I thought there should be a thread of PDF manuals for the R230.
Here's my PDF: the fuse map for the r230
Here's my PDF: the fuse map for the r230
NorthWest03SL500
The fuse chart/diagrams are wrong!
The fuse chart in both my SL55 and SL65 (R230) are wrong! They have diagrams that show fuses that are not there!! The diagram is a schematic that shows relays in a certain size/position and it does not match what is in my cars!
For example it will show 5 relays (3 large and 2 small) and show 18 fuses (12 facing up 6 sideways). The car will have 6 relays (4 large and 2 small) and only have 16 fuses (8 up 8 sideways).
The diagram shows fuse f26 is behind the passenger seat. But there are only 20 numbered positions...
What the hell do you do if you blow an important fuse and the car will not run/drive? Mercedes has intentionally made it that you have to tow the car to the STEALERSHIP to have them replace a $.15 fuse!
The fuse chart in both my SL55 and SL65 (R230) are wrong! They have diagrams that show fuses that are not there!! The diagram is a schematic that shows relays in a certain size/position and it does not match what is in my cars!
For example it will show 5 relays (3 large and 2 small) and show 18 fuses (12 facing up 6 sideways). The car will have 6 relays (4 large and 2 small) and only have 16 fuses (8 up 8 sideways).
The diagram shows fuse f26 is behind the passenger seat. But there are only 20 numbered positions...
What the hell do you do if you blow an important fuse and the car will not run/drive? Mercedes has intentionally made it that you have to tow the car to the STEALERSHIP to have them replace a $.15 fuse!
The brake thread to go along with the brake pdf's.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230-sl-class/1479183-brakes.html
AND
Hal Adams instructions from the brake thread. (my apologies for plagarizing and doing a cut and paste into this thread)
Easy.
1. Disconnect the rear battery for safety. Put a large wrap of cotton cloth under the brake master cylinder.
2. Jack up and solidly support car at all four corners on a flat surface. MAKE SURE AUX BRAKE IS OFF.
3. Remove wheels. Blow/pressure wash off the dust for convenience.
FRONT WHEEL
4. Drive out the two pad retaining pins, using a small drift from the front. Keep these and the spring clip in a safe place.
5. using a large screwdriver - force the pads open a bit - wedge the driver inbetween the disc and pad backing plate and GENTLY but FIRMLY ease the pads off the disc.
6. On one side of the car there will be a sensor from pad to a locator on the hub. Remove it.
7. Draw out the old pads. Remove the anti-squeel plates and put them all to one side for now.
8. Get a stand (a large paint can is good) that will fit behind the disc with the top flat just under the caliper - this is to rest the caliper on after the next step.
9. Behind the caliper there are two large bolts holding it to the hub (18mm heads, or 17, I cannot remember). These bolts are fitted with Loctite, so they will be tough to und0)
10. Rest the removed caliper on the stand you have ready and move away from the disc.
11. There is a small torx head screw holding the disc to the hub. Remove it.
12. If you are lucky, the disc will pull straight off. If not, puersuade it with a judicial low of a large hammer.
13. fit the new disc by following the above steps in reverse. Smear a film of copper grease on the hub face before replacing the new disc. Make sure you use some Loctite on the caliper bolts and do them up TIGHT.
14. Libverally spread some anti-squeel paste on the back and edges of the new pad steel backing plate (do not get any onto the pad surface) and refit the anti-squeel plates.
15. You will find that the new pads will not slide in. Retrieve the old pads and slide one back in as it was, and using the other end on as a lever, put it on the other side and again firmly lever back both pistons until they are level with the caliper allowing the new pad to slide in. Leave it there, and using the old pad you had in place on the other side, firmly lever back the pistons so the new pad will fit in. DO NOT USE A SCREW DRIVER TO WIND BACK THE PISTONS. BOTH PISTONS MUST BE WOUND BACK TOGETHER. If you do just one, the other will pop out.
16. Replace the sensor wire on one of the pads with a new one that will b e with the set of new pads.
17. Replace spring clip by driving in the pins from the rear. Make sure that each pin 'clicks' into place.
REAR WHEEL
There are three types of brake caliper on the rear - two will be the same as the front in design, ie they will have a piston either side of the disc, and their removal is the same as the front ones.
The 350 and 500 though have the newer Mercedes single piston caliper. With this one, the caliper must be removed with the pads in place. Once removed, the pads will slip out. Lever the single piston all the way back and put in new pads, remembering to fit the anti-squeel plates and paste.
Now, I will bet you that the rear disc will be a pig to take off. If you can get a large puller, then it will be straight forward, otherwise you will have to perservere with tapping it off. Be very careful if you are tempted to use heat - there is a wheel bearing in behind the disc... one of the reasons the rear disc is difficult is that the aux brake mechanism is in there - it is in fact an old fashioned drum brake. If it has had considerable use, then the friction material will have made a channel in the drum which acts as a lock.
Remember the little torx headed screws on each of the discs must be put back along with a sensor on one side each of front and rear.
Finally, put the wheels back on, re-connect the battery and remove the cotton wrapping from the master cylinder (if the wrapping is damp, it means that fluid has overflowed from winding the pistons back - just wipe it all dry, especially the body work underneath the cylinder)
The job is not difficult if you are confident in your mechanical ability and have the right tools. It is not a job for a first-timer unless you have someone with you with the experience. each time I change my pads and discs, I keep meaning to do a photo record and always forget! maybe someone else has some photos they can post.
By the way, if you are replacing the pads, then I suggest using Akebono pads. They are ceramic meaning that you will put an end to that horrible black dust...
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230-sl-class/1479183-brakes.html
AND
Hal Adams instructions from the brake thread. (my apologies for plagarizing and doing a cut and paste into this thread)
Easy.
1. Disconnect the rear battery for safety. Put a large wrap of cotton cloth under the brake master cylinder.
2. Jack up and solidly support car at all four corners on a flat surface. MAKE SURE AUX BRAKE IS OFF.
3. Remove wheels. Blow/pressure wash off the dust for convenience.
FRONT WHEEL
4. Drive out the two pad retaining pins, using a small drift from the front. Keep these and the spring clip in a safe place.
5. using a large screwdriver - force the pads open a bit - wedge the driver inbetween the disc and pad backing plate and GENTLY but FIRMLY ease the pads off the disc.
6. On one side of the car there will be a sensor from pad to a locator on the hub. Remove it.
7. Draw out the old pads. Remove the anti-squeel plates and put them all to one side for now.
8. Get a stand (a large paint can is good) that will fit behind the disc with the top flat just under the caliper - this is to rest the caliper on after the next step.
9. Behind the caliper there are two large bolts holding it to the hub (18mm heads, or 17, I cannot remember). These bolts are fitted with Loctite, so they will be tough to und0)
10. Rest the removed caliper on the stand you have ready and move away from the disc.
11. There is a small torx head screw holding the disc to the hub. Remove it.
12. If you are lucky, the disc will pull straight off. If not, puersuade it with a judicial low of a large hammer.
13. fit the new disc by following the above steps in reverse. Smear a film of copper grease on the hub face before replacing the new disc. Make sure you use some Loctite on the caliper bolts and do them up TIGHT.
14. Libverally spread some anti-squeel paste on the back and edges of the new pad steel backing plate (do not get any onto the pad surface) and refit the anti-squeel plates.
15. You will find that the new pads will not slide in. Retrieve the old pads and slide one back in as it was, and using the other end on as a lever, put it on the other side and again firmly lever back both pistons until they are level with the caliper allowing the new pad to slide in. Leave it there, and using the old pad you had in place on the other side, firmly lever back the pistons so the new pad will fit in. DO NOT USE A SCREW DRIVER TO WIND BACK THE PISTONS. BOTH PISTONS MUST BE WOUND BACK TOGETHER. If you do just one, the other will pop out.
16. Replace the sensor wire on one of the pads with a new one that will b e with the set of new pads.
17. Replace spring clip by driving in the pins from the rear. Make sure that each pin 'clicks' into place.
REAR WHEEL
There are three types of brake caliper on the rear - two will be the same as the front in design, ie they will have a piston either side of the disc, and their removal is the same as the front ones.
The 350 and 500 though have the newer Mercedes single piston caliper. With this one, the caliper must be removed with the pads in place. Once removed, the pads will slip out. Lever the single piston all the way back and put in new pads, remembering to fit the anti-squeel plates and paste.
Now, I will bet you that the rear disc will be a pig to take off. If you can get a large puller, then it will be straight forward, otherwise you will have to perservere with tapping it off. Be very careful if you are tempted to use heat - there is a wheel bearing in behind the disc... one of the reasons the rear disc is difficult is that the aux brake mechanism is in there - it is in fact an old fashioned drum brake. If it has had considerable use, then the friction material will have made a channel in the drum which acts as a lock.
Remember the little torx headed screws on each of the discs must be put back along with a sensor on one side each of front and rear.
Finally, put the wheels back on, re-connect the battery and remove the cotton wrapping from the master cylinder (if the wrapping is damp, it means that fluid has overflowed from winding the pistons back - just wipe it all dry, especially the body work underneath the cylinder)
The job is not difficult if you are confident in your mechanical ability and have the right tools. It is not a job for a first-timer unless you have someone with you with the experience. each time I change my pads and discs, I keep meaning to do a photo record and always forget! maybe someone else has some photos they can post.
By the way, if you are replacing the pads, then I suggest using Akebono pads. They are ceramic meaning that you will put an end to that horrible black dust...
Brakes and SBS related
You can buy an SBS Tool or also use the procedure in one of these files to more correctly disable SBS when working on brakes!
You can buy an SBS Tool or also use the procedure in one of these files to more correctly disable SBS when working on brakes!
Cant find instructions on how to replace Vario Roof flaps anywhere. I'm getting stuck replacing the supporting plate.
Does anyone have the instructions to remove the rear panel/deck, so I cad replace my Sirius receiver
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