If this isn't too late, please consider blend-in color of your choice into the the layer BEFORE the last layer). In the final layer use just CLEAR epoxy. You can just sand the finish without clear coating. It will add tremendous depth to the color under. In fact, when CF hood is done, the top layer is often fiberglass, which is invisible itself once saturated with epoxy but gives the clear coat look and depth of CF under.
Thanks for the input. I'm actually doing this to put a duct in the hood without having to cut up my original. I'll get it painted the same color as the rest of the body.
You're welcome. Use a squeegee. It get distributes epoxy better than a roller and fewer air bubbles.
No matter what your purpose, you're probably making one of the 1st fiberglass hood for r170. I hope this is better than "take the headlight out and use the room for cold air intake." idea came from you before.
You're welcome. Use a squeegee. It get distributes epoxy better than a roller and fewer air bubbles.
No matter what your purpose, you're probably making one of the 1st fiberglass hood for r170. I hope this is better than "take the headlight out and use the room for cold air intake." idea came from you before.
Jerry
LMAO haha I forgot all about that idea!
Yeah, I've been fiberglassing for car audio (racks, sub boxes, kick panels, etc) for quite some time now. I've gotten pretty handy with a 2" brush. After about 20 minutes of distributing, the brush becomes very rubbery but still holds epoxy better than a squeegee. Just plant your index finger behind the bristles about half inch from the bottom and it has so much control it's unbelievable. Some people cut the bristles on the brush but if I do that, I might as well squeege it because I lose a lot of the bristle room that gave me the advantage to begin with.
I've actually built a few things for this car already. I'll post pics in a bit. I just finished the 4th layer and now it's drying. I'm gonna check it to see if it's sturdy enough to keep shape off the car so I can start reinforcing the bottom side. I'm skeptical though, might need another layer or two. We'll see when it hardens.
Hmm the slk hood hangs out, ur grill is set back, So you may have a prob with wind getting under and ripping it open, After having a hood come up on the motorway cant say it was much fun, So just make sure its strong enough round the catch, and the skin is fixed to the frame really well.
Here's some of the other stuff I have done. I would have cleaned my car a little bit if I would have known I would have been taking pictures today. But, just IMAGINE that the car was clean when I took these. haha.
The one not pictured is my speakers (I'll take pics next time the door panels are off). I made sealed enclosures inside the door. Focal utopia series in there. Before the enclosures they sounded tinny and hollow... probably because of the huge metal door, and these were made for sealed enclosures. Sounds tons better now.
I've seen talk of a carputer some people on this forum are working on. I'm interested in some of the stuff they've come up with, as mine became quite a pain although I'm pleased with the turnout now that it's done.
Oh, and that black carpet panel (i'll find grey matching somewhere... one project at a time though. black works for now) on the passenger side... there's a sub under that.
Have you thought about the underside reinforcement?
People don't recommend permanent foam core for hood due to heat. However, if you ever decide to use foam as tubular core, all you have to do is dissolve the foam core later with acetone. It dissolves most foam so fast. Only need to drill a couple small holes, use something like a glass syringe inject some acetone, foam just rush to vanish and flow out of the other hole
Have you thought about the underside reinforcement?
People don't recommend permanent foam core for hood due to heat. However, if you ever decide to use foam as tubular core, all you have to do is dissolve the foam core later with acetone. It dissolves most foam so fast. Only need to drill a couple small holes, use something like a glass syringe inject some acetone, foam just rush to vanish and flow out of the other hole
Jerry
I'm using strapping tape and metal screen as underside reinforcements. The strap/screen trick I learned while making sub boxes. The screen acts just like fiberglass, but it's like sheet metal when it's dry. I'm putting it between layers on the underside, so should be solid. And the strapping works the same way. Pretty flexible, has holes, and I just put it on the perimiter underneath and put a few layers of fiberglass over it and the holes bond and keep it all one peice. On sub boxes, after 4 or 5 layers with screen and strapping in between, I can jump an land on the box and it won't budge. Will make it a little heavier, but well worth it. And still significantly lighter than the original. Also, with the 4 bolt points (2 hinges, 1 arm, and hood latch) I'm using pre-drilled sheet metal to start with and then I'm fiberglassing around them. That way I'm screwing everything into metal.
Again, I really appreciate all the feedback on this. I want all the bases covered and I don't always think of everything!
Jerry
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