Vehicle: 1998 SLK230; 2000 Cadillac Catera; 1997 Nissan 200SX SE
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 32
Have a strange problem
just upgraded to aftermarket wheels 18" by 8 I belive. OK here's the problem it makes a strange clicking noise when you drive it. It clicks from the right rear i was told. Driveability is fine no shakes, rattles,and performance isn't hindered. just makes this "clicking" noise that varies with acceration. Faster you go louder it gets. I can tell you what it's not. Not a CV joint, not the diff., not the splashguard or nd balance weights on rim, or dust shield on break assembaly. I had 3 mechanics look at it after I looked at it, they were stumped to. They were not Dealership mechanics. One suggested it might be the differance in bolt lenghth that came with the aftermarket wheels. I tried to put the stock bolts back in but the car wouldn't move. I didn't want to break anything so I went back to the shorter bolts. Any ideas for me?!
I'd say you're on the right track by changing bolts. If you use too long of a bolt you'll hit the emergency brake gear. The bolts you had on there were probably just touching it as you drove, making the clicking sound. It's extremely important to use the right length bolt on these cars.
Some folks have horror stories of AAA or another towing operator swapping a flat tire and putting the wrong bolt on causing the wheel to lock up or braking the emergency brake.
Vehicle: 1998 SLK230; 2000 Cadillac Catera; 1997 Nissan 200SX SE
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 32
Well i solved the problem. I found out through reading more about how you can rub the parking break if bolts are to long. Well since mine seemingly were just long enuff to do the wole clicking thing, I got to thinking. (Yea I solved my problem). This is what I did. I figured well you need a shorter bolt,simple. I jimmy rigged it. I went to home depot and settled on some lock washers (1.50 total). My rational was this since it'll "make the bolt shorter" it'll lock it as to not come out. Use 100lbs instead of 85 to compinsate for the washer and it worked no more clicking. Yes i drove it around and rechecked and it seems good. All I can say is thank you other members. I save a ton of money not haveing to go to the stealership like I usally do.
Now youve learnt that lesson. Next lesson.
Seat of bolt is normally curved. Not a good place for lockwashers. Torque is torque. Appling more is more.
You need to IMO
1. Get shorter bolts
2. Cut the ends off yours (hacksaw and emery belt, paint the end, lube threads)
3. Remove washers and torque correctly.
Vehicle: 2002 SLK 32 AMG, bone stock. 1987 190E 2.3-16 Valve, NOT bone stock...
Location: Near Washington, DC
Posts: 8,420
Go back to the people you bought your wheels from, and ask them why they didn't give you the correct bolts for these new wheels.
This is a VERY well known problem and most if not all wheel companies supply the correct bolts for the installation. The bolts are probably laying in the back room somewhere, and no one knows what they are for......
DO NOT overtighten the lug bolts, the spec'd torque is there for a reason, you can actually split a wheel hub.
Me thinks that the use of LOCK washers in this application might just have created stress or fracture points within the wheel bolt hole itself. The LOCK washer would groove itself into the unhardened aluminum of the bolt seat. I am sure the excessive torque on the wheel bolt helped force the LOCK washer into the relatively soft aluminum surface. It would be a shame if the entire center of the wheel cracked and broke out while driving. Dont know if magnaflux or X-ray would pick up the stress crack. Therefore, the wheel might be ruined or dangerous. Also, as Bruce said, at the least, the bolts simply need to be shortened. But I would not overlook the stress/crack fracture point on the wheels.
Vehicle: 1998 SLK230; 2000 Cadillac Catera; 1997 Nissan 200SX SE
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 32
Yea after sitting over night and reading the response from you guys. Your right, it's a bit on the retarded side. I went down to Pepboys and used their lil' bolt measureing station and found the bolts that came with the wheels were off by a bit. The ones I got with the wheels were 1.1 and I need .93 so I just bought a whole new set up for the rear and it works great. So yea all the proper bolts are in and tq to spec. I could have called the place where i bought the rims but I hate hassels and I'm too impatient to waite for new hardware to come in the mail. When I just spent 35.00 and had problem fixed in about an hour.
if you want the correct bolts for this application go to http://www.radusadirect.com/c=DCLbWMUzjJW51ibcSCnEoAJF0/ Home and they will have what you are looking for. Take off the locks washers PLEASE! Just get a shorter bolt. I might be the guy in the car next to you when the wheel flies off
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