Window Limit Adjustment

[godaddy]

There has been questions in the past about adjusting the window up limiter to keep the window from rolling up too far. The picture shows the location of the up limiter. The (marked in red) nut is attaches to an L bracket that contacts the lower stop lip on the window lift . The problem is that the L bracket will become bent and on longer contact the window bracket. If this is the case the L bracket must be removed and reshaped to contact the window stop. Once the L bracket is back the correct shape reise the window to the proper hight and tighten down the the adjustment nut. Note: If you going to put any parts of your body inside the door where the window regulator runs up and down, disconect the battery first.

[oztds]

Further to the brackets on the door frame (there are two), there is a steel bracket glued to the bottom of the window that strikes the bracket on the door frame. This is near the front of the door.
With the window down, the bracket is directly behind the bass speaker in the door.
After nine years, the glue finally gave way and the bracket fell off and was found in the bottom of the door.
Symptom - door won't close because the window winds up too high and fouls the rubbers. The bracket on the far end of the door strikes the window lifting frame and luckily stopped the window coming out altogether.
Solution - take off the door panel (see SLK Home Page under disassembly - not complete though as there are a few more cover plates to remove.
Remove the speaker. Retrieve the bracket from inside the door. Wind down the window (keep anatomy outside of the door frame or you will lose bits of you).
Reglue using contact adhesive - anything that binds glass to metal. I didn't bother removing the green glue as it seemed well bonded. For the Aussies, I used Tarzan's Grip glue in generous amounts. Time will tell if it holds.
Pictures below.

[dholm76]

Originally Posted by godaddy

There has been questions in the past about adjusting the window up limiter to keep the window from rolling up too far. The picture shows the location of the up limiter. The (marked in red) nut is attaches to an L bracket that contacts the lower stop lip on the window lift . The problem is that the L bracket will become bent and on longer contact the window bracket. If this is the case the L bracket must be removed and reshaped to contact the window stop. Once the L bracket is back the correct shape reise the window to the proper hight and tighten down the the adjustment nut. Note: If you going to put any parts of your body inside the door where the window regulator runs up and down, disconect the battery first.

I have the problem with the window raising to high.

I dissassembled the door panel and looked at the L-shape bracket and the glued on bracket. The glued on is still in place and lookes allright. The L-shaped one also looked fairly OK but they miss eachother. Took down the L-bracket and reshaped it. As I pull the windows up the entire inside door trim twists from the torque of the electric motor. It worked though... for a while... As I had put the door panel back the same problem occured - the window goes to high. Can the entire innter door trim (the sheet metal part) be stiffend? Or any other suggestions?

[boostace]

Thanks for the tip. The exact same thing happened to me - driver's side window came up too far at front, fouling rubber around door and causing door not to shut properly. When I took the door panel off and looked inside, there was the part as described, lying behind the speaker. I glued it back with epoxy resin and was good to go.

---

Would you believe the EXACT same thing happened to the passenger two weeks later...!? Same fix...

[wildhorse]

I have a different problem with the driver's side window getting stuck at the halfway point when trying to lower it. I asked a few weeks ago in a thread about what the problem could be and how to fix it, but I didn't get any responses.

I'm thinking that I'll just go ahead and take the door panel off, but I'm wondering why I need to disconnect the battery first. I've never had to do that when working on other cars, but maybe I should have. What is the issue that calls for disconnecting the battery?

Also, I would GREATLY appreciate any help on fixing the window problem that I have.

Thank you.

[livefreeordie]

Disconnecting the battery will prevent shock, or shorting something out plus there is an airbag in the door, hate to see that go off

[Drewby230]

J.B. Weld for the win!
Holding strong and has been for awhile.
=]

[Hot_Pasta]

Originally Posted by livefreeordie

Disconnecting the battery will prevent shock, or shorting something out plus there is an airbag in the door, hate to see that go off

this smal thingy shudn't be called airbag I would have never tought it was so small to be honest



These are huge airbags !



ROFLMAO

[livefreeordie]

LOl, oops thats going to cost some money
I like the fun bags in the second pix

[jbrown1843]

Very nice thread had the same problems start this week, door not closing, window going up, down sometimes, stopping. I took the drivers side door panel off today and yep the metal tab was laying in the bottom of the door. I reattached with Gorilla glue (says it bonds with metal and glass). Used regular spray adhesive to put the white plastic dust liner back on the metal door skin interior. I will post photos of the other minor trim items that you need to take loose that are not show in the door panel disassembly thread. I also found a loose 10mm bolt that holds some of the hardware on the door skin, so a double bonus no more unknown rattle. I will also post a photo of the door latch disassembly that you need to do to physically get the leather door trim away from the metal door skin.