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new sway bar from H&R install?

1K views 5 replies 2 participants last post by  Dusters128 
#1 ·
Hi there, Im trying to install an H&R rear sway bar onto a 02 slk230 r170 and have the oem bar all disconected but ran into a snag.. how do you get it out? ive tried twisting and pulling sidways but there seems to be no room to slide it out other than cutting it but then ill have the issue of the new bar not being able to fit in either. any help would be great as the slk is down till i get this sorted.. thanks in advance.
 
#3 ·
ah i thought this was the front one but then i saw it was the rear... from memory the rear sub frame has to be dropped a tad to get to it. I can look up in WIS later to confirm, but its a fairly involved job.

i wanted to add one to my 98 SLK (doesnt have one from factory), but it involved dropping the rear sub frame, welding mounts on and then putting the sway bar in. the cost was too much $$. i just stuck with h&r front sway bar, h&r springs, koni yellow shocks.

adjusted the yellow shocks 1/2 turn on front and 1 turn on rear. handles very well!
 
#4 ·
instructions from WIS.

have to drop the rear subframe...
 

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#5 ·
thanks Subby. I see theres just 4 corners that attach to the body. I,m not conpleatly removing the subframe but like you said it may just need to be loweres a coupl inches with out disconecting any hoses or drive shafts. Maby a coupl sensors so it dosn't pull on the connectors. If I put the body up on blocks and a jack under the main subframe to lower it. All it seamed to need was a coupl inches and I can wiggle it out sidways. Ill give it a try in a coupl days.
 
#6 ·
Thanks Subby for the input and insite. Helped a lot and It worked. Wasnt as involved as i thought. I got the body frame up on blocks and removed the 2 crossmembers, wheels and detached the ABS lines from the clips. Then put a jack with a 2x6 under the diff.,jacked it up just enought to put pressure on the subframe and disconected the orig. swaybar and u brackets. Then took out the 4 bolts to the subframe and lowered it real slow untill there was about 3 inches of drop.Checked and none of the cabels or hoses even came close to having tention on them. The swaybar took a little wiggling to get out but not much. The new one took alittle more to get fed through but it worked. Bolted the swaybar and then raised the subframe onto the pins and reinstalled the 4 bolts. I did the front 2 first and the rear last. With the front on, the rear seamed to draw it up tight then tourqued it to spec. On went the crossmembers and shields, wheels and then on the ground all in all it took about 3 1/2 hours and yes it really turnes in a heck of a lot better than before. Hardley any roll at all and it seems to be a bit smoother also. Ill have to do a coupl days for more input.
 
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