slk 230 starting problem cranks - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 03:09 PM
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slk 230 starting problem cranks

i have a 1996 slk 230 auto i bought it with the problem im having cheap enough so hopefully someone can shed some light so far i have:
changed the cps
changed the k40 relay
checked fuel
all is good the car turns on the key it fires up then stops before idling when this happens the car shuts the spark off
when i got the car it has the 3 pin plug down on the drivers foot well looks like an immobilizer key hole ive traced the wires and they go into the alarm the problem came about when then battery went flat on the car a year ago and had the problem since.
any ideas i have browsed the forum and the have seen similar problems but not the same.
the car unlocks and tries to start on the key
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#2 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 01:57 PM
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any ideas really at a lose end with this
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#3 (permalink) Old 10-28-2013, 12:03 PM
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done abit more i have power to the coils 12v perm and no ground from the ecu that why im not getting a spark has any body come across this thanks
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#4 (permalink) Old 10-28-2013, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by neilb1798 View Post
i have a 1996 slk 230 auto i bought it with the problem im having cheap enough so hopefully someone can shed some light so far i have:
changed the cps
changed the k40 relay
checked fuel
all is good the car turns on the key it fires up then stops before idling when this happens the car shuts the spark off
when i got the car it has the 3 pin plug down on the drivers foot well looks like an immobilizer key hole ive traced the wires and they go into the alarm the problem came about when then battery went flat on the car a year ago and had the problem since.
any ideas i have browsed the forum and the have seen similar problems but not the same.
the car unlocks and tries to start on the key
Are you telling us that the car hasn't run for a year?

If the alarm system is aftermarket, I would get it out of the picture and then continue troubleshooting. It sounds like something an alarm would do. Just to tease the thief
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#5 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 01:21 AM
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the hasnt run for a year and the alarm that is in is a Mercedes one the one that looked after market ie it still all plugged to the main one via splitters i took out but this did not cure the problem so put back in.
the alarm all works as it should put the battery on the alarm goes off bonnet open press button alarm stops and it does turn over which the alarm stops
thanks for reply
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#6 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by neilb1798 View Post
i have a 1996 slk 230 auto i bought it with the problem im having cheap enough so hopefully someone can shed some light so far i have:
changed the cps
changed the k40 relay
checked fuel
all is good the car turns on the key it fires up then stops before idling when this happens the car shuts the spark off
when i got the car it has the 3 pin plug down on the drivers foot well looks like an immobilizer key hole ive traced the wires and they go into the alarm the problem came about when then battery went flat on the car a year ago and had the problem since.
any ideas i have browsed the forum and the have seen similar problems but not the same.
the car unlocks and tries to start on the key
I had the same problem occur a few years ago. It turned out to be the fuel pump. Make sure you have your fuel pressure checked. It may be something as simple as a fuel filter plugged up or the crankshaft position sensor not working correctly. In any case it sounds like you have checked the ignition system thoroughly. Do the same with the fuel system.

I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol!
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#7 (permalink) Old 11-01-2013, 01:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veloman View Post
I had the same problem occur a few years ago. It turned out to be the fuel pump. Make sure you have your fuel pressure checked. It may be something as simple as a fuel filter plugged up or the crankshaft position sensor not working correctly. In any case it sounds like you have checked the ignition system thoroughly. Do the same with the fuel system.
ive checked the filter so you would suggest tring the pressure whats the pressure at the rail supposed to be i have crimped the return off already that did not have an effect on the car and crank position has been checked and replaced thanks for reply i will som how get a gauge attached in at the moment its on the hold as i im just changing an engine in another car
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#8 (permalink) Old 11-01-2013, 12:00 PM
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ive checked the filter so you would suggest tring the pressure whats the pressure at the rail supposed to be i have crimped the return off already that did not have an effect on the car and crank position has been checked and replaced thanks for reply i will som how get a gauge attached in at the moment its on the hold as i im just changing an engine in another car
I believe 54-61 psi at the fuel rail is correct. The pressure regulator is in the fuel filter and I have read that these are sometimes faulty depending on manufacturer. When the car is first started the fuel pump is signaled to run for a few seconds to get the pressure up on the fuel rail. Then with the engine started, the crank position sensor keeps the fuel pump on. I had my independent mechanic check my car when it wouldn't start and had a faulty fuel pump. This occurred when the car was hot.
Your car may have a different regulator set-up as mine is a 2004 model.

I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol!

Last edited by Veloman; 11-01-2013 at 12:02 PM.
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#9 (permalink) Old 04-15-2014, 02:26 PM
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sorry for the late update just to let you all know i ended up buying another ecu and key and transponder is there a way of coding these up i thought they would be plug in and play with all the things i had the car turns over only three times if i to ignition fast other wise it doesnt do anything
any ideas
Many thanks
Neil
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#10 (permalink) Old 04-15-2014, 06:03 PM
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with the ECU coding or rather introducing it to the rest of the system can be done with carsoft or STAR DAS (dealer).

if the old ecu is still talking the software copies the settings and then asks you to replace the ecu. once in it writes the old ecus coding to the new. if the old ecu is not talking then it can be manually coded only by dealer.

with the key and transponder this is a dealer job as it links into the immobilizer. ecu failing and keys failing are rare...

if the immobilizer has failed the car wouldn't start at all and START ERROR would come up on the dash. the key is being authenticated as it is starting...

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