bad Oil leak - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 10:53 AM
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bad Oil leak

I have major oil leak in my 99 slk with 55k miles. I changed oil about 2000 miles ago. I saw some oil drops on garage few days ago. Also there was oil around driver side wheel and fender. I removed the tray underneath engine and it was full of oil. Oil drain plug has oil around it. Oil pan looks clean. Only place i can see oil is around drain plug and bottom of the pan. Engine oil level is halfway to max. I checked power steering lines and they look clean. you can see oil accumulation on left rear corner of tray in pics.please help.
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#2 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 11:38 AM
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Can it be leaking from oil level sensor (pic 3). Is it common place of leak in this cars?
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#3 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 02:49 PM
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Check that all your sump bolts are there and retorque - I think without a clean down it will be hard to identify

Badly leaking cam magnet can get down there

Oberoi
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#4 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 03:48 PM
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Please forgive me if I state the obvious. I would check whatever you unscrewed. The oil pan drain plug should be torqued to specs. I see the copper seal ring… looks good… are all associated sealing surfaces clean and free of burrs? Is the plug cross threaded? There may be a Loctite thread sealant that can cure that type of leak.

Did you change the filter? There is a seal ring in the filter housing. Is the filter installed properly? Is the filter assembly torgued to specs.?

Thom
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#5 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oberoi View Post
Check that all your sump bolts are there and retorque - I think without a clean down it will be hard to identify
Badly leaking cam magnet can get down there
Oberoi
THanks guys. Checked everything. No oil around pan seals.

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Originally Posted by DecoThom View Post
Please forgive me if I state the obvious. I would check whatever you unscrewed. The oil pan drain plug should be torqued to specs. I see the copper seal ring… looks good… are all associated sealing surfaces clean and free of burrs? Is the plug cross threaded? There may be a Loctite thread sealant that can cure that type of leak.


Did you change the filter? There is a seal ring in the filter housing. Is the filter installed properly? Is the filter assembly torgued to specs.?
Its leaking from drain plug.I cleaned area around drain plug and after an hour i could see oil around the plug. I didnt change copper seal when i changed oil. I changed filter too but there is no oil around filter or any other part of engine other than drain oil.
Should i replace the copper washer? I have tighten it but its still leaking.
Can I re-use the oil engine oil after i replace the washer? Oil is still new.
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#6 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 05:43 PM
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I hope there are burrs, dirt, ridges, or irregularities interfering with the seal, hopefully just the reused copper ring. If the plug is cross threaded, you may have really serious problems that require different solutions. (The plug should be threaded back in with finger pressure only for several turns.) I would hope for the best. Clean the oil plug area. Drain the oil into a very clean pan. You can reuse the oil by pouring it through a coffee filter. Replace the copper sealing ring. Use fine sand paper to smooth/deburr the surfaces to which the copper ring interfaces, being careful to not to cause further ridges or burrs. Clean all filings from all threads. Use a thread sealer. Torque the drain plug to specs. (Maybe someone knows torque setting.) Refill oil through coffee filter.

Thom
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#7 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DecoThom View Post
I hope there are burrs, dirt, ridges, or irregularities interfering with the seal, hopefully just the reused copper ring. If the plug is cross threaded, you may have really serious problems that require different solutions. (The plug should be threaded back in with finger pressure only for several turns.) I would hope for the best. Clean the oil plug area. Drain the oil into a very clean pan. You can reuse the oil by pouring it through a coffee filter. Replace the copper sealing ring. Use fine sand paper to smooth/deburr the surfaces to which the copper ring interfaces, being careful to not to cause further ridges or burrs. Clean all filings from all threads. Use a thread sealer. Torque the drain plug to specs. (Maybe someone knows torque setting.) Refill oil through coffee filter.
I dont think the plug is cross threaded. As long as i remember i was able to inset plug with finger pressure. I will get the washer tomorrow from dealer. Where can i get a thread sealer from?
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#8 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 06:26 PM
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I am not really sure what is a good thread sealer… if Loctite or Permatex make great thread sealers specifically for that purpose. I have used sensor safe high temperature gasket sealer on water pump bolts with questionable threads. You can search online at sites like Autozone, PepBoys, Advance Auto Parts, Napa, etc. You can talk with the guys at these shops for recommendations. Napa Auto Parts guys seem to know about these things.

Thom
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#9 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 06:30 PM
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If you are going to the dealer, you might as well replace the drain plug and washer seal. The drain plug has a sealing surface, and should be inexpensive. The dealer can give you the torque spec. too.

Thom
2003 SLK230 USA model
Automatic Transmission
No Alterations/Stock
Southeast, USA

Last edited by DecoThom; 02-19-2012 at 06:37 PM.
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#10 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 07:27 PM
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I just wanted to be sure you received my edit about replacing the drain plug as well as the copper washer. Often drain plugs are magnetic. They can attract ferrous metal particles. You may be able to get the magnetic drain plug and sealer washer from local auto parts suppliers/maybe not. Authousaz.com is really good with supplying parts for our cars.

Thom
2003 SLK230 USA model
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