1998 SLK230 Misfire Problem - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 06-16-2009, 10:47 AM
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Unhappy 1998 SLK230 Misfire Problem

Hello all! This is my first post as a mercedes owner. Just bought a 98 slk 230 and was tormented by 3 CEL codes after 7 days of ownership.

P0410-Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction
P0300-Random/Multiple Engine misfire
P0301-Cylinder 1 Misfire detected

All these codes occured right after the car lost all power and started running extremely rough, especially when idleing. This problem seems to come and go.

By reading this forum, i'm thinking it's a MAF sensor issue. I've read everthing about MAF sensors avaliable on the internet, and i'm still not sure where to find it on my 98 kompressor. PLEASE HELP! Pics, or a detailed description would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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#2 (permalink) Old 06-16-2009, 11:02 AM
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Blaming the MAF is a good start, as good as blaming the cigerette lighter, but you have to start somewhere. The MAF is on the driver's side, in the engine compartment close the the radiator. The component locator feature on my website may help with future questions like this.

So what causes misfires and SAIR codes may have been a better question to ask. Misfires are caused by either an electrical problem or a air/fuel problem. The easiest to get your head around is electrical. This can be faulty spark plugs, failing wires or cracked/failing coil packs. Do the misfires happen mostly when the engine is cool? Weather is damp? Could be a coil pack with a hairline crack. You can get a spray bottle of water and spray the coil packs to see if that causes misfires. Changing plugs and wires is a maintenance item, you may want to do if you haven't done them in a long while. The next issue is air/fuel. So if you have a vacuum leak, the engine will run lean and cause misfires. You can also have low fuel pressure (weak fuel pump, bad FPR) that would cause misfires. Also, dirty or weak fuel injectors can cause misfires.

As for the SAIR code, this is common on these cars and I believe there's a valve that needs replacing. Someone that has done it can share part numbers, instructions, etc.

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#3 (permalink) Old 06-16-2009, 02:10 PM
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Thanks for the speedy reply. I was looking on the passenger side for the MAF.. .lol..i'm really not an auto guy.

Got it cleaned as prescribed by a MAF cleaning pdf file here in the forums. Engine lights reset on their own..i'll drive it for a while and see if the problem returns.
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#4 (permalink) Old 06-16-2009, 02:12 PM
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#5 (permalink) Old 06-18-2009, 10:22 AM
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Thanks for the warm welcome! I really appreciate you all taking the time to answer my post!

The CELs haven't returned and it has been a couple of days. Thats a good sign atleast!

I still feel like my slk is having acceleration issues: It seems to hesitate for a split second as you press down the pedal, and is sluggish in 1st gear. So I have a few additional question. They might seem like dumb questions to most, but this is really the first car that i've taken a mechanical interest in..so bare with me

-Buellwinkle mentioned a valve that might need replacing related to the SAIR code, where is the valve, or can someone provide the link to the forum?

-Would a tune-up help this?

-How do I verify my supercharger is engaging?
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#6 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 06:16 PM
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Supercharger

Start the engine, pop the hood, actuate the throttle and watch the supercharger clutch, it should kick in around 2200 rpm. Standing in front of the engine, it will be on your left, between the air cleaner housing and the engine (belt driven). It will look like an a/c compressor to you. You should see the clutch engage and start turning the SC, with increased rpm's. If it doesn't, make sure that the control wire hasn't come lose, plugs in by the air cleaner.
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#7 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 10:09 PM
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How long has it been since a tuneup. Being a 98 chances are the wires are old and need replacing.. Dont buy cheap ones get the OEM or better. Cheap or old ones make the coil packs work harder and can help lead to them failing.

Use the standard spark plugs as they seem to work good and last a long time. There are a few guides that can show you how to do it all. Easy stuff and it will save you a ton.. Search for this

Also buy a oil extractor and change your own oil. Dealer is way too expensive and quicky lube places wont do it right. Buy the filters from MB though. the extractor sucks it out through the dip stick hole you dont even get your hands dirty.

Another thing your year of car is prone to the K40 relay failing because of bad solder joints.. That could be some of your problem now. You should learn about that.

One last thing to search for is the PSE. It is located in the trunk. Find it and save it. Chances are it will get wet soon and once it does lots of weird things happen. doors wont lock alarm dont work. dome light.... They sell a kit at MB for around $45 that allows you to turn it upside down.. At least wrap it in a bag of some kind.

If you cant find all this stuff just give a shout but most of this stuff is in the sticky at the top of the forum.

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#8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 10:34 AM
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my 98' slk230 is sick! will run fine if feathering gas pedal, but put your foot in it a bit and check light comes on. scanner says no. 1 cylinder misfire. have swapped coil packs, wires, and plugs (2 months old) and still after accelleration, light comes on and car runs rough. please help!
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#9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 03:35 PM
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Do you mean you have the same (cyl. 1 misfire) code after all the swapping?
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#10 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Mantist View Post
Do you mean you have the same (cyl. 1 misfire) code after all the swapping?
yes, which leads me to think it might be a clogged injector?
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