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R230 Knowledge Base Links

104K views 22 replies 20 participants last post by  wallyo 
#1 · (Edited)
Greetings: I've volunteered to organize the collective ABC (and other) intelligence in this forum into a maintenance/repair 'sticky' which will also include other general-interest items for the R230.

Please share the most useful threads/material you know of in this thread (I'll take care of cleanup) or just PM them to me. I've a passionate lust for the R230 but I'm no expert and my knowledge of ABC stems chiefly from ownership of a W215 CL500 (I also own a W209 CLK which, mercifully, has no ABC). I expect that most of you have already seen the collection of ABC threads we've organized in the W215 forum.

Considering buying? Get the car you're considering checked out before shelling out your money, and if you get an extended warranty, make sure it covers the ABC system including struts, pump, etc.

I will rely on the experience and expertise of everyone in this forum and look forward to getting the most important issues accounted for and organized for everyone's future reference. Thanks!

_________________________________________

ABC-Related Threads

ABC pump replacement

ABC valve cleaning DIY

Bad strut or bad block?

Replacing Rear Struts

SL500 ABC Problem

ABC Pulsation Dampener/Damper

ABC Fluid & Filter Change DIY

Another DiY ABC Fluid & Filter Change

Importance of ABC fluid changes

ABC Troubleshooting GuideDirect Offsite Link

ABC pump — remove and install DIY

R230 ABC Rear Valve Block / Accumulator Removal

Rebuilding Valve Block — Depressurizing and Torque specs

ABC: Change the front and rear pressure reservoirs (Accumulators)

ABC Pump — Information/Change/Part Number/Leaking (Pics + Vid)

_______________________________________

General-Interest Maintenance & Repair Threads

Balance Shaft / Idler Sprocket Info (W209 Forum)

SL Convertible Top Hydraulic Malfunction

SL500 Retractable Roof Problem

Rear Window Side Trim

Power Steering Fluid DIY

Transmission Flush / Fluid Exchange

Defective Transmission Control (VGS) — Conductor Plate Replacement

Lower control arm bushings

Help with disabling the TPMS

Technical Training Materials — PDF Repository

SBC and NHTSA / SBC pump and controller (W211)

Brake Pad Replacement Warnings & References

R230 Front Rotors and Pads Swap — with Pictures


R230 Fuses and Relays

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BenzWorld Member-Recommended Independent Repair Shops

PS: And for God's sake, people, when someone goes out of his way to help you with a problem, have the decency to thank him or at least hit the 'Like' button. Way too many people vanish after their problem was solved without even saying thanks.
 
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#2 ·
hi,

can anybody post a detailed diagram of the ABC system inside the r230?

i have a knocking vibration sound that comes intermitently from the front valve bloc, i have replaced the pressure accumulator. now the sound is a bit gentler and it takes about one hour of driving to start surfacing. it comes and goes when driving every minute or so when the road is bumpy it tends to come up more often. Any suggestion is much appreciated
 
#3 ·
ABC

I have changed a pump on my ABC and can't say it was that hard.

If you look at it like a power steering pump with electric valves off to dampers / shock absorbers that open to pump it up and 'volume controls' on the suspension for the computer to know where the car is and the same on the dampers to know where they are.

Facts I have learnt...

The radiator needs to come off and the pump is taken out to the the front

Pressures are extremely high but drop to workable levels when the engine is off for about 10 mins (de-pressurising the system)

The banjo o rings look manufactured into the metal - they arent - just normal rings, pick them out with a pin.

Buy Mercedes as they are special material and are sized so that the fluid pressure causes them to seal and only cost £4 / $4 total

get 1 off 0289976648 for the electric valve seal
and 4 off 0289976548 for the banjos

I don't think its a good idea to start the car with wheels jacked up - mine pumped and pumped to try and 'find the ground' and leaked out of a joint - if raised the pump is supposed to turn off - mine doesn't but this is probably because I have lowering rods so the ECU cant 'see' its jacked up.

Just keep topping up the tank and the pump bleeds itself. raise and lower 5 or 10 times too.

Not done any dampers/shock absorbers but I believe what happens with these is you change them as any other - but air will be introduced into that leg that needs to be bled out

Lower level on dipstick is engine running upper is engine off

Febi s6161 is an alternative suitable fluid
 
#5 ·
Rear struts

I replaced the rear struts on my 2003 SL500 over the weekend. A few things I can post that may be helpful:

1) Got rebuilt struts from Arnott Industries https://www.arnottindustries.com/search-Products/index.asp?make=18&model=67&year=145

2) Before I started, I removed Fuse #'s f-13 and f-46 for the ABC system

3) Reviewed the video from Strutmasters on how to remove them. Mercedes SL 500 With An Air Suspension Conversion By Strutmasters / Rear Install Video - YouTube

Follow the steps in the video! Once you are under there, it appears that there are different ways to take it apart, but something always gets in the way. Just follow the steps and you will save yourself some aggravation.

4) There is a point in the video when you remove the Control Arm from the hub. In the video it looks fairly simple, but in my case it took quite a bit of leverage to separate them. When you do separate them, there is a bushing on the hub that makes it difficult to put the control arm back in place later. Simply tap the bushing away from the opening that the control arm goes in and it will save you some time when re-assembling.

5) additionally, when you reconnect the "quick disconnect" for the hydraulic fluid on each strut, make sure it is seated well. There is a dust cover that makes you have to push in fairly hard to get the right connection.

6) I used the hydraulic fluid drains at each wheel to drain out the fluid in all four struts, then an oil vacuum to remove the rest of the fluid from the reservoir so I could put fresh hydraulic fluid in the reservoir.

7)I reversed the process and put the rebuilt struts in place, hooked up the electronics, replaced the fluid in the reservoir and put the fuses back in.

8) When I turned on the car, I got the red ABC warning that the car was too low. After a few minutes the car raised on its own, but one of the quick disconnects in the back came off and I had fluid all over the place (hence my earlier warning). I cleaned up, reconnected and tried again. The car raised up, but I still had an error. While it was driveable, the feature to raise and lower did not work.

I read a bulletin that Mercedes Benz recommends calibrating the struts after replacing any of them. I have a friend with a Universal OBD II machine, and it allowed us to get into the computer and run the rodeo test, as well as the calibration. We also cleared the codes. Afterward, I checked the fluid level and it was down somewhat, so I re-filled the reservoir. All in, it took 4.5 cans of the pentosin hydraulic fluid chf 11s to get the level correct.

The car started, adjusted itself, all the ABC functions were normal with no codes and the car rides so much better.

Hope this helps for any other DIY people. Good Luck!
 
#6 ·
I replaced the rear struts on my 2003 SL500 over the weekend. A few things I can post that may be helpful:

1) Got rebuilt struts from Arnott Industries https://www.arnottindustries.com/search-Products/index.asp?make=18&model=67&year=145

2) Before I started, I removed Fuse #'s f-13 and f-46 for the ABC system

3) Reviewed the video from Strutmasters on how to remove them. Mercedes SL 500 With An Air Suspension Conversion By Strutmasters / Rear Install Video - YouTube

Follow the steps in the video! Once you are under there, it appears that there are different ways to take it apart, but something always gets in the way. Just follow the steps and you will save yourself some aggravation.

4) There is a point in the video when you remove the Control Arm from the hub. In the video it looks fairly simple, but in my case it took quite a bit of leverage to separate them. When you do separate them, there is a bushing on the hub that makes it difficult to put the control arm back in place later. Simply tap the bushing away from the opening that the control arm goes in and it will save you some time when re-assembling.

5) additionally, when you reconnect the "quick disconnect" for the hydraulic fluid on each strut, make sure it is seated well. There is a dust cover that makes you have to push in fairly hard to get the right connection.

6) I used the hydraulic fluid drains at each wheel to drain out the fluid in all four struts, then an oil vacuum to remove the rest of the fluid from the reservoir so I could put fresh hydraulic fluid in the reservoir.

7)I reversed the process and put the rebuilt struts in place, hooked up the electronics, replaced the fluid in the reservoir and put the fuses back in.

8) When I turned on the car, I got the red ABC warning that the car was too low. After a few minutes the car raised on its own, but one of the quick disconnects in the back came off and I had fluid all over the place (hence my earlier warning). I cleaned up, reconnected and tried again. The car raised up, but I still had an error. While it was driveable, the feature to raise and lower did not work.

I read a bulletin that Mercedes Benz recommends calibrating the struts after replacing any of them. I have a friend with a Universal OBD II machine, and it allowed us to get into the computer and run the rodeo test, as well as the calibration. We also cleared the codes. Afterward, I checked the fluid level and it was down somewhat, so I re-filled the reservoir. All in, it took 4.5 cans of the pentosin hydraulic fluid chf 11s to get the level correct.

The car started, adjusted itself, all the ABC functions were normal with no codes and the car rides so much better.

Hope this helps for any other DIY people. Good Luck!

You bet this helps with other DIY folks. Thanks very much.
 
#9 ·
Its over a year - I can't particularly remember

but I do remember quite easily taking the fans and shroud off as well as the pulley and being annoyed there still was not enough room. Also the pump wont go up, not enough clearance and aircon is below

Seem to remember the rad hose in the way then when that came off the connection was in way.

Still remains whether you choose/feel the need to take the Rad off it isnt a particularly complicated job and one I would have never paid 1000s at Mercedes to have fixed.
 

Attachments

#10 ·
ABC lines 2003 sl500

The hydraulic line from the connection marked "P" on the front valve block blew out dumping fluid all over the underside of the car. Where does that line go to and is it possible to change it without to much trouble or expense? If that's possible, what is the part # for that line (hose)?
 
#12 · (Edited)
OK - so for the knowledge base suggestions please post below

The following are the ones I have got links for:

PDF Repository
Petrol Baffle DIY
ABC Fluid Change DIY
ABC Valve Cleaning
Bluetooth
Damp PSE
Adding a Spare Tyre Kit
ABC Knowledge
Front Driver Strut Removal
Can I Update Command?
ABC Rear Valve Block/Accumulator Removal
Does Your Siren Go Off By Itself?
Stuck In Park?
Stuck GloveBox?
Centre Console Broken?
Buyers Guide
Washer Reservoir Fix
Window Adjustment DIY
Roof Flap
CPS DIY
Rear Battery
PSE Pump DIY
Get into Stuck boot
Broken Interior Door Handle DIY
Open Stuck Gas Door
 
#13 ·
#17 ·
Here is some INFO on SDS Xentry version 9/2015 These are the Menu options that you see when using it. Thought it maybe good information to post here. Other versions maybe different but at least it gives people an idea of what it looks like. I apologize if its been posted elsewhere. For those of you that have experience with using it and would like to make additions/comments feel free.


Mercedes star diagnostics menu system. Xentry Version 9/2015

1.Quick test
2.Functions performed by more then 1 control unit.
3.Control Units
4.Diagnosis of the internal systems
5.Entry of order data (Repair order/dealer information)
6.Entry of retrofits and modifications.
******************************************************************************************

1. Quick test (checks the following systems.) Runs them all in sequence. Not Individually. select-able.
a. ECU
b. Can Bus Config
c. CGW
d. EZS
e. ME_SFI 2.8 Motor Electronics
f. ETC Electronic Transmission Control
g. ESM Electronic Selector Module
h. SBC
i. ESP
J. ABC Active Body Control
k. TPC
l. AB Air Bags
m. Driver side SAM
n. Passenger side SAM
o. Rear SAM
p. Head light control L/R
q. Door and seat control L/R
********************************************************************************
2 Functions performed by more then one control unit.
a. Power Generation
1. Engine Management
2. Control Units in Engine Compartment
3. Engine Compartment CAN BUS Test
b. Power Transmission
1. Transmission Control
2. Shift Lock
c. Chasis/ Chasis
1. Brake System
2. Steering System
d. Body Systems
1. Door
2. Glazing
3. Passive Safety
4. Interior Equipment
5. Seats
6. Climate Control
e. Communication Information
1. Warning and Control
2. Communications
*****************************************************************************
3. Control Unit Group
a. Drive
1. Transmission
2. ESM
3. DTR
4. ME_SFI 2.8 Motor Electronics
b. Chasis
1. SBC
2. ESP
3. ABC
4. TPC
c. Body
1. AB Air Bags
2. WSS
3. CGW
4. BNS
5. OCP
6. EZS
7. HRA FR
8. HRA FL
9. LCP
10. PSE
11. Drivers Side SAM
12. Passenger Side SAM
13. Rear SAM
14. RVC
15. Keyless go
d. Info and Communications
1. ICM Instrument Cluster Module
2. SCM Steering Column
3. PTS Parktronic System
4. Audio, Video, Nav and Telematics
e. Seats and Doors
1. Door Control Module L/R
2. Seat Control Module L/R
f. Air Conditioning
1. AAC Automatic A/C
2. STH Stationary Heater
3. HSW Heated Steering Wheel
***********************************************************************************
4. Diagnostic of Internal Systems
1. ECU
2. Driver Side SAM
3. Passenger Side SAM
4. REAR SAM
5. Pnuematic System
6. Lower Control unit
7. Upper Control Unit
8. Door and Seat Modules
9. A/C
10. Instrument Cluster
11. Power Supply Control Module
**********************************************************************************
5. Entry of Order Data
1. Enter repair order number. Garage/Dealer Information. (Not used for stand alone SDS)

**********************************************************************************
6. Entry for Retrofit / Modifications
1. Brings up a display in German. No submenus. (Not sure of purpose or usage)
 
#20 ·
Thank you everybody for this great thread! Priceless to me. I do all of my own work on my cars and would like to buy an SDS but see there are many options on eBay. I have a 2005 SL65 AMG. Can anyone provide me a link to a decent SDS? I tried a search but am not sure if they are model specific. Please feel free to move this post or delete it if it is too redundant. Thanks!
 
#21 ·
Hello Bob,

I had a line blow as well. It was labeled 70 on diagram 1. Killed myself trying to remove it properly but I was forced to finally cut it out to avoid a full nervous breakdown. I want to have a new line made. I don’t know if a friendly neighborhood high pressure hose maker. Where would I find one in the US? And, if I do find one,there is no way in hell I want to make the same hose and run it the same way as the insane MB engineers did. Please help me avoid the loony bin!!!
 
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