coolant change SLK230 - drain radiator & engine block - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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#1 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 10:46 PM
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coolant change SLK230 - drain radiator & engine block

took some pics to show people who are not sure where the drain points are of the slk230. i dont think anyone here actualy drains the engine block - a fair bit of coolant is in there... if your under the car you might as well.

first pic is the radiator drain point fairly easy to find and easy to get too... now to the engine block drain point. this is located on the side with the exhaust manifold look up where the steering is and you will see the nipple.

now i dont know how WIS recons you can use a box wrench in there but theres hardly any room and im paranoid stripping the bolt. i used a 19mm socket + universal joint extension on a ratchet. go nice and slow as coolant will drip and then gush out - highly recommended you do this when the car/coolant is cold for safety.

if you have your car on jack stands, jack up both front and rear to keep it level when draining.

you can flush the system with clean water until clean water comes out of the drain points. close them up and fill system with 50/50 anti freeze & water mix. use only MB anti freeze or valvoline/zerex g0-5
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- ASP pulley kit
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- MAF screen & throttle body screen delete
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- Magnaflow rear muffler + Lukey Ultraflo resonator
- Shift-I progressive shift light
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#2 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 01:07 PM
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Tried the drain on the block first time and it was so stiff that I gave it away and resolved just to take extra care when flushing

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#3 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 03:19 PM
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Excellent write-up with instructional pictures. I have used engine drain plugs especially when pulling the head(s).

The way I do a coolant changes is:
Drain cold coolant through radiator drain plug.
Fill coolant system with garden hose water several times as water drains out.
Start engine with heater on, then keep garden hose running through coolant filler cap hole for a couple of minutes.
When coolant drains as clear water, turn off engine.
After total drain, install radiator drain plug/cock.
Fill with a couple of gallons or so of distilled water.
Run engine for a few minutes.
Drain distilled water from radiator drain cock.
Install drain plug.
Fill 50 % of system with appropriate radiator fluid.
Top off with distilled water.

Thom
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#4 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 08:49 PM
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I always do this with the engine warm so that the thermostat is also open for better drainage. Also ensure that the heater control are set to maximum temperature so that the duo valves are open for draining from the heater core. Now I do have a different engine (320) and on mine I can remove the drain plug and no water will flow out as long as I keep the cap on the overflow bottle screwed on. I then position my container, open the cap on the overflow tank and get a fast outflow. To ensure the overflow container empty completely, I blow into the tank.

Also, I park with the rear slightly higher than the front, maybe 1 to 2 inches. On my last coolant change, I measure the amount drained at 10 quarts - out of a system total of 11 quarts. For that reason I did not bother with the drain-cocks on the engine, but just filled it with distilled water, warmed it up, drained and repeated.

Also, remember to re-check the coolant level over the days following. It takes a couple of days to get all the air out of the system. Remember to use the heater so that any air there is forced out as well.



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#5 (permalink) Old 02-12-2011, 02:03 AM
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here is an article about mb coolant... interesting read.
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- ASP pulley kit
- 87mm supercharger pulley
- Ported Eaton M62 supercharger
- Ported supercharger inlet manifold
- MAF screen & throttle body screen delete
- Automatic intercooler spray kit
- Single 2.5" Magnaflow Hi-flow cat
- Magnaflow rear muffler + Lukey Ultraflo resonator
- Shift-I progressive shift light
- Custom ECU tune
- Air box delete (custom) with BMC airfilter
- 10c degree STAR thermo fan mod
- FireStorm igntion coil booster
- PIVOT Raizin voltage stabilizer
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#6 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 08:15 AM
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bump.. ill be swappin my radiator out when i return. Helpful post.


I suppose ill just be draining the radiator, then ill be removing it and the fan to swap

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#7 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 12:22 PM
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Thanks a lot for that info. Nice to see at the end that I haven't been as much of a dick to my car as I imagined, since Mercedes doesn't tell you to replace coolant until 15 years/150k miles. I'm just coming up on 10 yrs/142k.

Since I run perfectly well-cooled and with no problems, maybe the smart thing to do is to stick with the MB antifreeze.
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#8 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 04:26 PM
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The 15 year/150,000 mile interval didn't appear until about the 2003 model year and it is pretty clearly pointed out in the owners manual books. Not sure if they have stuck with that. If you want to do a repeat of that interval, then you will need to replace the chemical pack. I'm not even sure where it is located or if it is even replaceable. If you don't replace it, then you will be back to an every three year interval. In any case the Mercedes coolant or Zerex GO5 would be good choices.

Len
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'83 240D original owner 350,500 miles - for sale - http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123...g-my-240d.html
'88 560SL 41,000 miles being parted out - https://sites.google.com/site/mercedesstuff/home
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#9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 06:52 PM
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the chemical pack is in the plastic expansion tank where the radiator cap screws onto (non user serviceable.). you would need to replace the expansion tank at the correct interval so the chemical pack doesnt completely deplete.

like i said the coolant in conjunction WITH the chemical pack (in the expansion tank) will give it the long life. from what i see doent apply to the R170 only newer benzs...

- ASP pulley kit
- 87mm supercharger pulley
- Ported Eaton M62 supercharger
- Ported supercharger inlet manifold
- MAF screen & throttle body screen delete
- Automatic intercooler spray kit
- Single 2.5" Magnaflow Hi-flow cat
- Magnaflow rear muffler + Lukey Ultraflo resonator
- Shift-I progressive shift light
- Custom ECU tune
- Air box delete (custom) with BMC airfilter
- 10c degree STAR thermo fan mod
- FireStorm igntion coil booster
- PIVOT Raizin voltage stabilizer
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#10 (permalink) Old 11-13-2014, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subby_ View Post
the chemical pack is in the plastic expansion tank where the radiator cap screws onto (non user serviceable.). you would need to replace the expansion tank at the correct interval so the chemical pack doesnt completely deplete.

like i said the coolant in conjunction WITH the chemical pack (in the expansion tank) will give it the long life. from what i see doent apply to the R170 only newer benzs...
My 2003 170 has the fifteen year coolant. I think that might have been the first year?

Len
'59 220S Cabriolet - for sale - http://www.mbzponton.org/mbz220s/sellswap/car4sale.htm
'83 240D original owner 350,500 miles - for sale - http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123...g-my-240d.html
'88 560SL 41,000 miles being parted out - https://sites.google.com/site/mercedesstuff/home
'99 E300 turbo 188,000 miles
'03 SLK320 31,000 miles
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