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Was this valve moved for the post face lift (after 2000) models? I don't have these under my airbox, it looks like they're located between the engine and the firewall. I'm getting P0410 too, need to swap it out.
I have a 2002 and the check valve is on the other side of the engine. A recent post by livefreeordie explains how he recently changed his check valve. The pics look like the layout I have. See "Help Needed - Cold Start" thread.
 
2001 E320 Wagon - P0140/Carbon

First of all, I'm new to the forum. I've owned my 2001 E320 Wagon since 2002 and have over 163,000 miles on it - actually it's my wife's car. We're getting the P0140 error code and the dealer is telling us that the heads need to be removed and the carbon cleaned. I assume that they've checked all of the usual suspects to arrive at this conclusion. I'll check the valves and everything else before I commit to the recommended procedure.

I guess the head removal is a multi-day procedure. Has anyone gone this route? If so, can you provide any lessons-learned? . I'm thinking of doing the work myself but need a good manual. I've seen the Star DVD's but can't find them available anywhere. Any suggestions? What about special tools. Do I need anything that is not available at the local parts store? As for competence, I am an amateur auto restorer. I've rebuilt cars and bodies for approx 30 years - geeze has it been that long? I feel comfortable around engines but would welcome any advice - including don't do it yourself if that is the collective feeling.

Thanks
 
First of all, I'm new to the forum. I've owned my 2001 E320 Wagon since 2002 and have over 163,000 miles on it - actually it's my wife's car. We're getting the P0140 error code and the dealer is telling us that the heads need to be removed and the carbon cleaned.
Try posting this in the W210 forum. The 320 is the common engine there and there is a lot of expertise on that forum. But to me the dealers suggestion sounds a bit extreme - maybe he wants to make some extra money? :eek:
 
Mine is cut to just under .25 inch. Dremel tool, hack saw and elbow grease. Wrench was under $10. When I replaced mine the old valve was rusted and flaking debris. I took a shop vac and cleaned out the downstream intake hose to the TB. It was loaded with junk. About a month later got the MAF code , which I have to assume was caused by the garbage from the check valve. I cleaned the MAF a few times and it cleared the fault. Its been 4 years with no issues.
 
Found a Combination Super Thin Wrench - 24mm x 27mm presently listed as:
Regular Price: $7.67
Sale Price: $5.48​

Bare url: http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/V8T-812427.html

Features:
  • Specifically designed thinner than regular wrenches for use on thin nuts.
  • Made of high strength manganese alloy steel - heat treated and tempered to maximize strength.
  • Not for high torque applications.

Is the last "feature" likely to be a problem for this job?

UPS ground shipping to my address is $10.25. :(
 
Given the writeup at this page, it looks like the thin wrench above might not be up to the task. That same writeup, though, recommends the "Armstrong 28-034 27mm wrench." The 28-034, though is actually 1-1/16" (26.9875mm). Google finds several places selling it. Might be an option for those of us not able to take the bench grinder approach.

Update: Stanley has a similar wrench that is actually metric: Stanley Proto J3527M Metric Thin Sevice Wrench 27mm.
 
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