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Old 04-15-2007, 11:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 98 230SLK
Location: TN
Posts: 101
Window Limit Adjustment

There has been questions in the past about adjusting the window up limiter to keep the window from rolling up too far. The picture shows the location of the up limiter. The (marked in red) nut is attaches to an L bracket that contacts the lower stop lip on the window lift . The problem is that the L bracket will become bent and on longer contact the window bracket. If this is the case the L bracket must be removed and reshaped to contact the window stop. Once the L bracket is back the correct shape reise the window to the proper hight and tighten down the the adjustment nut. Note: If you going to put any parts of your body inside the door where the window regulator runs up and down, disconect the battery first.
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Last edited by godaddy : 04-15-2007 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 11-16-2007, 01:45 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Date registered: Oct 2006
Vehicle: Two 1998 SLK230s, 2003 SLK230 SE
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 450
Reattach limit brackets to window

Further to the brackets on the door frame (there are two), there is a steel bracket glued to the bottom of the window that strikes the bracket on the door frame. This is near the front of the door.
With the window down, the bracket is directly behind the bass speaker in the door.
After nine years, the glue finally gave way and the bracket fell off and was found in the bottom of the door.
Symptom - door won't close because the window winds up too high and fouls the rubbers. The bracket on the far end of the door strikes the window lifting frame and luckily stopped the window coming out altogether.
Solution - take off the door panel (see SLK Home Page under disassembly - not complete though as there are a few more cover plates to remove.
Remove the speaker. Retrieve the bracket from inside the door. Wind down the window (keep anatomy outside of the door frame or you will lose bits of you).
Reglue using contact adhesive - anything that binds glass to metal. I didn't bother removing the green glue as it seemed well bonded. For the Aussies, I used Tarzan's Grip glue in generous amounts. Time will tell if it holds.
Pictures below.
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File Type: jpg EOS400D_20071116_0777.JPG (50.4 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg EOS400D_20071116_0778.JPG (72.6 KB, 16 views)
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Old 07-03-2008, 01:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Date registered: Feb 2006
Vehicle: SLK 230 -98
Location: Trollhättan, Sweden
Posts: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by godaddy View Post
There has been questions in the past about adjusting the window up limiter to keep the window from rolling up too far. The picture shows the location of the up limiter. The (marked in red) nut is attaches to an L bracket that contacts the lower stop lip on the window lift . The problem is that the L bracket will become bent and on longer contact the window bracket. If this is the case the L bracket must be removed and reshaped to contact the window stop. Once the L bracket is back the correct shape reise the window to the proper hight and tighten down the the adjustment nut. Note: If you going to put any parts of your body inside the door where the window regulator runs up and down, disconect the battery first.
I have the problem with the window raising to high.

I dissassembled the door panel and looked at the L-shape bracket and the glued on bracket. The glued on is still in place and lookes allright. The L-shaped one also looked fairly OK but they miss eachother. Took down the L-bracket and reshaped it. As I pull the windows up the entire inside door trim twists from the torque of the electric motor. It worked though... for a while... As I had put the door panel back the same problem occured - the window goes to high. Can the entire innter door trim (the sheet metal part) be stiffend? Or any other suggestions?
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Old 09-06-2008, 02:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2008
Vehicle: 1999 SLK 230
Posts: 2
Smile Window limiter fix

Thanks for the tip. The exact same thing happened to me - driver's side window came up too far at front, fouling rubber around door and causing door not to shut properly. When I took the door panel off and looked inside, there was the part as described, lying behind the speaker. I glued it back with epoxy resin and was good to go.
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