jack stands, it's a piece of cake to raise the SL for work. Here's a WIS doc for the center jack points:
This is for the W209 CLK, but it's the same on the SL. Note that the rubber block for the front center jack point protrudes through the lower engine cover, so there's no need to remove that paneling before jacking. You will need a very low-profile jack to reach all the way under the bumpers and the these jack points. On mine, I use ABC to raise the vehicle so my jack fits better under the bumpers.
Once an end is lifted, I place jack stands under the "pucks" on the sides of the frame, directly under the covers for the emergency jack receptacles. If you are missing any of these pucks, they are very inexpensive:
I can have the SL (or any modern MBZ like this) fully lifted in about 5 minutes. I pulled the transmission on my CLK like this. I needed about 22 inches of clearance, so i lifted in two phases - once to get the whole car about 18 inches off the ground (the limit of my floor jack) on jack stands, then I had to support the jack to raise it an additional 4 inches.
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