I got a P0243 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Malfunction code does anybody know a fix for this? bad throttle acuator, possible vacuum leak, bad maf. has anyone experienced this and fixed it? Thanks
OIFVet
OIFVet
OIFVet
I had stumbled across this after 6-hours of searching; need help in decipher:
P0243 - Supercharger (Boost) Bypass Solenoid Circuit Malfunction The PCM monitors the supercharger (boost) bypass (SCB) solenoid circuit for an electrical failure. The test fails when the signal moves outside the minimum or maximum allowable calibrated parameters for a specified SCB solenoid duty cycle (100% or 0%) by PCM command. VPWR circuit open to SCB solenoid
SCB solenoid circuit shorted to PWR GND or CHASSIS GND
Damaged SCB solenoid
SCB solenoid circuit open
SCB solenoid circuit shorted to VPWR
Damaged PCM
Disconnect SCB solenoid. Connect test lamp to SCB solenoid harness connector. Cycle SCB driver in PCM by Output Test Mode. Test lamp cycle on and off - SCB solenoid is suspect. Test lamp always on - SCB signal short in harness or PCM. Test always off - SCB signal or VPWR open in harness or PCM.
OIFVet
P0243 - Supercharger (Boost) Bypass Solenoid Circuit Malfunction The PCM monitors the supercharger (boost) bypass (SCB) solenoid circuit for an electrical failure. The test fails when the signal moves outside the minimum or maximum allowable calibrated parameters for a specified SCB solenoid duty cycle (100% or 0%) by PCM command. VPWR circuit open to SCB solenoid
SCB solenoid circuit shorted to PWR GND or CHASSIS GND
Damaged SCB solenoid
SCB solenoid circuit open
SCB solenoid circuit shorted to VPWR
Damaged PCM
Disconnect SCB solenoid. Connect test lamp to SCB solenoid harness connector. Cycle SCB driver in PCM by Output Test Mode. Test lamp cycle on and off - SCB solenoid is suspect. Test lamp always on - SCB signal short in harness or PCM. Test always off - SCB signal or VPWR open in harness or PCM.
OIFVet
That is an amazingly detailed description of P0243......with diagostic suggestions!
.....I would be interested in a link if you could post it here.....
This is a link to the Code List I find the best for the SLK (most OBD11 lists do not have the MB SLK specific codes re Supercharger).......
202Tech - OBD-II Codes
P0243 is "Recirculated air flap actuator for supercharger"......this is also called the Air Bypass Valve
.......this is the unit next to the Air Box that looks like a throttle body......has a motor operated butterfly valve and its function is to control boost
.....the control is by PCM signal and the investigations suggested by your printout is in relation to this Pulse Code Modulation Signal
Basic checks are possible if you don't have the equipent for the PCM signal check......
First....what problems.......any performance loss......
Get back to us with the symptoms and I can suggest some further diagnostic checks
Cheers
David
.....I would be interested in a link if you could post it here.....
This is a link to the Code List I find the best for the SLK (most OBD11 lists do not have the MB SLK specific codes re Supercharger).......
202Tech - OBD-II Codes
P0243 is "Recirculated air flap actuator for supercharger"......this is also called the Air Bypass Valve
.......this is the unit next to the Air Box that looks like a throttle body......has a motor operated butterfly valve and its function is to control boost
.....the control is by PCM signal and the investigations suggested by your printout is in relation to this Pulse Code Modulation Signal
Basic checks are possible if you don't have the equipent for the PCM signal check......
First....what problems.......any performance loss......
Get back to us with the symptoms and I can suggest some further diagnostic checks
Cheers
David
History: My SLK is a 6-spd MT. Last year I removed the plastic baffle from inside the SC, so that one can hear the whine of the SC.
Symptoms/Situation: About 3-days ago, I noticed that the SC was not quite as loud as before. But I figured since it had rained, that maybe water got into the engine bay, and just needed to dry out. 2-days ago, as I was driving home (dry weather) the CEL came on, and I noticed a drop in power.
Diagnosis: When I got home I scan for codes, and came up with P0243. Pop the hood, and noticed the Throttle Actuator in the open position. I had my wife watch the butterfly as I started the car and rev the engine to about 3k – 4k RPM’s. And she said the flap did not move from its current position. As I looked into the engine bay, I saw a thin -loose vacuum tube disconnected from the SC (the one that connects to the air box). I reconnected it, cleared the code, and took the car around the block. The whine of the SC was alittle louder, but not like before. I notice alittle bit more power as well, and no CEL. But, I knew it still was not operating properly.
The next morning, going to work, I downshifted to pass a car, and felt a slight hesitation in power, and then the CEL came back on. When I got to work, I opened the hood and the vacuum line was off again. I replaced it securely and cleared the again. I decided to disconnect the battery until I got off from work. After work, I reconnected the battery; no CEL, but got ASP/BAS light. Try to reset, but to no avail. I proceeded to drive home this afternoon, once again, I could hear the SC whine a little, and had better power. I decided to gun while on the freeway, and felt the same hesitation, and then CEL came on. Now dash looks like a lit tree on Christmas; CEL, ASP/BAS, and Radiator lights.
The dealership told me that the DTC P0243 is a generic code, that it could be any number of things: the MAF, vacuum leak under manifold, the cable between the actuator and ECU, the connector of the actuator, or the actuator itself.
Solution: To be determined
Additional Info: I don’t know if the following will be useful, but I use my scanner to record the following while sitting idle in my garage:
ABSLT TPS %: 2.3
Eng RPM: 864-896
CALC Load %: 12.5
MAF Flow GR/SE: 3.38 – 3.45
Coolant (F –degrees) 199
IAT (F degrees) 109
IGN Adv De 16.5
ST FTRM1 % 0 -.8
LT FTRM1 % - 6.3
O2S11 v .110 -.745
ST FTRM11 % 0 – 1.5
O2S12 v .735
Symptoms/Situation: About 3-days ago, I noticed that the SC was not quite as loud as before. But I figured since it had rained, that maybe water got into the engine bay, and just needed to dry out. 2-days ago, as I was driving home (dry weather) the CEL came on, and I noticed a drop in power.
Diagnosis: When I got home I scan for codes, and came up with P0243. Pop the hood, and noticed the Throttle Actuator in the open position. I had my wife watch the butterfly as I started the car and rev the engine to about 3k – 4k RPM’s. And she said the flap did not move from its current position. As I looked into the engine bay, I saw a thin -loose vacuum tube disconnected from the SC (the one that connects to the air box). I reconnected it, cleared the code, and took the car around the block. The whine of the SC was alittle louder, but not like before. I notice alittle bit more power as well, and no CEL. But, I knew it still was not operating properly.
The next morning, going to work, I downshifted to pass a car, and felt a slight hesitation in power, and then the CEL came back on. When I got to work, I opened the hood and the vacuum line was off again. I replaced it securely and cleared the again. I decided to disconnect the battery until I got off from work. After work, I reconnected the battery; no CEL, but got ASP/BAS light. Try to reset, but to no avail. I proceeded to drive home this afternoon, once again, I could hear the SC whine a little, and had better power. I decided to gun while on the freeway, and felt the same hesitation, and then CEL came on. Now dash looks like a lit tree on Christmas; CEL, ASP/BAS, and Radiator lights.
The dealership told me that the DTC P0243 is a generic code, that it could be any number of things: the MAF, vacuum leak under manifold, the cable between the actuator and ECU, the connector of the actuator, or the actuator itself.
Solution: To be determined
Additional Info: I don’t know if the following will be useful, but I use my scanner to record the following while sitting idle in my garage:
ABSLT TPS %: 2.3
Eng RPM: 864-896
CALC Load %: 12.5
MAF Flow GR/SE: 3.38 – 3.45
Coolant (F –degrees) 199
IAT (F degrees) 109
IGN Adv De 16.5
ST FTRM1 % 0 -.8
LT FTRM1 % - 6.3
O2S11 v .110 -.745
ST FTRM11 % 0 – 1.5
O2S12 v .735
I presume your '01 230 is a facelift model.....I am more familiar with the pre-facelift 230 intake plumbing......others with more experience with facelift model may chime in
....on my 230 I found I had to 'gun' the throttle pretty hard to get the Bypass Butterfly to close......a gently rise in RPM will not move it....(I presume by Throttle Actuator you mean Air Bypass Valve)
.....a careful check/clean of the electrical connection at the bypass valve would be my first suggestion
.....a boost gauge will give you the best indication of correct Supercharger/Bypass Valve operation....(even just a cheap temporary diagnostic installation)
Good Luck
David
....on my 230 I found I had to 'gun' the throttle pretty hard to get the Bypass Butterfly to close......a gently rise in RPM will not move it....(I presume by Throttle Actuator you mean Air Bypass Valve)
.....a careful check/clean of the electrical connection at the bypass valve would be my first suggestion
.....a boost gauge will give you the best indication of correct Supercharger/Bypass Valve operation....(even just a cheap temporary diagnostic installation)
Good Luck
David
Daivd,
Thank you for your input into this matter. Here is the link you requested earlier:
Ford Escort Owners Association
Update:
I spent the night pulling apart the air filter housing, the throttle actuator (air bypass valve, and the MAF. And cleaned all parts to include the vacuum tubes, and contacts and harness of the MAF and throttle actuator. I have cleared the DTC P0243 (the ASP/BAS disappear on first crank up), and took the car out for a couple of hard runs on the local street. So far, I still hear the SC whine faintly, but throttle response and power seem to be back to normal. It's about to pour down raining outside, temperature is 73 degrees F, low humidity (afternoon temps was 92 degress F). I about to run one last hard run to the gas station to fill up, and we'll see what happens on my way to and from work. I'll keep everyone posted of the results, and fix action once I figure this out. I'm starting to believe that I may have a faulty MAF (X my fingers). I would rather pay $250 for a MAF versus $650 + for the air bypass valve.
Thank you for your input into this matter. Here is the link you requested earlier:
Ford Escort Owners Association
Update:
I spent the night pulling apart the air filter housing, the throttle actuator (air bypass valve, and the MAF. And cleaned all parts to include the vacuum tubes, and contacts and harness of the MAF and throttle actuator. I have cleared the DTC P0243 (the ASP/BAS disappear on first crank up), and took the car out for a couple of hard runs on the local street. So far, I still hear the SC whine faintly, but throttle response and power seem to be back to normal. It's about to pour down raining outside, temperature is 73 degrees F, low humidity (afternoon temps was 92 degress F). I about to run one last hard run to the gas station to fill up, and we'll see what happens on my way to and from work. I'll keep everyone posted of the results, and fix action once I figure this out. I'm starting to believe that I may have a faulty MAF (X my fingers). I would rather pay $250 for a MAF versus $650 + for the air bypass valve.
Well, back from my run to get gas. It took no time for the slight hesitation and CEL to come back. DTC P0243. This time I here no SC whine, and a very faint whistle when I slow down for speed bumps in the neighborhood. But, I cannot pinpoint the source. I am beginning to think I may have a vacuum leak somewhere. Tomorrow, I'll have my wife gas the pedal, while I try to pin point the source. I did, however notice that my one side of my MAF secure screw tab is broken. So, I'll order a replacement MAF. While I'm at it I think I'll replace additional parts. I'm at 120k miles, so it's about time to do some in-house maintenance.
Suggest a close inspection of the inlet air ducting connections/clamps
The MAF is often the culprit for a number of DTC's
.........if you have boost, then the Bypass valve is operating and the MAF is the usual suspect
The boost pressure is determined indirectly by the ECU from the boost pressure map on the basis of........
-Engine speed
-MAF
-Throttle valve position
It seems the Bypass Valve is blamed for crazy readings that are off the map......but fauly MAF signals can also upset the ECU calculations
The DTC set in this case is usually P0803...also Air Bypass Valve Actuator
If you are loosing boost from a ducting leak this could also upset the ECU calculations
Really it is so easy to get a Boost reading and eliminate Bypass Valve /Ducting /Vacuum leaks.........leaving the MAF as the prime suspect
Cheers
David
The MAF is often the culprit for a number of DTC's
.........if you have boost, then the Bypass valve is operating and the MAF is the usual suspect
The boost pressure is determined indirectly by the ECU from the boost pressure map on the basis of........
-Engine speed
-MAF
-Throttle valve position
It seems the Bypass Valve is blamed for crazy readings that are off the map......but fauly MAF signals can also upset the ECU calculations
The DTC set in this case is usually P0803...also Air Bypass Valve Actuator
If you are loosing boost from a ducting leak this could also upset the ECU calculations
Really it is so easy to get a Boost reading and eliminate Bypass Valve /Ducting /Vacuum leaks.........leaving the MAF as the prime suspect
Cheers
David
Update:
I haven't got around to getting a boost reading, I'll probably get that this weekend. On my way home today, I decided to disconnect the wire harness from the MAF just to see what would happen. The car drove the same if not a little better. I drove approximately 1/2 mile (outside temp: 90 degrees F; mild humidity), at which point, I decided to jump on it. First jump, no CEL, no hesitation. At about 2.3 miles, I jump on the accelerator again, but this time felt the hesitation and CEL came on. Stopped in a parking lot, reconnected the MAF, and reset codes. What I have noticed, is the car pretty much drove the same with or without the MAF being connected. I had read somewhere that disconnecting the MAF would result in poor performance.
At the present time, I'm looking to see if someone wouldn't mind letting me use their MAF just long enough to test in my car or vice versa. More to come.
I haven't got around to getting a boost reading, I'll probably get that this weekend. On my way home today, I decided to disconnect the wire harness from the MAF just to see what would happen. The car drove the same if not a little better. I drove approximately 1/2 mile (outside temp: 90 degrees F; mild humidity), at which point, I decided to jump on it. First jump, no CEL, no hesitation. At about 2.3 miles, I jump on the accelerator again, but this time felt the hesitation and CEL came on. Stopped in a parking lot, reconnected the MAF, and reset codes. What I have noticed, is the car pretty much drove the same with or without the MAF being connected. I had read somewhere that disconnecting the MAF would result in poor performance.
At the present time, I'm looking to see if someone wouldn't mind letting me use their MAF just long enough to test in my car or vice versa. More to come.
Update:
After posting last message I decided to thoroughly was the enigne, and check all vacuum line wires, traced wire harness from air bypass valve all the way the ECU, and anything else I could get my hands on. I saw nothing out of the ordinary, except the MAF as mentioned above. (side note: engine looks awesome now that is has been degreased and cleaned).
Drove to work this morning without a problem. since this problem started I have been driving with my code readerhooked up reading real time data, and noticed that the IAT was 30 degrees cooler than the past few days (readings before 107-122 degress F; now 70-77 degress F).
After posting last message I decided to thoroughly was the enigne, and check all vacuum line wires, traced wire harness from air bypass valve all the way the ECU, and anything else I could get my hands on. I saw nothing out of the ordinary, except the MAF as mentioned above. (side note: engine looks awesome now that is has been degreased and cleaned).
Drove to work this morning without a problem. since this problem started I have been driving with my code readerhooked up reading real time data, and noticed that the IAT was 30 degrees cooler than the past few days (readings before 107-122 degress F; now 70-77 degress F).
Update:
I am totally baffled by this issue. Well, today I pulled out everything I could get my hands on. From the supercharger, plumbing, intercooler, MAF, throttle body, vacuum lines, Shut-Off Valve, and thoroughly cleaned all. I did notice oil inside the intake manifold, but could not get to it, and didn't dismantle the intake (maybe next weekend). Tested wire harness on MAF, air bypass valve, and throttle body.
Put everything back together minus the wire harness of the air bypass valve, and MAF, then ran a code scanner. Which came back with P0245, P0246, and P0110., which I expected. Once I hooked up the air bypass harness; ran scanner, got the P0110 from disconnect MAF. Reconnected MAF, then cleared all codes. everything seemed good so far.
Took the car out for a test drive, As I started out of the neighbor hood, once again I could not hear the familiar sound of the SC whine, but I proceeded anyways. Now when I am on leveled ground or down-slope, the car run fine, acceleration is good. But once I hit the first incline, it's fine until I hit midway in 4th gear, going to 5th. I feel a slight hesitation, not quite as noticeable before the cleaning. This time no CEL. I get to the gas station, scan the car, no codes, but had a pending code of P0243. I topped off,check my fuel mileage (only 23 mpg, use to avg 25-26 mpg), cleared the pending code and hit the highway hard ( about 10 mi away from home). This time no hesitation, good acceleration on all elevation. On the return trip, I drove back on the city street (multiple elevation). Felt the hesitation on incline, but this time no CEL and no pending codes. Ran the car hard on the last 2 miles home; no issues. Got home and ran scan no CEL, and no pending codes.
I still believe I may have a bad MAF. And I am wondering if I may have a fueling issue (fuel pump, an injector, FPR, or Regeneration Fuel Vapor Recovery Valve). Because, it seems I get this symptoms on inclines.
Anyone with any ideas? Does anyone know how to test the above fuel parts?
More to follow.
I am totally baffled by this issue. Well, today I pulled out everything I could get my hands on. From the supercharger, plumbing, intercooler, MAF, throttle body, vacuum lines, Shut-Off Valve, and thoroughly cleaned all. I did notice oil inside the intake manifold, but could not get to it, and didn't dismantle the intake (maybe next weekend). Tested wire harness on MAF, air bypass valve, and throttle body.
Put everything back together minus the wire harness of the air bypass valve, and MAF, then ran a code scanner. Which came back with P0245, P0246, and P0110., which I expected. Once I hooked up the air bypass harness; ran scanner, got the P0110 from disconnect MAF. Reconnected MAF, then cleared all codes. everything seemed good so far.
Took the car out for a test drive, As I started out of the neighbor hood, once again I could not hear the familiar sound of the SC whine, but I proceeded anyways. Now when I am on leveled ground or down-slope, the car run fine, acceleration is good. But once I hit the first incline, it's fine until I hit midway in 4th gear, going to 5th. I feel a slight hesitation, not quite as noticeable before the cleaning. This time no CEL. I get to the gas station, scan the car, no codes, but had a pending code of P0243. I topped off,check my fuel mileage (only 23 mpg, use to avg 25-26 mpg), cleared the pending code and hit the highway hard ( about 10 mi away from home). This time no hesitation, good acceleration on all elevation. On the return trip, I drove back on the city street (multiple elevation). Felt the hesitation on incline, but this time no CEL and no pending codes. Ran the car hard on the last 2 miles home; no issues. Got home and ran scan no CEL, and no pending codes.
I still believe I may have a bad MAF. And I am wondering if I may have a fueling issue (fuel pump, an injector, FPR, or Regeneration Fuel Vapor Recovery Valve). Because, it seems I get this symptoms on inclines.
Anyone with any ideas? Does anyone know how to test the above fuel parts?
More to follow.
Finalization:
Upon further inspection I have found a crack in the tubing of output port of the intercooler, and with the addition of the cracked secure tab of the MAF. I had replaced the tubing and used zip ties to secure the MAF (until I order a new MAF). Started the car, heard the sweet sound of the SC whine, and took it out to the highway. Amazing acceleration, and no hesitation whatsoever, like a new car all over again. I still plan to replace the items listed in previous post. She's at 120k's, so it's that time for some serious maintenance (water pump, thermostat, check valve, FPR, belts, and hoses)
Upon further inspection I have found a crack in the tubing of output port of the intercooler, and with the addition of the cracked secure tab of the MAF. I had replaced the tubing and used zip ties to secure the MAF (until I order a new MAF). Started the car, heard the sweet sound of the SC whine, and took it out to the highway. Amazing acceleration, and no hesitation whatsoever, like a new car all over again. I still plan to replace the items listed in previous post. She's at 120k's, so it's that time for some serious maintenance (water pump, thermostat, check valve, FPR, belts, and hoses)
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